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BROWNING A5 DISASSEMBLY

94K views 76 replies 26 participants last post by  Thunderball 
#1 ·
#2 ·
Finally dared to open up my A5 - it hasn't been cleaned since 1972!
These instructions helped a lot.

ps. Remarkably, it wasn't so dirty. Guess I'll wait another 40 years to clean it ;)
 
#5 ·
It's really not as bad as these instructions make it appear to be. For a good internal cleaning, you only need to remove the trigger group, carrier and bolt assemblies. The other parts in the assemblies can be cleaned with an old toothbrush and some solvent. My carrier is the old one pc. design, which makes it alittle easier too. There's a very good video on Art's website showing the steps involved. The video shows you real time how easy it is.
 
#6 ·
I'll have to check out that video. I had the A5 restored and took it out once to shoot two rounds
of trap. Performed really well. I bought the new spring kit for it and the cycled perfectly. The
gun sure has a little kick to it. I think I'll clean it and oil it up good and keep it as a safe Queen
from now on though.
 
#7 ·
The videos are more for his refinishing process, but you get a good tutorial in taking down an A5. Mine is a 1953 model with the one pc carrier. I bought a new spring kit and ring set for mine and it cycles like a brand new gun. When you see him prying out the action spring plug, he could have been filming me. Mine was the original wood plug and more than alittle soft after 58 years. You shouldn't have any problems.
 
#8 ·
ok guys this is a question for the world of browning guys i have a 1941 browning 16ga youth a5 on the link at the top of this fourm it goes into detail on page 13 to remove the bolt carrier group in the first pic to remove the pin using a punch through the ejection port......well mine is missing the cut at the edge of the port???? plz help! :x
 
#10 ·
FullChokedChicken said:
ok guys this is a question for the world of browning guys i have a 1941 browning 16ga youth a5 on the link at the top of this fourm it goes into detail on page 13 to remove the bolt carrier group in the first pic to remove the pin using a punch through the ejection port......well mine is missing the cut at the edge of the port???? plz help! :x
Could you post a picture or two of the left and right side so we can see the issue?
 
#11 ·
I wouldn't even take the trigger group out to clean it. There's no need to risk marring those beautiful screws or the side of the receiver with a screwdriver. If it is really filthy, remove the butt because the spring will surely be filthy as well. But with the barrel and butt off, you can soak the receiver in your favourite solvent for a day. Use a pressure washer if you want to blast out everything inside, or brake cleaner. Drop it in clean solvent again to remove any water, and blast it out with air. Lube it up, air blast out any excess lubricant and put it back together.
 
#12 ·
Gunsmith screwdrivers are not that expencive. They uasually ask more for the word Gunsmith. but anyhow. I have completely disasembled my A5 with just a diagram. Trick, The bolt comes out the front of the action after you take the op. lever out. The large screw in the rear of the action that has to be remover to allow the bolt back far enough to remove the op. lever.bolt falls out. I had to replace the fireing pin.. Under ten bucks from Browning (at the time I did it) and yes ,Brake clean is one of the better solvents, works like carbin tect. Best to have a mag cup for all the screws. Engraved lock screws are pritty arnent they. Pain in the a$$. My A5 is a grade 3, 16 gauge made in 1933 W/ barrels
 
#17 ·
NWNCMike said:
Question:
Step 34
What years are "earlier guns" and what is the "special tool" referred to?
I have a 1933 model.
Does your gun have the speed loading feature? I read in the Browning book that that feature wasn't install until 1934. So I am curious if that is true.

I shoot Remy II's and Browning Auto 5's. If indeed there was no speed loading feature on pre-1934 Auto 5's then the only diff between the two manufactures would be the Shell Stop, which no one uses anyway.
 
#19 ·
Rudolph31 said:
Speed Load, late 1953. The Shell Stop gets used every time. Magazine Cutoff use is optional.
That is interesting. I thought that the shell stop and the magazine cuttoff were one of the same and it is so stated in my Browning book. So, what is the difference? I have never switched that magazine cuttoff switch rearward, except to just flip it back and forth, and frankly I don't know what happens if I did and then loaded the gun.

While I love my Auto 5's, I am about equally crazy about my Rem Model 11's, but I do appreciate the speed loader when shooting skeet/trap.
 
#20 ·
It's easy, even for those experienced working on them, to get the terms mixed up. The Shell Stop is that part visible on the left side of the receiver. It is held flush with the inside of the receiver by the barrel when in battery. As the barrel recoils it moves into the path of the next shell--stopping it--untill the barrel moves back into battery.

The Cutoff is useful when hunting and you need to unload to cross a fence. Instead of removing the shells in magazine you can flip the switch and simply remove the one in the chamber. Browning mentions being loaded for ducks and being able to quickly switch to a goose load.
 
#21 ·
Thanks to all for the knowledge that is shared here. I recently tore down my Remington Sportsman 48 then moved on to my Browning Dbl Auto. After much trepidation I ordered some proper tools and ventured in.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... 25476.aspx

I have primarily been following the field manual instructions provided above. I did watch Arts disassembly video once however lately when I try to view it fom his website it falters. I have confirmed that with other SGW members to eliminate the error was mine. It is also one of the only videos that has not been loaded onto YouTube.

I made the plunge and ordered this video from Midway USA for backup.

American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) Technical Manual & Armorer's Course Video "Browning A-5, Remington 11, & Savage 720 Shotguns" DVD

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/464714 ... otguns-dvd

It's good however my personal preference is Art's however without a reliable connection I wanted backup. I admit it I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.

For reference the A5 is a Lt 12 from 1960 with a 28" VR MOD barrel. I purchased it years ago and have shot thousands of targets with it. Lately upon ejecting a shell the breech block would hang up. With a little persuasion and a little lubricant I was usually back at it. It should be noted this occurred in February with temps below or at freezing. This firearm is not a safe queen and shoots reliably in all conditions.

When I removed the butt plate screws it seemed like dust wafted out of the holes. The butt plate is original and I doubt it was ever removed. It is frozen on the receiver. After fiddling with it for a few minutes I put them back in an moved on as I would prefer not to damage the butt plate or the stock just for curiosity.

I removed the lock screw and tang screw and removed the stock. It was reassuring to see the serial number matched the receiver. Plenty of soot fell out of this area.

Next I removed the trigger group screws. My confidence was rising as the hollow ground screwdriver bits worked flawlessly. Then the trigger group hung down and would not fall out of the receiver? Hmmm? Seemed like something was binding it? While flipping it over and back and forth to try find a solution a small shard of metal fell out from???? Still not sure where from yet. To be continued. I suspect it might have come from the breech block assembly as Art addressed this as a common failure in his video. Sure wish I could view it again.

I then realized the hammer pin was sticking out proudly on the extractor side of the receiver. How and the hell am I going to get that pin moved in while it's still encased in the receiver? I played with it for awhile hoping that gravity would be my friend. No such luck.

I then looked at the field manual to see which steps were next. I proceeded to remove the carrier assembly. Still not enough room to wiggle any tools next to the hammer pin.

Next I removed the action spring assembly which requires a "spring protective area" the metal plug pin came out easily from the "wooden" action spring plug. Classic Belgium.

With all of these components removed I was able to wedge a tapered shim made of plastic between the inside of the receiver and force the pin flush and drop the trigger group. That's enough success for now.

Tomorrow I'll drive the pin out of the breech block assembly and start soaking all these components. I hope to discover where this metal shard was attached. Looking at the amount of grit and grime I suspect I might be the first person to see these components since they left Belgium 55 years ago.

Perhaps I can post some photos tomorrow.
 
#25 ·
wahooka said:
This was a BIG help.. I never realized the receiver would be so sharp where the trigger assembly is. I was cleaning inside and cut the snot out of myself. So be careful :D
+1 wahooka those edges are like razors.

I hammered out the Locking Back Latch Pin and just as the field manual specified the Lock Back Latch fell out. The Lock Back Latch Spring do not however a pair of needlenose pliers took care of that. The only thing that wa restricting it's movement was 55 years of crud.

I then pulled the Operating Handle rearward and while simultaneously pushing the Breech Block forward. Well the Breech Block hung up just about exactly where you line the pin with the cut out in the receiver. Hmmm. I tried to jiggle it thru no luck. I took a brass drift pin and "gently tapped" it forward. Viola. Must have caught a burr or built up sludge.

I then removed the magazine spring retainer using "Art's special tool" a nail head on the workbench helps grip it from the inside for removal. This is much more simple then trying to pry it out with a flat screwdriver blade. For those that have not removed one be aware that you "can shoot your eye out" when that spring flies out like a Jack in the Box. I also removed the Magazine Follower and ran a 12ga chamber brush thru the magazine tube. I found some light surface rust near the magazine cap end. I'll run some scotchbrite in there. Or maybe a 10ga brush. Otherwise the ID looks a bright and shiny as the barrel bore.

Being that the weather is not yet conducive to working outside in the garage without heat. I tried something I learned from the DVD from Midway. I soaked, sprayed and scrubbed all the components with Simple Green. Then I flushed them with hot water. I have never been a muzzleloader however I think they practice this method.

I then towel dried then used compressed air to blow out as much moisture as possible. I then wiped everything down with the Rem Oil wipes that come in the tall container.

I have the trigger and the breech block assembly sitting on a bench with a ceramic heater oscillating on them for good measure.

I have decided not to tear down the trigger or breech block assembly. The DVD provides the knowledge to do so however I don't feel the need to create anymore headaches for myself just to prove I can do it. I also opted not to remove the magazine cutoff or the carrier latch assembly. I believe in Art's video he recommended leave those alone unless they needed replacement. Mine are attached with very thin pins instead of the screws that require a jewelers screwdriver. I believe the carrier latch assembly pin hole has approximately 1/32" of material which you could easily blowout. I'll pass on that.

Remember when I said I found a small shard of metal when I began this journey?
 
#26 ·
Take a look at these two photos

This photo shows the breech block assembly with the shard put back in place.



This photo it with the shard of metal removed.



I believe on Art's video he addresses a similar failure however I thought it was from one of the components housed in the breech block? Not from the actual block? Perhaps I can ring him up for a chat.

I have found a few burrs here and there that can be stoned however other than the above mentioned metal shard I can find no further issues. Nor do I want to.

I'm still unsure about fussing with the removal of the butt plate? I have heard stories of old hunting licenses, cigars, etc being found in the Lightning hole.





I also noticed these stamps on the pistol grip knob. I believe this has no reference however it is mentioned in the S/V A5 book.





Well wish me luck putting her back together. I truly appreciate all the A5 comraderie on SGW.
 
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