I have seen a few companys that sell a shotshell waterproofer that is applied to the crimps. Would cost something and would probably not do any more that the wax Curly recommended.
I have heard about using "shellac-like glue" but I don't like the sound of it. Anything that has the word glue in it, scares me a little.
I like the idea of just a drop of wax in the center. I am just trying to keep the buffer in the shell with a AA, 8-ponit crimp. The crimps look good and tight so maybe I just wait and see if i get any leakers?
Wax is the answer,why don't you think Federal paper shells used them from the get go,because it
can't hurt anything.I have used it many times, as needed on paper shells that have had a small bit
of paper blown out after firing.
The right stuff to use that doesn't raise pressures(I know because I actually preassure tested it) and seals properly is any good silicone sealer. Loctite has a clear silicone and a blue RTV Sealant, both work.
It won't make it waterproof, but I have been known in the past to put a small tad (pinch) of dacron "fluff" over top of the shot before crimping. It does produce some howls at the skeet range!
With the limited experience I have with sealing loads, I found that parafine wax, or candle wax, (same thing), works very well, is cheap, available at the grocery store, and easy to use. Does the intended job and has no unwanted side effects
I agree, any kind of glue should be avoided entirely.
Do you guys really think a sealer is even needed nowadays?
I dropped a target shell into a puddle during skeet league one time--it remained submerged for quite a while, as I make a habit of never stooping over while on station. After I finished and stepped off the whole crowd wanted me to shoot the shell.
As you've probably already guessed, it worked flawlessly.
Do you guys really think a sealer is even needed nowadays?
I dropped a target shell into a puddle during skeet league one time--it remained submerged for quite a while, as I make a habit of never stooping over while on station. After I finished and stepped off the whole crowd wanted me to shoot the shell.
As you've probably already guessed, it worked flawlessly.
IF, and I say IF, I were loading Steel Shot, (which I don't), I would seal the shells as a practice. This is to keep any moisture from whatever source, getting in and rust clumping the shot. That's about the only time it could possibly be a benefit, as far as I'm concerned.
Luckily the Elmers is not much of an adhesive and it peels of easily. Once fired there is no residue of it left on the hull or in the barrel. I used to use the silicone based sealants and I noticed a buildup of gunk in the gas ports on some autos.
I've not bought any new shells since Hector was a pup but when I could get Sears/Federal light field loads for $1.85 a box, (still got a couple boxes of them) they all had a dab of paraffin melted over the top of the crimp. Yes, plastic hulls. I've tried it but you either need warmer wax or warmer hulls to get it to stick and seal well. Just dribbling it off a candle didn't work so well. I shoot Skeet on occasion with a fellow who shoots his old CFAA 410s until he can't hold the shot in with scotch tape and hot gun glue. And that in tubes and a K-80. He's so tight he wouldn't give a nickle to watch a chicken eat a bale of hay!
Do you guys really think a sealer is even needed nowadays?
I dropped a target shell into a puddle during skeet league one time--it remained submerged for quite a while, as I make a habit of never stooping over while on station. After I finished and stepped off the whole crowd wanted me to shoot the shell.
As you've probably already guessed, it worked flawlessly.
Any open flame around my reloading bench makes me nervous. I have used clear nail polish in the past to seal crimps and it works like a champ. As a bonus, each bottle has an 'applicator brush'.
Any open flame around my reloading bench makes me nervous. I have used clear nail polish in the past to seal crimps and it works like a champ. As a bonus, each bottle has an 'applicator brush'.
Who said anything about an open flame around a loading bench? I anneal rifle brass all the time with an open flame propane torch but it isn't anywhere near my loading bench. Just night before last I did a bunch of newly formed 280 Ross cases I made for a friend out in the garage. I'll bet I could have sealed shotgun shells out there too. I suppose there are those who wouldn't think about that?
I was going to mention that yesterday but got waylaid and didn't get back to it. Seal primers and bullets on metallic rifle shells not crimps on shotgun shells. I wonder what old Geo. Herter would'a say about that?
I just find it a bit, well I don't know what, to be afraid to melt wax or burn a candle around loadidng components and as such use fingernail polish instead. I can't imagine anyone having any flame or hot stuff around any powder or primers regardless of why. Suggesting using a very poor excuse for a sealant because you were afraid to play with matches in the loading room is, is, is? Do it right and don't do it in the loading room. I consider fingernail polish to be a poor substitute for a good sealant.
BP: In the spirit of the 'friendly forum' why is fingernail polish a poor substitute for candle wax as a crimp sealant? Ever notice wax can easily break away from the hull while clear nail polish won't? Try it, you will like it......
I think dogchaser has been reading a lot of the same material I've been reading. A drop of wax works good if you apply it with your brain engaged. Some people can screw anything up. I have seen a few nuts put so much candle wax on the crimp that they fused all the shot together. I try not to use anything but there are times that you need it, like to keep buffer in & water out. I have used silicone sealer like Mark talks about. With buckshot & large shot it is sometimes hard to get the crimp closed tight & you have to be careful not to get a half tube of sealer in your load. A lot of data for the denser non-toxics call for a over shot wad. I like the frangable fiber types. High density shot blows that to bits with no ill effects I can detect. There are many things that will work to varing degrees. I like smearing a stiff bullet lube to the end of the hull instead of silicone. It seals great & no worries about high pressure. The down side to bullet lube is you have to keep your shells in a plastic box or some other container that will keep them clean as bullet lube draws dirt & crud like a magnet! Looking for a bullet lube that dries hard. I never sealed a primer. Talking about dropping a shell in a puddle of water? I was rail hunting a couple years ago. I have a gun rack built in my boat so when a bird flushed, the gun is right there. (no motor, just a push pole) The rack is designed for the trigger guard to be ahead of the stop. I reached over to put more loaded shells in the shell trough & the gun slid out of the rack & went overboard (I hunt rails with a cheap sxs because it is very hard on equipment). Well I knew exactly where the gun was & the water was only about 3' deep. What I should have done was rig something on the end of the paddle. I could feel it with my fingers. Well I reached too far & turned the dam boat over. I don't know how long they were in the water but when I got back in the boat, the birds were flying so I kept shooting. WW HS 20 HULL, WIN. PRI. , 7/8 oz. mag. # 7 shot, DRV 20 WAD, NO PROBLEM!
This is from BPI's Handloading Bismuth Shotshells: "Since waterfowl loads and other hunting loads are invariably used around water or in wet conditions, the reloader must take care to make his loads water resistant. A quick dab of primer sealant over the crimp and the brass end of the shell helps to keep damaging water out or your high performance loads. Note: Primer Sealant is the ONLY material acceptable for sealing the crimp. Wax, Glue and etc. are not safe!"
That having been said, I use use candle wax on the rare occasion that I need a crimp sealed. I also never use the candle in the same room as the reloader resides.
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