Great info, thanks for posting.

I was hoping someone could tell me what tool is needed to remove the stock on a Weatherby Orion. I removed the recoil pad and spent far too long gazing into the whole in the stock.
No matter how I held it or how I shined the light in, I just could not tell what I needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Bill

Thanks Bill,
Just finished the job on my 425 and was surprised at how easy it was.
I appreciate all this type of info.

Don

This post was awesome! My Browning 525 sporting is having issues with the lower barrel missfiring and I could see the primer was slightly dented while the primers on the other shells had much deeper dents. I switched the shells with the slight dent to the top barrel and they went off fine. So not the reloads it's the gun. Had my gun cleaned by a gunsmith and returned it today for another look see as I still had a few missfires. Once I see how to get the buttpad and the stock off I think this is going to be a regular part of my gun maintenance routine!

I have found issue with Euro primers in AA hulls. The current AA hulls have rims that vary greatly in thickness, combine that with the Euro primers and their steel strike surface and misfires are more common. Not a problem with Rem hulls

Curly-Nohair
All the primers in question were Winchester 209 primers.
As you stated I had no problems with the ones that had Remington primers or any of the Remington Hulls.

FYI: I found and read this post on Christmas morning and immediately pulled the stock off my 682 and discovered that it is very similar in design. I removed both firing pins and cleaned the holes (oh, my gosh what filth!!!), and reassembled. It took about a half hour.

The main difference is that with the Beretta, one of the retaining pin holes is blocked with the little spring loaded gizmo that holds the top lever over when the gun is open. It had to be removed (watch that spring and plunger, it will get away from you QUICK). Before reassembling the gizmo, I ground a tiny notch in it to clear the pin hole so I don't have to remove it next time.

All in all, a very easy job!

-Bear

Shouldn't The firing pin protrusion be the same for both barrels?????

The bottom actually extends further but the pin is struck with much less force than the upper pin due to the design geometry.

You wrote-The bottom actually extends further but the pin is struck with much less force than the upper pin due to the design geometry.

The bottom firing pin is struck with (insignificant) less force due to geometry design providing the spring force is the same for both hammers.
The firing pin length & shape as well as the firing pin cavities determine firing pin protrusion. There must be enough protrusion to pinch the primer mixture between the bottom of the primer cup and the anvil. Kind of like when someone puts a toy cap on the concrete sidewalk (we all did this when we were kids didn't we)
and smashes it with a hammer. You could have triple the spring force on the upper firing pin hammer but I'll bet if the firing pin protrusion were shortened another .018 difference you would get failures to fire occasionally. Add to this the shotshell hull head flatness/rim thickness variation and we surely have a recipe for failures to fire. Ask Browning what the specifications for firing pin protrusion should be. So you see-firing pin force is needed to detonate a primer as well as correct firing pin protrusion. Increasing firing pin force is not the right way to correct a firing pin protrusion problem. I"m all for a sqeaky clean shotgun. However cleaning a firing pin and cavity which does allow more protrusion but might only temporarily solve a manufacturer's shortfall.

WOW ! ! Great post ! Thank you very much for taking the time to include the excellent photos. I own two Citori's and will be at the workbench first thing tomorrow to follow your procedure. You mention replacing some parts at 30K rounds. Where would I go for those parts?

Thanks again.

I just checked this post out and am having FTF's with my 1960's vintage Miroku (who makes the Citoris). Technology has changed, my gun has flat springs rather than coil springs and it appears as if the firing pins are accessed through the breech face via a screw plug that needs a spanner type wrench to remove. Am I correct? Anyone have experience taking the firing pins out of an older Miroku? I would love to clean out the firing pin area since I have 100,000+ rounds through that gun and have never cleaned the pins. Thanks for any advice.

This would be a great topic to have permanently in the I Love My Browning Forum. Can it be moved there or a copy placed there? This amateur gunsmith really appreciates this info. Thank you.

Masterful discourse...

Can you do the same for other shotguns by request?

That might work if you buy him the shotgun!

Fantastic instructions and photos on how to remove, clean and replace the dirty firing pins. I successfully completed the operation with no problems. By the way, to tap out the retaining pins I carefully used a 3/32" pin tap 'substitute', a small 3/32" drill bit turned upside down. Thanks for that great post!!

Ha Ha Ha,Cheers Curly Made me laugh!

Presume that this tutorial is pretty much good for most makes of O/U shotgun?
T

I would suspect NOT

Oh. OK

I sure hope someone could help, I have three silver reserves in 12 and .410, Mossberg sent me three sets of firing pins today, i installed them in the 12 gauge in no time at all, however the 410 is a pain in the A$$. and now the pins stick out to far so the barrels wont close, Has anyone ran across this before. is there a difference in the pins, a upper and lower. I sure dont see any difference. Again PLEASE help.. Dean