http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/si ... -Evolution

Spring, Cocking Lever part 46
Plunger, cocking lever spring part 45

On the schematic, I've identified a light primer strike being caused by the cocking rod not returning fully forward after cocking. The hammer then must push the rod out of the way
To strike the primer.

This seems to be common on the 682.

So, how do I get to these parts for a thorough cleaning and spring replacement.

I appreciate your help in advance.

Remove the stock, there is a pin (keeper) that holds the plunger/spring and block in place in the reciever. Once you "carefully" remove the pin, the plunger (with the spring under the plunger) are free to fly out! So carefully remove the pin, and note the block orientation!

One other note on "light" primer strikes, All primers that DO NOT GO OFF look light!
It is the set back of ignition that make a "used" primer look deeper.

You can lube those cocking rods by squirting a little CLP (or other good lubricant) in both the front and back (of the reciever with the stock off) and see if they are free or not, just by pushing on the front of the cocking rod(with the hammers COCKED) the rod should spring back out when pushed in!

It normally isn't the cocking rods themselves that are the problem but that plunger, over the cocking rod return spring that is embedded in the reciever.

When I mess with these things I drop the trigger group - it isn't difficult and it makes life simpler. I'm going from memory and I don't have my gun in front of me- so bear with me a bit.

You need a very fine tipped set of screw drivers - there is a set of fine magna tips available through Brownells that do nicely.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4434 ... IN-BIT-SET

Specifically you need a magna tip 120-1 for the lock out screw (#120) this bit is 0.120 wide and will need to be filed down to about .100 wide (I don't see that magna-tips come in a 100 -1 bit). You'll need a .210 - 2 bit for the rear post screw #54 under the safety slide, and you'll need a .340 - 1 for the trigger plate screw #55. The -1 bits have a 0.020 tip thickness, the -2 bits are .025.

Start with the hammers cocked

Remove forearm, barrel, and buttstock.

Remove the bbl selector lock out screw (#120) if present.

Push out the through pin (#52) that holds the safety in place and lift out the safety - notice how the arm of the safety nests in the trigger mechanism. Also note how the pin and spring (#50) relate. When you put the pin back in you'll have to get it right relative to the bend in the spring. Edit: The through pin (#52) works perfectly as a slave pin for replacing the inertia paul block spring.

There is a screw (#54) that the safety slide hides that needs to be removed - it is loctited in. You'll want a bit of loctite on it when you re-install it. Add: Cfoster has posted that a heat gun may help to break the locktite bond on this screw.

Then remove the tiny locking screw (#78) in front of the trigger gaurd on the underside of the receiver, and then remove the larger screw (#55) that the lock screw (#78) holds in. Notice how the slot in the main screw is aligned.

Then the trigger group can be removed - there is a slight recess that the rear post of the trigger group fits into on the underside of the top tang, it can be a little difficult to get it to drop clear. (remember when you put it back together that that rear post of the trigger group has to fit back up into that recess!)

Now the pin that the cocking levers pivot on (#44) can be pushed clear. Pay attention to how the cocking levers are mounted on the receiver. When you push the pin (#44) and the cocking lever is freed, there is a plunger and spring that operate the cocking levers that you have to capture. That spring and plunger is usually the issue - hone out the bore that the spring and plunger are in (600 grit wet/dry paper and a q-tip shaft works, or a small drill bit wrapped with 600 grit paper.) Make sure before you put the spring plunger assy back in that the bore hole is absolutely clean with no grit /gunk in it. I take the plunger and the sandpaper and work the outer edges slightly to make sure the edge of the plunger does not have any burrs or sharp edges and can't hang up in the bore.

IIRC, you can push the pivot rod (#44) 1/2 through and remove one cocking lever (#47 or #48), cocking rod (#49), plunger (#46) and spring (#45). Clean every thing up and replace them, then push the pivot (#44) through the other way and do the other side. It gives you some reference what things look like when you get yourself confused.

IIRC you can do the plunger and spring without dropping the triggers - but you need to drop the triggers if you want to pull the cocking rods themselves and clean them and their races.

Assembly is the reverse - make really sure the rear post of the trigger group fits up into the recess on the underside of the tang. Also, make sure when you drop the safety back down through the tang that the safety meshes with the trigger group properly.

You guys are the best! while I could have likely figured it out eventually, I might have broken my countenance

I might you tube it

John H.
Thank You
Yours was an excellent and well written post. I would like to add that when you remove Screw #54 under the safety it is best to apply heat to release the locktite. The 1st time I did this I fractured 4 bits using an impact tool, then after a bit of heat with a heat gun the screw loosened quite easily.
Hope this helps;
Chuck

Edited the original post to add Cfosters observation on the heat gun and the actual bits needed. Any other corrections/additions?