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 Post subject: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 5:24 pm 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:01 pm
Posts: 207
Location: Central PA
I have an O/U that the solder has failed and about half the rib is loose. Are there any repairs I can make to avoid rebluing of the barrels? Can epoxy be used to hold it on? If so what kind? Or is there a solder that can be used to hold it without the need to reblue?




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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:10 pm
Posts: 4830
I would think, to do it right, you would need to re-blue.. Bushrod


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:26 am 
Utility Grade

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:19 am
Posts: 8
Location: North Texas
Dave,
I assume you are talking about the 'top' rib and not the center rib.

I recently went through the same thing with my Browning Lightning 20 gauge. After 40 years the top rib came partially un-soldered. After much research and conversation, I took it to a local gun shop and had it repaired. No re-blue was required and the guy did a beautiful job. Cost $150.00.

When I inquired about using epoxy he said "If you do that and it fails, don't bring it to me to fix".
Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 11:59 am 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:01 pm
Posts: 207
Location: Central PA
Thanks Bill!
I kind of had the same feeling about the epoxy route.
Can you tell me if he removed the entire rib and resoldered the whole thing or just resoldered the loose part?
It is the top rib and is loose about half way.
I do solder and weld etc. and am considering tackling this project myself, just trying to get a feel for whether I want to do it or not.


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:19 am
Posts: 8
Location: North Texas
Dave,
I don't know how he did it but it looks great and has held up to quite a few rounds of skeet.

My opinion is that if you are skilled at that sort of thing it should be easy to do. The big questions are.....what kind of solder to use and how hot can you get it without ruining the temper in the barrel steel and/or melting the solder between the barrels and the center rib. I guess that's why these good gunsmiths get the big bucks.
Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:16 am 
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When a rib is loose, it can often be resoldered without hurting the blue. To do this you must first clean the solder joint by getting some steel wool or a scraper on both sides of the joint and carefully cleaning it as well as possible without permanently bending the loose rib. When this is done, the joint is "painted" with English solder. This is a solder paste made up of flux mixed with powdered tin and powdered lead. The rib is then tied tightly in position using wire. Wipe off all of the excess solder and heat the joint until the solder has melted.....let it cool and clean the joint (carefully) with a wire wheel on your bench grinder. At this point, it is IMPORTANT to clean the newly soldered joint with baking soda and warm water in order to prevent after rust. You might want to touch up the blue in the area of the joint with OxphoBlue cream when you are finished. Before using this "cold" blue, I like to warm the area with a propane torch.....being careful not to reach the melting point of solder.


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:19 am
Posts: 8
Location: North Texas
Mike,
Your comments are very much appreciated. I have spent a lot of mental energy wondering how this was done.
Thanks,
Bill


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 5:22 pm 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:01 pm
Posts: 207
Location: Central PA
Mike, thanks for the help! Does the old solder need to be removed first? I can see a slight ridge of old solder as I push the rib to the side. It looks porous, could have been an old repair? To remove the old solder I planned on using a "solder sucker". Real tool used in electronic board repair. Basically a vaccum pulling heated solder from tight small places. I spoke to Brownells tech dept. and they recommended Hi Force 44 ribbon solder .015 thick. It melts @475 deg. and has 4% silver & 96% tin. I like this idea because of low heat, shouldn't hurt the temper, but am a little surprised that they would only recommend a solder with only 4% silver, tensil strength is supposed to be between 14,000 and 28,000 PSI. Is this enough strength to handle this?
"When this is done, the joint is "painted" with English solder. This is a solder paste made up of flux mixed with powdered tin and powdered lead." I am not familiar with English paste solder, is there a brand name and what type of heat and strength characteristics does it have. Brownells has a few paste solders, the low temp stuff has a tensil strength of only 10,000 PSI and no silver in it. The other pastes have silver but a melting temp up over 1000 deg.
I appreciate the help alot! Sorry for the long post but it is tough to find people that can do this or knowledged in how to do it and I really don't want to send the barrels out if I can do it.


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2003 8:43 pm
Posts: 419
Location: Rural Michigan
You would do well to pm Mike O and have him do the work. Trusting a local "gunsmith" who mostly replaces springs and works on deer rifles may cost you more in the end.


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 Post subject: Re: Loose Rib Repair
PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:41 am 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:01 pm
Posts: 207
Location: Central PA
I resoldered the rib on tonight. I used the Swif 95 solder from Brownell's. It wasn't all that bad, the set up and clamping were about the worst. I can't budge it pushing as hard as I can from the side, so I am guessing that I have it down. Now for the test firing tomorrow, if it will stand up to the rigors of shooting I got lucky on my first try. The bluing does not show any damage so I don't have to reblue. If it holds I will apply some solder black to the shiny solder joints that are showing. Thanks for the previous posts.




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