When I mess with these things I drop the trigger group - it isn't difficult and it makes life simpler. I'm going from memory and I don't have my gun in front of me- so bear with me a bit.
You need a very fine tipped set of screw drivers - there is a set of fine magna tips available through Brownells that do nicely.http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4434 ... IN-BIT-SET
Specifically you need a magna tip 120-1 for the lock out screw (#120) this bit is 0.120 wide and will need to be filed down to about .100 wide (I don't see that magna-tips come in a 100 -1 bit). You'll need a .210 - 2 bit for the rear post screw #54 under the safety slide, and you'll need a .340 - 1 for the trigger plate screw #55. The -1 bits have a 0.020 tip thickness, the -2 bits are .025.
Start with the hammers cocked
Remove forearm, barrel, and buttstock.
Remove the bbl selector lock out screw (#120) if present.
Push out the through pin (#52) that holds the safety in place and lift out the safety - notice how the arm of the safety nests in the trigger mechanism. Also note how the pin and spring (#50) relate. When you put the pin back in you'll have to get it right relative to the bend in the spring. Edit: The through pin (#52) works perfectly as a slave pin for replacing the inertia paul block spring.
There is a screw (#54) that the safety slide hides that needs to be removed - it is loctited in. You'll want a bit of loctite on it when you re-install it. Add: Cfoster has posted that a heat gun may help to break the locktite bond on this screw.
Then remove the tiny locking screw (#78) in front of the trigger gaurd on the underside of the receiver, and then remove the larger screw (#55) that the lock screw (#78) holds in. Notice how the slot in the main screw is aligned.
Then the trigger group can be removed - there is a slight recess that the rear post of the trigger group fits into on the underside of the top tang, it can be a little difficult to get it to drop clear. (remember when you put it back together that that rear post of the trigger group has to fit back up into that recess!)
Now the pin that the cocking levers pivot on (#44) can be pushed clear. Pay attention to how the cocking levers are mounted on the receiver. When you push the pin (#44) and the cocking lever is freed, there is a plunger and spring that operate the cocking levers that you have to capture. That spring and plunger is usually the issue - hone out the bore that the spring and plunger are in (600 grit wet/dry paper and a q-tip shaft works, or a small drill bit wrapped with 600 grit paper.) Make sure before you put the spring plunger assy back in that the bore hole is absolutely clean with no grit /gunk in it. I take the plunger and the sandpaper and work the outer edges slightly to make sure the edge of the plunger does not have any burrs or sharp edges and can't hang up in the bore.
IIRC, you can push the pivot rod (#44) 1/2 through and remove one cocking lever (#47 or #48), cocking rod (#49), plunger (#46) and spring (#45). Clean every thing up and replace them, then push the pivot (#44) through the other way and do the other side. It gives you some reference what things look like when you get yourself confused.
IIRC you can do the plunger and spring without dropping the triggers - but you need to drop the triggers if you want to pull the cocking rods themselves and clean them and their races.
Assembly is the reverse - make really sure the rear post of the trigger group fits up into the recess on the underside of the tang. Also, make sure when you drop the safety back down through the tang that the safety meshes with the trigger group properly.