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 Post subject: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 10:07 pm 
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Several people have asked me to make this so, here goes:

First a WARNING: If you are not mechanically inclined, this is not for you. I will do my best to give clear instructions, but there is always something that will be missed. There are a lot of parts in this gun. This is a complete disassemble. Read the whole thing first and only go as far as you feel comfortable. I am not a gunsmith, I do not work for Browning. I'm just a guy who likes to tinker with stuff and help folks. Do this at your own risk.

Now to the good part...

First I'd like to point out the names of certain parts. This way we're all on the same page.
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These numbers are taken right out of Browning's Parts List so, they are the same terms that Browning would use.
20 Firing Pin Cross Pin
38 Inertia Mass
40 Locking Cam
41 Locking Cam Screw
44 Locking Pin Left (the right one is #45)
48 Rocker
49 Rocker Pin
54 Sear Link
67 Striker Left (the right one is #70)
69 Striker Nut
71 Striker Spring
76 Top Lever
81 Top Lever Spring
82 Top Lever Spring Stop
90 Trigger Link
I forgot to number it, but the part left of #81 and above #41 is the Trigger Disconnector (#87). (Yes, we will be talking about this part.)

Image
2 Cocking Lever Left
3 Cocking Lever Right
4 Cocking Link
44 Locking Pin Left
45 Locking Pin Right

Image
77 Top Lever Disconnector (sorry, this one isn't numbered either. Yes, it's supposed to be at a slight angle.)

Now that we've identified the parts, let's start taking her apart:

With the chambers empty, close the gun and pull the trigger twice to release the strikers. Take off the forearm and barrels. Set them aside where they won't be in the way.

Remove the recoil pad:
Image
Remove the stock:
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There are two different stock bolts. One is a hex head and one is slotted. Look down inside the stock and you will see it. If it's slotted, get out a big flat head driver. My stock takes a 6mm Allen, but it is not the original stock bolt. The adjustable comb required a modification to the stock so, my bolt is unique.

If you are having trouble at this point, STOP! This is not for you. Take it to a gun smith. You can bring it to my house and I'll do it for you, but I think air fare will be excessive. :wink:

This is what your receiver should look like from the right side. If it doesn't look like this STOP! You don't have a Cynergy and this is not for you! :wink:
Image
Push the Top Lever to the right, press in the Top Lever Disconnector and let the Top Lever come to the middle. This releases pressure on the Rockers.

Allow me to take a moment to describe how some of this works. When the Top Lever is moved to open the gun, the Trigger Disconnector presses back on the rockers at the top: (see point A)
Image
This in turn puts pressure on the Striker at the bottom. In this position, the Rockers will be very difficult to remove due to that pressure from the Striker.

If the Top Lever is brought back to center, it relieves that pressure:
Image
Now the only pressure on the Rockers is the Firing Pin Spring. This is very light and easily overcome.

OK, back to the disassembly. Here's the same pic again so you don't have to scroll up:
Image
The Rockers have to come out in order to remove anything. The dental tool is pointing to the "e" clip on the Rocker Pin (#49). This has to come off first then the pin is driven out right to left. Be very careful with this clip. It will go rocketing into the air. It's small and hard to find. Don't ask me how I know. :lol:

Once removed, drift the pin out with a punch. The pin is knurled on the left side so, it must come out on the left. As the pin is driven out, the punch will retain the Rockers. As the punch is removed, take the Rockers out gently. Mark each one with the side it came from.

!!!WARNING!!!-----!!!WARNING!!!
The Rockers have the same part number, they look the same to the naked eye, and they will interchange. HOWEVER, they must not be swapped. They are hand fitted to each side. They are part of the trigger sear. They might work if swapped, but it is not recommended!
!!!WARNING!!!-----!!!WARNING!!!

With the Rockers removed, there is access to the Firing Pins. To get the Firing pins out, drift out the Firing Pin Cross Pin (#20). This pin is also knurled on the left side. Drift it out right to left. The Firing Pins and Springs will now drop out easily.

If all you wanted to do was clean/replace the Firing Pins, stop here. Reverse what you just did to put it all back together. If you want a more thorough clean, continue, but with care.

Now the Strikers, Striker Springs, Cocking Levers and Cocking Links can be removed.

Take out the Cotter Pin:
Image
Once the cotter pin is out, the castle nut will spin off easily. Remove the Striker and Striker Spring.
CAUTION When the Striker comes out the Sear Link will be free to pivot down. There is a tiny little spring near the end, on the top, the Sear Spring (#56 not pictured). It probably won't come out, but if you lose it and don't notice it, the gun will not work. CAUTION
The Cocking Rod is now loose. Push it forward and wiggle it a little and the Cocking lever will separate from it and both will come out. The Cocking Rod comes out the front. When the Cocking Link is re-installed, just turn the castle nut down as far as it will go with your fingers. Then back it off until the first slot lines up with the hole for the new cotter pin.

This is why the Cocking rods and Cocking Levers should come out:
Image
All the places pointed to in this pic will collect dirt. You cannot get to these points unless you take these parts out. The Locking Pins don't collect as much dirt due to a smaller surface area.

This next section is all or nothing. If you are not comfortable working with small parts and springs, stop now and reassemble in reverse order.

The next part to take out should be the Locking Pins. The right one will come out as soon as the retaining screw is removed. In order to get the left out, the Locking Cam (#40) must come out. So, remove the Locking Cam Screw (#41). With the cam out, the Left Lock Pin will now come out.

!!!WARNING!!!-----!!!WARNING!!!
The Locking Cam Screw has a specialized curved washer near the head, the Top Lever Retainer (#78).
Image
This washer will interfere with the upper Firing Pin (#21) if not installed properly. When it is reinstalled, push on the Firing Pin. The Firing Pin should move freely. If it doesn't move freely, take the Locking Cam Screw back out and turn the Top Lever Retainer 180° and reinstall.


Remove the retaining screw for the Top Lever Spring Stop and lift it out. Of course you'll need to mind the Top Lever Spring as it will try to launch. Now the Trigger Disconnector is ready to fall out; don't let it. Pay attention to how it goes in. If you don't, it will be a mind teaser trying to replace it.

Now that you're this far, the Top Lever might as well come out. It should just lift straight out the top. CAUTION There is a tiny little spring in there, The Top Lever Retaining Spring, along with a little part, the Top Lever Retaining Plunger. If you don't cover this with your hand, it will launch into the Black Hole of missing parts never to be seen again! CAUTION

The only things left of any significance are the Sear Links. They come out easily by removing the screw. Make sure you don't lose the Sear Spring I told you about.

The receiver should now look like this:
Image
If it doesn't look like a lot of parts, please make an appointment with a doctor because you're not getting enough oxygen.

Go after it with your favorite cleaner, a rag and some Q-Tips. Be sure not to leave any fine cotton hairs behind.

Now put it back together in reverse order. Some re-assembly notes:
The Cocking Levers are unique. Notice the curved surface at the bottom. It must go toward the outside. It is possible to install them on the wrong side. The gun won't work if you do. They are also a bugger to get back out if you get them in wrong. Don't ask how I know. :roll:

Did you pay attention to how the Trigger Disconnector went in? Hint, the little roll pin goes toward the front.

Remember to install the Firing Pin Cross Pin and the Rocker Pin from the left.

Double check the movement of the upper Firing Pin to ensure the Top Lever Retainer was installed correctly.

Did you remember to mark the Rockers left and right?



This particular gun has 10,437 rounds through it at the time of this posting. I've used it for Trap, Skeet, Sporting Clays, Bunker Trap and even some random stuff in the desert. The rounds were a mix of reloads and factory ammo. From 24grams to 1 1/8oz and 1100FPS to 1350FPS. As you can see it wasn't really dirty. The only parts I replaced were the two cotter pins which cannot be re-used. The springs were all clean and strong, and the firing pins were clean with no pitting.



I'm trying to think if I've missed anything. Honestly, I've been at this for a few hours and can't see the forest for the trees. Please review it and let me know if there are any errors or omissions. Yes, there are still parts in the receiver after you have everything out. I just don't see the value in taking that stuff out.

This is about a two hour process. That includes disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly. After the first time, it should be much faster. Even so, take your time. If this is rushed I guarantee something will not go right.

I hope this was helpful.

EDIT 7 Jul 2017: I've had to drop Photobucket and go with a different service. If the pictures do not display properly, let me know.



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Last edited by Rastoff on Fri Jul 07, 2017 4:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:58 am 
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Thanks, Well Done!


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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 1:34 pm 
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Nice job! There is a lot of work getting that done, Not the actual dis-asembly, but the documentation. Quite impressive.

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 2:51 pm 
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Thanks Curly. Yes, there is a lot of work involved. It took two days to get it done. The first day was spent taking it apart, taking photos and reassembling. I spent about 3 hours the first day. The second day was spent editing the photos and writing the article. This took about 4 or 5 hours.

I found out early on that I couldn't do it the way I wanted. I wanted to take a part off, then take a pic. That would have at least doubled the time spent on tear down. So, I took several pictures along the way and just talked to them in the narrative.

I really enjoy doing things like this so, it was fun for me. I just hope it helps someone.

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 2:58 pm 
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Very helpful. Indeed, it helped to reassure me that I am probably insufficiently mechanically apt to do this myself!

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 3:16 pm 
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Awsome and Thank You. I will for sure bookmark this in case I ever get another cynergy.


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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:46 pm 
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Thanks fellas.

RPRNY,
You can probably do it. Just take your time. I honestly believe if you can hold a screwdriver, you can do this. It just requires a little patience and attention to detail. Isn't that what we do as shooters anyway?

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:01 am 
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Doug that was a very nice post. It is a keeper. I sent it to a friend that took his Cynergy apart and couldn't get it back together right. He said after he got your post it took less the five minuets and he was back up and running. Great got.
John

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:19 pm 
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Great write up! I stripped my cynergy down all the way and even a little further than the right up (the trigger drops out with only two pins that almost fall out).
A couple of notes I might add...
1. There are three parts to the top lever retainer.I think you explained this but, it was a little vague and I thought there were only two parts. Two plungers and a spring, make sure you have both plungers. One will be longer than the other and goes into the receiver first. The spring goes into the lever as well as the second plunger upon reassembly. The shorter plunger shot out on me and I didn't see it but, I did catch the spring. So upon reassembly I had a hell of a time trying to figure out how the one plunger and spring was supposed to work. Took me quite a while to figure out there are three pieces!

2. I kind of knew this instinctively but it might not be apartment to someone out there... References to the left/right hand side are made as if you are shouldering the gun. Same goes for front or back. Permanent marker is great for marking parts that are for the left or right. If you do happen to mix up your rockers, they should have wear marks on them that mate up with the firing pins. This is of course if your gun has been shot enough to form these marks.

3. Pay attention to spring orientation. The striker springs can be installed backwards. You want the looser coils towards the threaded end of the cocking link. Tighter coils towards the front of the gun.

4. Both locking pins can be removed without any dissembling anything but the receiver from the stock. Simply push the top lever to right and let it lock in place to remove the left locking pin. It will be a little tight but there is enough room to wiggle it out and back in without removing the locking cam and locking cam screw.

5. Make sure the striker nut cotter pin is bent enough to clear the stock. I left mine bent at an angle and they hung on the leading edge of the stock. Not sure if this is a problem with the synthetic stocks but, I could imagine someone scratching or dinging their wood stock if they weren't paying attention (as I almost did).

6. Last but certainly not least....Have a good open workspace to do this. I used two small bowls to keep parts in. Left side parts go in the bowl on the left side of the table and right side parts in the bowl I kept on the right side of the table. It makes keeping up with parts nice and easy. A magnetic part tray would be ideal if you have them. A nice work light/lamp will make things much easier. I spent quite a bit of time trying to find every last bit of dirt with a flashlight in my mouth, the receiver in my hand and a q-tip in the other. Punches would have really helped but a nice 16d common nail works well. I like to drive it into a hard surface to round the point a little so it doesn't leave marks on the pins.

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Last edited by Rubicon_Joey on Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:46 pm 
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OUTSTANDING INFO........Rastoff/Rubicon !!!! Just bought a second hand Cynergy that needs a good "internal"..........Your post just helped tremendously !!! Thanks for your effort !!!..............Cheecho1960

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:08 pm 
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What a GREAT thread! Thanks Rastoff for taking to time to post this information.

Jb


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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:46 pm 
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Rastoff, I am not a Browning man, but I know good documentation when I see it. You did a great job with both the writing and the photos. I am very impressed with the pics, because I have tried and could not do that well. What kind of camera and lighting did you use, and how did you hold your receiver and camera still while composing the shot?

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 12:19 pm 
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Rob Robertson wrote:
Thanks, Well Done!


Great job; I enjoyed it, even though I don't own a Cynergy. {hs#

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 1:51 pm 
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I was going to award this the "thread of the month", then I saw it was first posted July 2011. Still, one of the best ever. Should be a sticky.


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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:28 pm 
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Seamus O'Caiside wrote:
Rastoff, I am not a Browning man, but I know good documentation when I see it. You did a great job with both the writing and the photos. I am very impressed with the pics, because I have tried and could not do that well. What kind of camera and lighting did you use, and how did you hold your receiver and camera still while composing the shot?
Thanks Seamus. That's high praise coming from you.

I believe I used this setup to get those pics:
Image

However, I have upgraded to a Nikon D5100 and a better tripod. I've learned that you can get the compact fluorescent bulbs in a "cool white" light. They make for great color when taking pics indoors.

I'm still struggling with some of the details and have to make corrections in Photoshop. My next purchase is a good flash.

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 3:46 pm 
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This should be a sticky. Well done!!


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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:06 pm 
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Tron wrote:
What a GREAT thread! Thanks Rastoff for taking to time to post this information.

Jb

BTW..........Excellent job on that adjustable comb Tron !! Heard a lot a lot of good things about your work...........you may have a Cynergy coming your way for same !!

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:28 am 
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cheecho1960 wrote:
BTW..........Excellent job on that adjustable comb Tron !! Heard a lot a lot of good things about your work...........you may have a Cynergy coming your way for same !!
I couldn't agree more. The comb he did for my Cynergy is fantastic. Not only that, but he turned it around in less than a week.

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:22 pm 
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Rastoff wrote:
cheecho1960 wrote:
BTW..........Excellent job on that adjustable comb Tron !! Heard a lot a lot of good things about your work...........you may have a Cynergy coming your way for same !!
I couldn't agree more. The comb he did for my Cynergy is fantastic. Not only that, but he turned it around in less than a week.

Less than a week ?? More good news !! Thx Rastoff ! BTW..........What are the key areas to be greased on the Cynergy ??? Thx again !

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 Post subject: Re: Cynergy- Complete Receiver Tear Down w/Pics
PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:48 pm 
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Should be a stickie. I did notice that the last picture was taken in 2011, and no picture yet of it reassembled. :) More than I am willing to tackle. Mark



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