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 Post subject: Re: MEC Taper Die - UPDATE
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:09 pm 
Diamond Grade

Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:33 am
Posts: 1252
Location: northern Oklahoma
Seems like a lot of over analyzing 2 pretty simple stations on the loader. The only adjustment on Station 5 is the punch for crimp depth, and the cam for how much dwell the body is held down. I went out and played with mine today, as some here are saying to do. I dang sure don't get 90% of my tapering from the cam body at "5". Best mine will do is bring the flare flush with side of hull. Station 6 is where I get my factory bevel. I hope I can post pics, but if not, it's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

Well, I can't seem to find a pic of my hulls with a http in front of it.

Eureka, the old can still learn. Image

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Last edited by Curly N on Sat Dec 23, 2017 11:51 pm, edited 3 times in total.
I fixed it, you were right


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 Post subject: Re: MEC Taper Die
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 10:13 pm 
Diamond Grade

Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:33 am
Posts: 1252
Location: northern Oklahoma
albatros wrote:
My approach:
Raise it several turns. Put a shell that came out of station 5 (AND looks good) into station 6. Run the press down and hold it. Run the taper crimp die down till it touches the hull. Rause the oress, drop the die another half turn and tighten the lock nut. Check a few shells coming out. Slide your fingers up past the crimp. If you fell ANY noticeable ridge, drop the taper die another 1/4 turn or so.


Yes, the simplest. Not much thinking involved, simple just trial and error.


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 Post subject: Re: MEC Taper Die - UPDATE
PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:56 pm
Posts: 5792
Location: Central CT
The crimp body and plunger on station #5 is different on the 12 and 20 Gauge 9000 series reloaders than it is on the 16, 28 & .410 9000 series reloaders. The crimp body and plunger on the 16, 28,and .410 crimp body and plunger are the exact same as the Sizemaster. That is not true of the 12 & 20 gauge. With the plunger and crimp body on the 12 and 20 ga. you cannot get a radius on the crimped shell before station #6. The real difference is the plunger. On the 9000 series 12 & 20 Gauge loaders the plunger is squared off top and bottom and larger in diameter, which does not allow the crimp to roll. On the 16, 28 and .410 plungers they are slightly smaller in diameter, radiused and chamfered on the top side of the plunger which will allow the shell to roll over in the #5 station.

If you look at the final crimp on a 9000 Series 12 & 20 gauge loaded shell the crimp is sharper and more defined with the than the other 3 sizes.......that is if you have it adjusted correctly.

I thought it would be better to use the Sizemaster crimp body and plunger on my 12 gauge 9000H, just to get the radius started.....so I tried it.....nope it isn’t.


Therefore you cannot setup the 12 & 20 gauge loaders the same as you setup the 16, 28 & .410 loaders when it comes to the final crimp on a 9000 Series reloader.

The part numbers are different for those in doubt.

_________________
Mark

aka Mr. Tactful.


Last edited by dogchaser37 on Sun Dec 24, 2017 10:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: MEC Taper Die - UPDATE
PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 10:26 am 
Diamond Grade

Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:33 am
Posts: 1252
Location: northern Oklahoma
dogchaser37 wrote:
The crimp body and plunger on station #5 is different on the 12 and 20 Gauge 9000 series reloaders than it is on the 16, 28 & .40 9000 series reloaders. The crimp body and plunger on the 16, 28,and .410 crimp body and plunger are the exact same as the Sizemaster. That is not true of the 12 & 20 gauge. With the plunger and crimp body on the 12 and 20 ga. you cannot get a radius on the crimped shell before station #6. The real difference is the plunger. On the 9000 series 12 & 20 Gauge loaders the plunger is squared off top and bottom and larger in diameter, which does not allow the crimp to roll. On the 16, 28 and .410 plungers they are slightly smaller in diameter, radiused and chamfered on the top side of the plunger which will allow the shell to roll over in the #5 station.

If you look at the final crimp on a 9000 Series 12 & 20 gauge loaded shell the crimp is sharper and more defined with the than the other 3 sizes.......that is if you have it adjusted correctly.

I thought it would be better to use the Sizemaster crimp body and plunger on my 12 gauge 9000H, just to get the radius started.....so I tried it.....nope it isn’t.


Therefore you cannot setup the 12 & 20 gauge loaders the same as you setup the 16, 28 & .410 loaders when it comes to the final crimp on a 9000 Series reloader.

The part numbers are different for those in doubt.


Welllll, that's good to know. It wasn't that long ago, I was still loading on an old single stage Texan DP II. It has the same camming action on it's final crimp, similar to a MEC station 5, but you can affect a radius there, as it has no station 6, like a MEC does.


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 Post subject: Re: MEC Taper Die - UPDATE
PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:02 am
Posts: 1069
Wouldn't it be great if MEC read the reloading threads here, learned how their machines actually work and maybe, just maybe, put some of that info in their owners manuals!

On close observation you'll notice that I'm NOT holding my breath.
:lol: :lol:

Merry Christmas guys.
{hs#


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 Post subject: Re: MEC Taper Die - UPDATE
PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:02 am
Posts: 1069
It's amazing how much simpler things get once you actually understand what's going on. :shock:

I had about a half a box of shells that I decided to use to get the crimp/taper where it needed to be by running them thru stations 5 and 6, kinda like I was finishing up a session.

First, I took a WAG at adjusting the cam and pretty much nailed it on the first shot. You could barely see any difference but the shells dropped right into the barrel with no resistance. The only real visible difference was that the center of the crimps looked to be too deep so I backed off the crimp punch about 1/2 turn and voilà, crimps that looked better than the ones from the factory!

My local guy was out of CB HS wads 'til next week so I'll have to wait to do any from scratch but I suspect that I won't have to do anything except maybe a bit of fine tuning.

Thanks again guys, and Happy New Year.
{hs#




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