Several people have asked me to make this so, here goes:
First a WARNING
: If you are not mechanically inclined, this is not for you. I will do my best to give clear instructions, but there is always something that will be missed. There are a lot of parts in this gun. This is a complete disassemble. Read the whole thing first and only go as far as you feel comfortable. I am not a gunsmith, I do not work for Browning. I'm just a guy who likes to tinker with stuff and help folks. Do this at your own risk.
Now to the good part...
First I'd like to point out the names of certain parts. This way we're all on the same page.
These numbers are taken right out of Browning's Parts List so, they are the same terms that Browning would use.
20 Firing Pin Cross Pin
38 Inertia Mass
40 Locking Cam
41 Locking Cam Screw
44 Locking Pin Left (the right one is #45)
49 Rocker Pin
54 Sear Link
67 Striker Left (the right one is #70)
69 Striker Nut
71 Striker Spring
76 Top Lever
81 Top Lever Spring
82 Top Lever Spring Stop
90 Trigger Link
I forgot to number it, but the part left of #81 and above #41 is the Trigger Disconnector (#87). (Yes, we will be talking about this part.)
2 Cocking Lever Left
3 Cocking Lever Right
4 Cocking Link
44 Locking Pin Left
45 Locking Pin Right
77 Top Lever Disconnector (sorry, this one isn't numbered either. Yes, it's supposed to be at a slight angle.)
Now that we've identified the parts, let's start taking her apart:
With the chambers empty, close the gun and pull the trigger twice to release the strikers. Take off the forearm and barrels. Set them aside where they won't be in the way.
Remove the recoil pad:
Remove the stock:
There are two different stock bolts. One is a hex head and one is slotted. Look down inside the stock and you will see it. If it's slotted, get out a big flat head driver. My stock takes a 6mm Allen, but it is not the original stock bolt. The adjustable comb required a modification to the stock so, my bolt is unique.
If you are having trouble at this point, STOP! This is not for you. Take it to a gun smith. You can bring it to my house and I'll do it for you, but I think air fare will be excessive.
This is what your receiver should look like from the right side. If it doesn't look like this STOP! You don't have a Cynergy and this is not for you!
Push the Top Lever to the right, press in the Top Lever Disconnector and let the Top Lever come to the middle. This releases pressure on the Rockers.
Allow me to take a moment to describe how some of this works. When the Top Lever is moved to open the gun, the Trigger Disconnector presses back on the rockers at the top: (see point A)
This in turn puts pressure on the Striker at the bottom. In this position, the Rockers will be very difficult to remove due to that pressure from the Striker.
If the Top Lever is brought back to center, it relieves that pressure:
Now the only pressure on the Rockers is the Firing Pin Spring. This is very light and easily overcome.
OK, back to the disassembly. Here's the same pic again so you don't have to scroll up:
The Rockers have to come out in order to remove anything. The dental tool is pointing to the "e" clip on the Rocker Pin (#49). This has to come off first then the pin is driven out right to left. Be very careful with this clip. It will
go rocketing into the air. It's small and hard to find. Don't ask me how I know.
Once removed, drift the pin out with a punch. The pin is knurled on the left side so, it must come out on the left. As the pin is driven out, the punch will retain the Rockers. As the punch is removed, take the Rockers out gently. Mark each one with the side it came from.!!!WARNING!!!-----!!!WARNING!!!
The Rockers have the same part number, they look the same to the naked eye, and they will interchange. HOWEVER, they must not be swapped. They are hand fitted to each side. They are part of the trigger sear. They might work if swapped, but it is not recommended!!!!WARNING!!!-----!!!WARNING!!!
With the Rockers removed, there is access to the Firing Pins. To get the Firing pins out, drift out the Firing Pin Cross Pin (#20). This pin is also knurled on the left side. Drift it out right to left. The Firing Pins and Springs will now drop out easily. If all you wanted to do was clean/replace the Firing Pins, stop here. Reverse what you just did to put it all back together. If you want a more thorough clean, continue, but with care.
Now the Strikers, Striker Springs, Cocking Levers and Cocking Links can be removed.
Take out the Cotter Pin:
Once the cotter pin is out, the castle nut will spin off easily. Remove the Striker and Striker Spring. CAUTION
When the Striker comes out the Sear Link will be free to pivot down. There is a tiny little spring near the end, on the top, the Sear Spring (#56 not pictured). It probably won't come out, but if you lose it and don't notice it, the gun will not work. CAUTION
The Cocking Rod is now loose. Push it forward and wiggle it a little and the Cocking lever will separate from it and both will come out. The Cocking Rod comes out the front. When the Cocking Link is re-installed, just turn the castle nut down as far as it will go with your fingers. Then back it off until the first slot lines up with the hole for the new cotter pin.
This is why the Cocking rods and Cocking Levers should come out:
All the places pointed to in this pic will collect dirt. You cannot get to these points unless you take these parts out. The Locking Pins don't collect as much dirt due to a smaller surface area.This next section is all or nothing. If you are not comfortable working with small parts and springs, stop now and reassemble in reverse order.
The next part to take out should be the Locking Pins. The right one will come out as soon as the retaining screw is removed. In order to get the left out, the Locking Cam (#40) must come out. So, remove the Locking Cam Screw (#41). With the cam out, the Left Lock Pin will now come out. !!!WARNING!!!-----!!!WARNING!!!
The Locking Cam Screw has a specialized curved washer near the head, the Top Lever Retainer (#78).
This washer will interfere with the upper Firing Pin (#21) if not installed properly. When it is reinstalled, push on the Firing Pin. The Firing Pin should move freely. If it doesn't move freely, take the Locking Cam Screw back out and turn the Top Lever Retainer 180° and reinstall.
Remove the retaining screw for the Top Lever Spring Stop and lift it out. Of course you'll need to mind the Top Lever Spring as it will try to launch. Now the Trigger Disconnector is ready to fall out; don't let it. Pay attention to how it goes in. If you don't, it will be a mind teaser trying to replace it.
Now that you're this far, the Top Lever might as well come out. It should just lift straight out the top. CAUTION
There is a tiny little spring in there, The Top Lever Retaining Spring, along with a little part, the Top Lever Retaining Plunger. If you don't cover this with your hand, it will launch into the Black Hole of missing parts never to be seen again! CAUTION
The only things left of any significance are the Sear Links. They come out easily by removing the screw. Make sure you don't lose the Sear Spring I told you about.
The receiver should now look like this:
If it doesn't look like a lot of parts, please make an appointment with a doctor because you're not getting enough oxygen.
Go after it with your favorite cleaner, a rag and some Q-Tips. Be sure not to leave any fine cotton hairs behind.
Now put it back together in reverse order. Some re-assembly notes:
The Cocking Levers are unique. Notice the curved surface at the bottom. It must go toward the outside. It is possible to install them on the wrong side. The gun won't work if you do. They are also a bugger to get back out if you get them in wrong. Don't ask how I know.
Did you pay attention to how the Trigger Disconnector went in? Hint, the little roll pin goes toward the front.
Remember to install the Firing Pin Cross Pin and the Rocker Pin from the left.
Double check the movement of the upper Firing Pin to ensure the Top Lever Retainer was installed correctly.
Did you remember to mark the Rockers left and right?
This particular gun has 10,437 rounds through it at the time of this posting. I've used it for Trap, Skeet, Sporting Clays, Bunker Trap and even some random stuff in the desert. The rounds were a mix of reloads and factory ammo. From 24grams to 1 1/8oz and 1100FPS to 1350FPS. As you can see it wasn't really dirty. The only parts I replaced were the two cotter pins which cannot be re-used. The springs were all clean and strong, and the firing pins were clean with no pitting.
I'm trying to think if I've missed anything. Honestly, I've been at this for a few hours and can't see the forest for the trees. Please review it and let me know if there are any errors or omissions. Yes, there are still parts in the receiver after you have everything out. I just don't see the value in taking that stuff out.
This is about a two hour process. That includes disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly. After the first time, it should be much faster. Even so, take your time. If this is rushed I guarantee something will not go right.
I hope this was helpful.