This post will show some of the quick external ways to quickly tell if an early 16 gauge A-5 was properly converted from a 65mm (2 9/16") chamber to a 70mm (2 3/4"). I hope to add another post later that shows before/after shots of the whole process, internal and external. All of the pictures show the standard 16 gauge (2 9/16) on the top and the magnum 16 gauge (2 3/4) on the bottom. By the way, the 2 9/16 gun has the original, worn rust blue, the 2 3/4 gun was reblued. Note the different colors and pay attention to them when shopping. The quality of work on conversions varies greatly - some complete and very neat, others incomplete and/or crudely hacked out.
1. If possible, measure the chamber. Jeff shared a method to make a simple chamber gauge in another post.
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3. Look in the shell port and find the ejector at the back of the barrel extension, just in front of the breech bolt. It is the part that is round in the front and has two prongs that stick out in the back. Notice that the ejector is short and fixed in place in this 2 9/16 gun shown below.
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The ejector in the converted gun shown below is the same length, but has been modified with a slot so that the ejector can move forward and aft. If you are brave, you can make sure that the breech bolt stays open and reach in to see if the ejector moves freely forward and aft. If the bolt slams forward on your finger, you will be careful to never let it happen again. Some converted guns may be slotted, but the ejector may be corroded in place and need some cleaning before it will move.
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4. Remove the fore arm from the gun. 3/32" of wood was removed on the converted gun where the barrel guide ring strikes the fore arm so that the barrel can sit 3/32" farther forward than it does on an unconverted 2 9/16" gun. An unconverted fore arm should measure approximately 3 17/32" from where the barrel ring rests to the front of the fore arm. A converted gun measures approximately 3 7/16". If the wood was removed with the special Browning tool, it will be very neat and hard to tell it was ever modified at all. Note also the location of the serial number on the forearm of the unconverted gun. The number should match the receiver, barrel ring, barrel extension, operating slide handle, breech bolt, buttstock under the tang, carrier screws, and the shank of the trigger plate screws on this early of a gun.
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The back of the forearm was also cut 3/32" with a chisel to make room for barrel extension to move farther forward in the fore arm.
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5. Look at the top of the gun. Notice once again how the barrel sticks out farther on the converted gun. There will two different widths of the barrel extension sticking out of the receiver on the converted gun. If the converted barrel has not been reblued (this one has been reblued), the widest, farthest aft portion of the barrel extension that is visible will be bare, shiny metal. Look at the back of the fore arm on the converted gun. This one did not have enough wood chiselled out and the barrel is forcing the fore arm to spread wider than it should. I need to fix it. On a well-executed conversion, the wood will be neatly removed and each width of the barrel extension will fit precisely into a properly gouged out spot in the fore arm.
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That's a quick way to tell if you are looking at a 2 9/16 gun or one that has been converted to a 2 3/4 gun. Please post any comments or better pictures you have.
Keith
1. If possible, measure the chamber. Jeff shared a method to make a simple chamber gauge in another post.
2. Look carefully at the right side of the gun. Notice how the ejection port opening ("shell port" in the Browning manual I have) was enlarged towards the front of the gun. The distance from the front of the shell port to the front of the receiver is approximately 19/32" in a 2 9/16 gun, and exactly 17/32" in a properly converted gun. Also notice that the barrel sits farther forward in the converted gun. More on that later.Jeff Mull said:
3. Look in the shell port and find the ejector at the back of the barrel extension, just in front of the breech bolt. It is the part that is round in the front and has two prongs that stick out in the back. Notice that the ejector is short and fixed in place in this 2 9/16 gun shown below.
The ejector in the converted gun shown below is the same length, but has been modified with a slot so that the ejector can move forward and aft. If you are brave, you can make sure that the breech bolt stays open and reach in to see if the ejector moves freely forward and aft. If the bolt slams forward on your finger, you will be careful to never let it happen again. Some converted guns may be slotted, but the ejector may be corroded in place and need some cleaning before it will move.
4. Remove the fore arm from the gun. 3/32" of wood was removed on the converted gun where the barrel guide ring strikes the fore arm so that the barrel can sit 3/32" farther forward than it does on an unconverted 2 9/16" gun. An unconverted fore arm should measure approximately 3 17/32" from where the barrel ring rests to the front of the fore arm. A converted gun measures approximately 3 7/16". If the wood was removed with the special Browning tool, it will be very neat and hard to tell it was ever modified at all. Note also the location of the serial number on the forearm of the unconverted gun. The number should match the receiver, barrel ring, barrel extension, operating slide handle, breech bolt, buttstock under the tang, carrier screws, and the shank of the trigger plate screws on this early of a gun.
The back of the forearm was also cut 3/32" with a chisel to make room for barrel extension to move farther forward in the fore arm.
5. Look at the top of the gun. Notice once again how the barrel sticks out farther on the converted gun. There will two different widths of the barrel extension sticking out of the receiver on the converted gun. If the converted barrel has not been reblued (this one has been reblued), the widest, farthest aft portion of the barrel extension that is visible will be bare, shiny metal. Look at the back of the fore arm on the converted gun. This one did not have enough wood chiselled out and the barrel is forcing the fore arm to spread wider than it should. I need to fix it. On a well-executed conversion, the wood will be neatly removed and each width of the barrel extension will fit precisely into a properly gouged out spot in the fore arm.
That's a quick way to tell if you are looking at a 2 9/16 gun or one that has been converted to a 2 3/4 gun. Please post any comments or better pictures you have.
Keith
