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 Post subject: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 10:30 am 
Utility Grade

Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:53 pm
Posts: 10
Awaiting arrival of my second 16 gauge M37 ... an early post war I think.
It's full choke, and the seller says function is excellent, but it's obvious from pictures that the cosmetics could use a bit of work. I've already arranged to have the choke opened to either IC or M (no decision yet - to facilitate use of steel shot and/or use as an upland gun), and will do the woodwork refinish myself with tung oil.
Trying to decide whether to go with a professional hot blue or a "midnight blue" Cerakote on the metal work. Torn between the traditional look and something that might prove a bit more durable for field use. Any thoughts on either the choke, or the metal finish choice would be appreciated.




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 Post subject: Re: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 2:41 pm 
Diamond Grade

Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:31 pm
Posts: 1805
Be aware that if you do Cerakote you will need to make sure you don't have the threaded holes in the receiver built up to change the dimension, that includes that small hole on the bottom that takes the pivot pin for the shell stop. All those drilled and tapped and reamed holes have working dimensions as they are pivot points for the mechanism.

Can it be done, of course and will it make a weather proof gun ? Yes.

I have reblued a couple of my hunting 16's and not had any issue out in the weather (here in Ohio it can be wet at times) as long as they are maintained. Like any gun, you have to make sure you get them dried around the fore end, etc.

I (and probably most folks here) prefer a good blued finish.

If you are going to alter the choke anyway, look into Briley chokes. They are well worth the money and can handle non-toxic shot.

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drcook = David R, not Dr. but thanks for the compliment :). Most people just call me Dave


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 Post subject: Re: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 1:46 pm
Posts: 335
Location: MN.
If it turns out to be pre war I would only send it to Les at Diamond Gunsmithing and have it totally restored by him.

Instead of Cerakote if you are planning on waterfowl and rough use and feel that you have to have the extra protection then do it right and send it to Robar. Black Oxide on the outside and NP3 on the internals. But a coat of good wax on a blued bbl. does just fine too and helps cut down on glare. But I don't find that a problem just don't move in the blind until your ready to shoot.

I shoot Bismuth when I have to use non tox not that much more than premium steel and the new Biz is a lot better than any steel. What constriction to open it up to for upland depends on using a flusher or pointer and bird species. And pen raised phesants an IC choke is fine. In SD with a flusher not so much. In fact I leave the 16 behind and use the Ohio 12 ga. Ultralight with a flusher there.

I do have a 16 that I sent to Briley for chokes if you want to shoot steel make sure you order the steel chokes, they have lead only also. And specify constriction not SK, Mod, etc. That way they are matched to your bbl. with exact size that you want for what ever your shooting. But going with fixed chokes gives you even more reason to purchase more guns :D

Not sure if you are referring to a straight tung oil finish or modified. If straight tung oil and you have never done it before I would suggest that there are a lot better finishes out there.

For modified tung oil one of the processes I used to use is the Benmatte tung oil sand in filler and Waterlox sand in top coat. It is a very durable finish and you can make it low gloss if you want.

My last gun I did went with IthacaMatts recommendation of Herter's French Red Stock Filler from Brownells and couldn't be more pleased. The man knows what he is talking about and I used to hate all stains and dyes for woodworking. I top coated with about a dozen sanded in coats of minwax antique oil finish and so far it has been as reliable as the Benmatte\Waterlox finish. It has worked well in the rain and snow for me so far.

Which became my go to grouse gun, 1949 16 ga. IC.
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 Post subject: Re: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 6:25 pm 
Utility Grade

Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:53 pm
Posts: 10
Appreciate your thoughtful suggestions gentlemen.

I've done quite a few stocks with tung oil, and been pleased with the results ... checked my Brownells catalog and found they ship the French red stock filler only to con. U.S. ... looked interesting, but sadly, not available to me.

I think I'll stick with smiths on this side of our border ... trying to avoid major shipping costs, and not sure of all the procedures and rules for guns/gun parts crossing back and forth over the Canada/U.S. border.

Factoring in my age, I suspect I'll be handing the gun over to a son or grand child before I get much use out of it, but at least half the fun is being involved in the refurbishing process!


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 Post subject: Re: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 8:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 1:46 pm
Posts: 335
Location: MN.
In that case I would not have thin wall choke tubes installed. While there are other choices down here I would only let Briley touch my barrels. Thin walls can be tricky and machining has to be perfect. Then there is the fact that you have to be careful of the tubes which as the name implies are thin and can dent more easily than regular choke tubes. And that can cause the end of your barrel to split if shot goes go through it.

You can always have a constriction opened later if your not happy with it, if you open it up too much your going to be stuck with it. With that said IC is fine for steel you shouldn't be shooting more than 30-35 yards with steel anyhow. Or steel larger than #3 in the 16. Mod is the tightest of course. So trying to find a comprise for upland depends on the birds your hunting. If your West of the Sunset Area shooting sharpies and phez I would want LM or Mod. For ruff in the Sunset Area and East in the Boreal Forrest I always thought one of the rifled bores that B. Rizzini only sells in Canada would be the ticket. It is the same habit as Northern Mn. where I hunt grouse. I use IC and it is still a bit tight most of the time, think about opening it up but always a compromise so keep it as is.

A common constriction 16 ga. double barrel shooters often open to is .004 and .014, or .002 & .012. If I was going to do waterfowl with a 16 and steel then .012-.014 would be my choice. Factory steel loads and even lead keep going up in velocity as time goes by. Which means a lot more recoil, not so sure it means more dead birds. I load for 1250 max for hunting and 1175 for clays, most steel seems to be getting up in the 1400 fps and more range. One thing you should really do IMO is make sure you bed the head of the stock to prevent cracks from developing in your wood.

Good luck and have fun with your project gun and heirloom. Your future generations will cherish it, of that I am sure. And for that I would stick to a good bluing job. My youngest son has a gun his grandfather did the same thing with and gave him before he passed away 10 years ago. He doesn't shoot that one much but he will never part with it.


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 Post subject: Re: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:32 am 
Limited Edition

Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:25 pm
Posts: 495
Location: Georgia low country
Another option would be the two part epoxy "shake and spray" diy kits by Duracoat. No need for a compressor, air gun. All materials are in a kit. They have a full spectrum of colors. I believe it is available in Canada. The kit is relatively inexpensive and easy to use. I have used it on my Russian single-shot turkey gun. The finish is durable if properly applied (follow directions) and allow it to cure for a month before use.
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 Post subject: Re: Hot blue or Cerakote?
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 10:31 am 
Crown Grade

Joined: Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:27 am
Posts: 2736
Location: North Central West Virginia
Just my opinion, but I wouldn't ruin a pre-war 16 gauge M37 with Cerakote. I'd have the gun professionally reblued and sending it to Diamond Gunsmithing would probably be the correct choice.




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