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Rabbit Gun

20K views 25 replies 17 participants last post by  thunderkiss65 
#1 ·
I am in need of a Rabbit gun,and really wanted to get something inexpensive. I also need a short barreled gun. I don`t want a 12 or 20..my favorite gauge is the 28,,so a Rem Express 870 with the 25" bbl is a possibilty..but the Mossberg .410 with the 24" bbl is also looking like a lot of fun,,and considerably less cash. So I would like to hear from people who use a .410 for rabbits/Squirrels. The shots I will be getting on Rabbits are sometimes as close as kicking a blowdown and flushing one out..heavy briar patches etc..so I don`t expect long shots. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
I use to have a single shot .410 and hunted both rabbits and squirrels with it. A friend of mine had the Mossberg pump .410 and also hunted rabbits and squirrels with it. It will do the job especially on rabbits which are usually shot closer than squirrels and are easier to kill than squirrels. I would highly recommend using 3 inch shells over the 2 1/2 inch ones. The 3 inch shells generally resulted in less wounding/cleaner kills for us. I would use #6 shot although you might get by with #7 1/2 shot for rabbits. #6 shot worked better for me. I have thought about getting a Yildz O/U .410 for rabbit hunting. But my 20 gauge Stoeger Uplander works so well I hate to not use it.
 
#3 ·
For the money you can't go wrong with the Mossberg. Advise given above is spot on about shells. How ever for some odd reason I've found #4's pattern very well out of a lot of .410's. If you get one that patterns them it's a really great squirrel load. I've owned at least one .410 since I was 9 and I just turned 72. Wonderful little guns.
 
#8 ·
Try a .22 rifle or pistol. Opens up a whole new world, especially when you can hit them running.
 
#9 ·
28 ga and inexpensive in the same sentence is an oxymoron. There will be a premium on it when compared to the 12 and 20 ga in the same lines. Same goes for ammo only more so.

For "inexpensive" I would go 20 ga as performance for your needs is not different to matter, the guns will be cheaper, the weight will be similar, the ammo is much less costly as well as readily found.

If you want a 28 then buy one. Just don't use "less expensive" as a justification.

As for the 410, much the same can be said for that as for the 28. Difference being a Mossberg 500 can be had for a lot less than a Rem 870 and 410 ammo is more commonly found than 28. I used an Iver Johnson single shot in 410 on a lot of game as well as a Browning Citori and found they worked well inside 25 yards but were quickly surpassed by the 20 beyond that range. I carry a 410 when I really don't want to shoot something, when I want to fill the pot, I grab a 20 ga or larger.
 
#10 ·
To add to what Ugly Dog says as I totally agree. An inexpensive 28 or 410 is also built on a 20 gauge frame and often weighs more. Get a 20, shoot less expensive ammo which can be found more commonly. You can also generally get a 20 with screw in chokes. Like others said, fur bearers seem to be better taken with a little heavier shot so you can take them without saturating them.

DP
 
#12 ·
uglydog said:
28 ga and inexpensive in the same sentence is an oxymoron. There will be a premium on it when compared to the 12 and 20 ga in the same lines. Same goes for ammo only more so.

For "inexpensive" I would go 20 ga as performance for your needs is not different to matter, the guns will be cheaper, the weight will be similar, the ammo is much less costly as well as readily found.

If you want a 28 then buy one. Just don't use "less expensive" as a justification.

As for the 410, much the same can be said for that as for the 28. Difference being a Mossberg 500 can be had for a lot less than a Rem 870 and 410 ammo is more commonly found than 28. I used an Iver Johnson single shot in 410 on a lot of game as well as a Browning Citori and found they worked well inside 25 yards but were quickly surpassed by the 20 beyond that range. I carry a 410 when I really don't want to shoot something, when I want to fill the pot, I grab a 20 ga or larger.
28 gauge and .410 are less expensive IF you reload. The shot is the most expensive component when reloading so with the smaller payloads of these gauges, the savings are greater especially when factoring in the increased cost of factory ammo. Of course you can reload 3/4 ounce 12 gauge and 20 gauge shells as well and save a little too.
 
#13 ·
20 ga is still cheaper than 28 ga, even if one reloads. 3/4 oz, even 1/2 oz fit well in the 20 ga with a further savings as wads for the larger bore are cheaper as are hulls whether one initially buys factory or relies on used/new empties. This even more true as one rarely finds empty 28 ga hulls of any sort on the ground or in dumpsters while 20 ga of one sort or another is common. Buying empties is also cheaper for the 20 given the laws of supply and demand.

Add in the higher initial costs of gun, shells/hulls, components, and reloaded and the 28 ga will not catch the 20 ga, all else being equal. One will save more with the 28 compared to factory but comparing factory to factory or similar reloads to similar gives an advantage to the 20. The greater savings due volume of production for the 20 is a significant equalizer.
 
#14 ·
uglydog said:
20 ga is still cheaper than 28 ga, even if one reloads. 3/4 oz, even 1/2 oz fit well in the 20 ga with a further savings as wads for the larger bore are cheaper as are hulls whether one initially buys factory or relies on used/new empties. This even more true as one rarely finds empty 28 ga hulls of any sort on the ground or in dumpsters while 20 ga of one sort or another is common. Buying empties is also cheaper for the 20 given the laws of supply and demand.

Add in the higher initial costs of gun, shells/hulls, components, and reloaded and the 28 ga will not catch the 20 ga, all else being equal. One will save more with the 28 compared to factory but comparing factory to factory or similar reloads to similar gives an advantage to the 20. The greater savings due volume of production for the 20 is a significant equalizer.
Ok, I admit that I have not researched what I am about to say so feel free to prove me wrong. While 20 gauge 7/8 ounce wads are no doubt cheaper than 28 gauge 3/4 ounce wads, I believe that 20 gauge wads for 3/4 ounce or lighter are more expensive than 7/8 ounce 20 gauge wads due to lower demand (same argument you are using for the 28 gauge) and are probably on par with 28 gauge 3/4 ounce wads. The vast majority of reloaded 20 gauge rounds are 7/8 ounce so the wads for different payloads are usually more expensive. Now you can add felt wads or Cheerios or whatever to fill in the space on a 7/8 ounce wad so that 3/4 ounce will fit and crimp correctly but this adds extra expense as well as time and you know what they say - time is money.

As for the hulls, I assume most people buy factory ammo with the hull they prefer to reload and reload their own empties. The vast majority of my reloads are that way and I reload 20 gauge hulls with 7/8 ounce shot. Sure, I pick up occasional hulls now and then but since I only reload Remington hulls, I pass on all others and most of what I find are not Remington. So it's not a reliable way to keep my hull supply stocked. When my reloaded hulls get worn out, I just buy some more factory Remington shells and then I have fresh hulls good for 7-10 reloads. So yes, the purchase price of the factory loads would be higher for the 28 gauge but the reloads cheaper comparing 7/8 ounce 20 gauge vs 3/4 ounce 28 gauge given that shot is the most expensive component. My post was pointing out the cost of the reloads only - not the other factors you mentioned.
 
#15 ·
I don't know what wads for 3/4 oz 20 ga run as I have never bought or used them. I'm not sure I have even seen any in person. As it is as easy to load 3/4 oz in the 20 as it is for the 28, I added that in to make equal comparisons. For 30 some years I have used standard 20 ga wads for 3/4 without issues. This is with Remington and Winchester AA cases utilizing Win AA wads or Claybuster's equivalent and Green Dot powder. At one time the 20 ga was even cheaper as I used slightly less powder in the 20 ga than I would Unique to get equivalent performance from the 28 but newer powders have equaled this out.

From reading on this forum, if I were to have dished crimps, a piece of Wheat Puffs or similar cereal would be an inexpensive filler to adjust stack height. I haven't had to use it yet but the time will probably come.

Remington Gun Clubs are common on the ranges I shoot weekly with STS and AA ripe for the picking after registered shoots. The local farm store and the range sell Gun Clubs but the only other large stores where I have seen or heard selling them are Dick's and Academy. The former is over an hour away and the latter is not found in this state. Walmart used to carry Gun Clubs but it's been years since I last saw them on the shelf there.

28s are rare as hen's teeth on normal days with AA and STS nearly as rare after tournaments. The other brands of 28 hulls can be picked up but even they will quickly be picked up by the less discriminate. I hear other places see few Gun Clubs of and gauge which would color one's ability to gain freebies. Luckily that is not the case here and the only times I need to buy factory shells is when it is required in the tourney rules.
 
#16 ·
28 ga users always use reloading as a way to justify the extra costs of shooting one. Arguing the difference in costs is kind of penurious. Both are cheap to reload and the differences in costs are pretty minor unless one does a lot of shooting, which on game I don't seem to get anymore. Both the 7/8 oz 20 and the 3/4 oz 28 are pleasant to shoot. I like my 28 for its carry qualities, but as discussed many are heavier than a 20 as they are built on 20 ga frames. If one likes semi autos the 20 can be had in a very light weight gun but the 3/4oz loads may not function well.
The 28 costs me more to reload. As Ugly dog mentioned, I have picked up enough cases from a gun range to last me a life time for hunting loads. Most are Federal and I could shoot them once and pitch them if needed. The semi auto does that for me at times but I generally like to use a double. The 28 requires that I buy cases or factory loads, which run nearly double that of a 20. Nor are they readily available.
So as to costs, I could go happily on my way using a 20 gauge with factory loads, which I can find easily without reloading. 28's and 410's are not as versatile for other game and cost more. I still would not go broke using them as most hunting is not that intense anymore.

DEP
 
#19 ·
I have a Mossberg SA-20, and it would make an excellent rabbit gun. It's light weight at 6 lbs 4 oz, and will handle any light load you want to use. When I was a kid back in the 1970's in upstate NY I used a 20 gauge bolt action, and then a 20 gauge pump for bunnies. Both had Modified barrels. I used Remington #6 high base game loads for both bunnies and squirrels. I wish there were more rabbits here in NH, but due to lack of habitat, too few to bother with.

Regards,
Joe
 
#20 ·
I'd just like to see a rabbit. It's probably been 15 years since I have even seen a rabbit around this area. I think the coyotes have decimated them.

When there still were rabbits, I used a 16 ga Ithaca with 1 oz of 6's or a 20 ga Mossberg also with 1 oz 6's. Both were great rabbit guns that today sit unused.
 
#21 ·
I realize this post is old, but cool to keep going. I have literally killed thousands of rabbits with 1/2oz 7.5 shot over beagles, with an old Stouger SxS. You can't afford good dogs with out reloading for 410 and 28ga.... Have killed piles with 5/8oz 20ga also... rabbits die easy, no need to for a blunderbuss.
 
#22 ·
Zbigniew said:
Try a .22 rifle or pistol. Opens up a whole new world, especially when you can hit them running.
I know this is a shotgun forum - but - I absolutely agree with you. I have been hunting rabbits and squirrels since I was eight with .22s. First it was with my Marlin 39A and for the last 40 years with a Ruger Mark series and as soon as they came out, with an Aimpoint on the top.

Less destroyed meet;
Cheaper to shoot;
Lighter weight to carry in the field.

Surprisingly to some, when hunting rabbits with a group driving the field, I generally get more shots and bring home more rabbits than the guys with shotguns.
 
#23 ·
ChanceMcCall said:
Zbigniew said:
Try a .22 rifle or pistol. Opens up a whole new world, especially when you can hit them running.
I know this is a shotgun forum - but - I absolutely agree with you. I have been hunting rabbits and squirrels since I was eight with .22s. First it was with my Marlin 39A and for the last 40 years with a Ruger Mark series and as soon as they came out, with an Aimpoint on the top.

Less destroyed meet;
Cheaper to shoot;
Lighter weight to carry in the field.

Surprisingly to some, when hunting rabbits with a group driving the field, I generally get more shots and bring home more rabbits than the guys with shotguns.
My biggest concern with using a .22 for rabbits (especially running shots) is safety. Where I hunt, it is usually public land where other hunters could potentially be just out of sight behind some brush but well within .22 range. Not to mention roads, buildings, and livestock that all could easily be within .22 range of where I am hunting. Trying to keep track of all of that when a rabbit flushes and make sure the shot is in a safe direction at the same time is a tall task where I hunt. Shotgun is much safer since max range a pellet will travel is around 300 yards compared to up to a 1 1/2 miles for the .22.

If shooting a sitting rabbit with a .22, I can see where you can ensure that you have a suitable backstop or direction of fire much easier than when the rabbit is running. Also, if you are out west somewhere where your closest neighbor is 5 miles away, there are very few roads or buildings, and there is no public land/public hunting then it would be much easier to ensure a safe shot on a moving rabbit. But where I hunt anyway, I would have to pass up a lot of shots with the .22 that I can take safely with the shotgun.
 
#24 ·
ChanceMcCall said:
Zbigniew said:
Try a .22 rifle or pistol. Opens up a whole new world, especially when you can hit them running.
I know this is a shotgun forum - but - I absolutely agree with you. I have been hunting rabbits and squirrels since I was eight with .22s. First it was with my Marlin 39A and for the last 40 years with a Ruger Mark series and as soon as they came out, with an Aimpoint on the top.

Less destroyed meet;
Cheaper to shoot;
Lighter weight to carry in the field.

Surprisingly to some, when hunting rabbits with a group driving the field, I generally get more shots and bring home more rabbits than the guys with shotguns.
Fun, isn't it?

Not only that, it makes a really good shot out of you. Very few people I knew used shotguns for rabbits. Most used rifles, a few used pistols. I used a K22 Smith & Wesson most of the time.
 
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