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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 11:58 am 
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Stuck-N-Kali wrote:
[Not to get off topic, but what are you using to get those clean cuts?

I use the fiber-based (larger) Dremmel cut-off wheels that I picked up at Home Depot:

Image

The are awesome. The standard (smaller) rigid Dremmel tool cut-off wheels are just too brittle, and can shatter just by handling them and putting them in the mandrel. These larger fiber ones also seem to last much longer.




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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 12:08 am 
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I'd never noticed the fiber-based ones but I know what you mean about the rigid ones. If I get one cut finished without breaking any, I figure it's time to run and get a Lotto ticket!
:lol:

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:47 pm 
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Burnt Powder wrote:

Worrying about who's Eurotrash hull is who's is kind of a moot point. Treat them all the same when loading them regardless of brand on the hull or base and you'll be fine. If one has a higher base wad than the other, use a shorter wad or more dense powder, or maybe both. For lack of Eurotrash hull data, use Federal Gold Medal data, close enough.

BP


Hi,

So explain a bit more in depth for a newbie. If I understand correctly, I can simply use the same load data for Cheddite, Fioche, or Rio hulls, (basewad height and primers excepted). Or am I off base in my understanding?

Dalee

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 13, 2006 9:19 am
Posts: 1958
Location: Columbia, SC
Dalee100 wrote:
So explain a bit more in depth for a newbie. If I understand correctly, I can simply use the same load data for Cheddite, Fioche, or Rio hulls, (basewad height and primers excepted). Or am I off base in my understanding?


Yep, they are so similar that you can treat them as the same hull. I sent Tom Armbrust the same 16 gauge load in several different hulls - Cheddite, Nobel Sport, Fiocchi, B&P, Australian Winchester plus the paper base wad Federal. He tested them at the same time and the results were so similar that they were effectively the same. In fact, two of the hulls had results with the exact same average FPS, even though the individual shots were all different.

The only difference that I can see is that some of the hulls crimp better than others but that doesn't bother me because I pick up so many of these hulls that I reload them once then toss.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 4:22 pm 
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Hi,

Thanks! This helps my understanding of the process better. And it opens up more options for my 28ga reloading.

Dalee

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 10:31 pm 
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Here are some interesting hulls I found last week. Definitely the highest brass I have seen so far. The reloaded like regular Rios.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:16 am 
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they are T5.
http://www.siarm.com/product_info.php?c ... cts_id=782


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:38 am 
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Location: northern Oklahoma
HogRider357 wrote:
Here are some interesting hulls I found last week. Definitely the highest brass I have seen so far. The reloaded like regular Rios.

Image


I'm seeing those too, all boxed as Star Team, higher velocity. What inthe sam hill did you use to size that tall base. I am not loading them, just playing with them, but had to put them in my super 77 sizer, then remove the lift rod and put them in again to get the last 1/16" at the top. Wouldn't get it all on the first stroke.

I do pick up all those high base hulls, but segregate them all, store them up until I got a decent batch, and load nothing but buckshot in them. That way a guy my age can still use the old case identifier as high brass meaning "high power" or some other special shell identification.

I don't follow UEE's logic of loading 7/8 ounce in such a wicked looking hull. Boraghi and others do the same thing.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 11:21 am 
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About a year ago a friend gave me about 200 Remington hulls with a similar super high base... In attempting to load some to "check things out" I found that on my MEC 9000H once deprimed and sized I could not remove them from the sizer. Once I backed off the nut I could lift them out with no problem. I gave them to a friend that loaded with a 600jr, he had no issues..... Larry


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 12:14 pm 
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llc wrote:
About a year ago a friend gave me about 200 Remington hulls with a similar super high base... In attempting to load some to "check things out" I found that on my MEC 9000H once deprimed and sized I could not remove them from the sizer. Once I backed off the nut I could lift them out with no problem. I gave them to a friend that loaded with a 600jr, he had no issues..... Larry


I know guys with 600 Jr's who cuss hulls with lower bases than these or your Remington's, the ring sizer push rod hates them. They will use the MEC supersizer on some of the standard game hulls.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 2:54 pm 
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HogRider357 wrote:
Here are some interesting hulls I found last week. Definitely the highest brass I have seen so far. The reloaded like regular Rios.

Image


I know those shells well, and as factories, they are stellar performers (all the way out to at least 70 yards).

And yes, they reload just like regular Rio's.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:23 pm 
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Republican wrote:
I know those shells well, and as factories, they are stellar performers (all the way out to at least 70 yards).

And yes, they reload just like regular Rio's.


Is the collet sizer on a 9000 any deeper than a Super 77? My supersizer will not reach all the way to the top of those high sides. Otherwise, yes, I do think they should load like the regular RIO's.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:59 pm 
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
In a pinch, a Lee Load-All should re-size those no problem.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:24 am 
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oldtechshooter wrote:
Is the collet sizer on a 9000 any deeper than a Super 77?

No, they use the exact same collet and part number, and it is even interchangeable between the SS77 and a 9000.

That is somewhat of a down-side to such tall brass, - no all of it will fit into the resizers. To date (not that I load a heck of a lot of those super tall brass Rio's), I've never had a problem cambering them in any of my Browning Citori's, or Benelli Cordoba.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 9:02 am 
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Republican wrote:


That is somewhat of a down-side to such tall brass, - no all of it will fit into the resizers. To date (not that I load a heck of a lot of those super tall brass Rio's), I've never had a problem cambering them in any of my Browning Citori's, or Benelli Cordoba.


If I was any better at posting pics, I'd put one up. I DO NOT load them for daily shooting, I only collect them for my buck or ball loading for easy I.D. should they get mixed with anything. After the first trip through the S77 normally, there is a distinct flare around the top 1/16" of the steel base, enough to catch a very dull fingernail. Can't see how that would fit into anything. Or mebee it would fit, but I'd never tried it yet, just visibly it looks to not fit wit that big edge.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:47 am 
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I resized mine in a MEC Sizemaster. I didn't pay close attention about the fit in the collet and if you look at the pictures, there seems to be a bit of a bulge at the upper area of the brass where the resizer didn't reach. Anyhow, they fit into my Citori chambers without problems and shot just fine.

I will take a closer look next time I'll find some of those.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 7:44 am 
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Topic stickied.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Thanks Curly!


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2015 7:13 am 
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Joined: Mon May 04, 2015 2:01 pm
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As somebody new to shotslug loading, I have read this thread with great interest and have found it very useful in helping my understanding of the process. thanks for making it a stickie


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:27 pm
Posts: 80
Hey guys.
I am tooling up to reload some Lee 7/8oz slugs for my two shotguns.
I have been collecting range hulls. And most of them are either Fiocchi or Remington.
I can't figure out if they are straight wall hulls or not.

Here is all the info I have on each of those two hulls:

Fiocchi is from factory 2"3/4 slug loads. Roll crimp. White translucent plastic. Markings on hull reads: FIOCCHI SLUG, 1560 fps, 70MM, 1 OZ. Without a tape measure I estimate the brass to be about 1/2 inch high.

Remington hull come in two varieties.

Marked Remington hulls: from 2"3/4 factory slug loads. Roll crimped. Green opaque plastic. Markings on hull reads MANAGED RECOIL, 1200 FPS SLUG, MAX 1050 BAR, 12GA 2"3/4 - 70MM. And I estimate the brass to be about 3/4 inch high.

Unmarked Remington hulls: Look identical to the marked ones. Except no markings. I am pretty sure those are from 2"3/4 Remington Slugger factory loads.

Are these suitable for reloading slugs? I indent to roll crimp and use the 7/8 OZ Lee slug mold. Are they 'Euro' hulls? Are they straight wall hulls?




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