Shotgun Forum banner

Roll Crimp Questions

5K views 28 replies 14 participants last post by  bladesmith 
#1 ·
I purchased a new roll crimp, the ExactaRoll Double-Pin Roll Crimper 12ga. from BP. This is my first Roll Crimper and I am wondering how it looks and if worked right.

It's not rounded, I think because of the double pin style of crimp? Not sure... I have never roll crimped before this was my first attempt ... opinions?







Thank you.
 
See less See more
3
#6 ·
Only other idea is to make sure you are applying the swirl tool slowly; giving the plastic time to warm up and form a better "roll". That said, roll crimpers are a tool from the dark ages of paper hulls. Have heard some are better than others with plastic, but paper is standard on which these tools originated.
 
#8 ·
I went with a couple of BP roll crimpers until I ordered a Prescision Reloading crimper and I'll tell you what... there is absolutely no comparing them. I just roll crimped about a dozen turkey loads and 50 - 410 loads with all once fired hulls and they look perfect. They all have that nice rounded edge and look like roll crimps did when I was a kid.

I also found that when reloading 12 ga steel loads with the BP crimper, it sured seemed like I was getting some increased pressure. With the PR crimper, the loads are very consistant. I did not send my BP crimpers back, but I do not use them any more. I chauked it up to a learning experience.
 
#9 ·
I can apply a roll crimp from 10rpm to 2000 rpm and it will roll the edge of the case over within 5 seconds fast or slow and leave a tidy internal edge from stone cold , The roll pins have a crescent shape to them as from new. Yours is entering the roll crimp tool and hitting the pins which have not been rounded off,
They should ROLL the edge inwards instead of hitting a flat pin and being forced to go inwards from a dead end and leaving and untidy internal edge and flat top.
 
#10 ·
Exactly! The crimp shouldn't be flat. It should be rolled inward. The PR cimpers have the raised crecent shaped indents (4), also. They are almost a clone of the old Lyman crimpers. All I know is they really do a fine job, but there are some other brands that do excellent as well.

The crimper shouldn't have to break in or be a certain temp. It should generate the heat needed to make the roll in just seconds.
 
#12 ·
Thanks everyone for the tips... I am going to give it another try before sending this one back... I think I may be applying too much pressure. This is not the normal roll crimp ??? I think..? ... it was a design for some Military app.

Here is what the website says:

"New for 2010 ExactaRoll™ double-pin roll crimper (12ga only) This is our premier roll crimper design. We've doubled the resistance rollers to make this our most efficient roll crimper ever. The double-pin design of this crimper offers the handloader greater crimp control, tighter sealing and roll crimps in half the time. We designed this for a military client and we liked it so much that we had to offer it to you too. Oriented for clockwise rotation in either drill presses or hand drills."



I don't know maybe its supposed to be square? Do all roll Crimpers have the pin?
 
#17 ·
Very similar to the PR crimper. They use four raised points, but pretty much the same. I also us a Hull Reconditioner that "irons" out the old crimp with pretty good sucess as well. On the 410 I do not. i just mad an iron out or a bolt that helps relax the old folds. Nice crimp with that Gaep tool!
 
#18 ·
Has anyone here on SGW ordered a set of the roll crimp tools from GAEP?

What did it cost at the end of the day, and how much of a hassle was it to do the whole overseas thing?

Are these also used in a drill press?

Does their set come with hull vises, or do those need to be bought somewhere else?
 
#21 ·
i roll crimp all my loads and a few things i have learned is as follows.
1. bp roll crimping tool does good but the end are flat instead of round but it does have a taper to it.
2. precision crimping tool puts a perfect round crimp that looks perfect
3. dont force the crimp tool to fast on the hull (take it slow and steady)
4. get the space right just as you do with fold crimp before you attempt a roll crimp
5. i found no need to warm tool at any time.
if it buckles out at the edges i found you dont have enough space for the roll crimp and it is forcing the crimp down and in return buckling it out. if i had this to happen which i have since i create loads i lower the shot column just a little bit. i do use a drill press and a hull holder so everything is the same as far as length
 
#22 ·
I need to take pictures, but my GAEP roll crimp tool does a great looking job, I need to test some of the loads that it has done. Looks are great but it's the performance of the shell that counts to me.
So depending on the weather and my back, I will try a few out this weekend.

Lots of great advice in this thread.

Jerry
 
#24 ·
The Gaep crimpers look great - but confusing. They have the T1, T2, T3, T4, they have one for paper, one for plastic, one for slugs, a brass head version (with a picture of multiple heads), then they have a G1 model, and a OTP (4 head) model. All 12 gauge. If a person wanted to load plastic hulls, steel waterfowl loads (BB-#4 steel) which tool do you want?
 
#25 ·
Used google translator

Gaep T 1,2,3,4 are BN 1,2,3,4

OTC Coil for closing cardboard shells for round edge.
* STC coil for closing cardboard stellar shells.
* OTP coil for closing round edge for plastic cases.
* BOP Coil for ball cartridges with locking round edge.
* BN1 coil for closing stellar "beak of an owl" with dust boots and bright light 24-28g.
* BN2 coil to crimp closure "a bird's beak" for the best results with 30-cartridge 36 gr.
* BN3 coil universal crimp closure and round, with burning powders suitable for medium-slow 38-42gr loads.
* BN4 coil for closing stellar dust using progressive slow-burning, very suitable for magnum cartridges.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top