Thank you for the excellent write up and education!

This is an excellent write up. I have a 325 that is opening sometime when it fires. I need to replace the latch. Do you have any information on how to do that?

Call a gunsmith. Specifically call Doug Braker: http://dougsgunsmithshop.com/

That part is not as simple as it may seem to replace. It needs to be fitted and Doug can often repair the lock bolt for the same or less than the cost of the replacement part. Further, he can tell you if there are some other issues that need to be addressed. Sometimes there are other worn parts than just the lock bolt when a gun shoots open.

Thank you for this post.....and forum.

I just did this procedure to my 1965 Superposed 20 GA that was giving me about 50% lite primer strikes on the bottom barrel. Ordered all the hard parts from Browning....and got the upgraded springs from jnpgunsprings.com

I enjoy working on my own guns....and this information gave me the confindence to dig into my old Browning. Wasn't hard to do simply following the OP's directions.

Thanks again!

I know I'm getting on this issue a little late, like a year! But I think you identified the possible problem I had with a Browning 425. There was a delay between trigger pull and the hammer hitting the primer. It would do this anywear from 2 to 5 times in a round of clays. Sent the gun to two well know gunshops and two local shops. No problem detected during their 5 or 6 test shots. I sold the gun cheap, and let the new owner know up front about the problem. I think the problem was the ejector trip rod attached to the lower hammer. If it was severly bent and had a lot of drag, could that have possibly caused the delay firing?

Is there a video out there on how to do this cleaning?

Just a bit of a tip. I found it easier to install the hammer striker springs by putting a few small thin washers under the spring at the hole in the rear of the receiver. This helps keep the spring central and stops it from sliding about while compressing the pin and spring. The washers will slide out from under the spring once they are in position.

Found this thread by accident and it was just the help I needed to replace springs etc on my XT Trap. Thanks for posting

Just gathering the parts necessary to do this tune up... What size punch will I need for the pins? Also can anyone help me with how to replace my top lever spring?

Great info! Thanks!

I just did a complete tune up on my 425. Replaced the hammer springs, firing pins, and the locking bolt. Parts were $70.90 from Browning, much cheaper than Midway or Brownells. It was easy and it is tight as new. Took about an hour with fitting locking bolt and cleaning.

No wear and everything looks good for another 14 years.

I wish I had thought about taking pictures, but when the parts came I just jumped on it.

Used this excellent write up to do J&P springs and pins on a Citori lightning. A while back, I had a hard time getting the trigger pin out of a hi power pistol, bought a kind of disposable screwdriver bit set from harbor freight to use as punches with a small arbor press, and it worked great. Long story short, the largest cupped bit in this set fits the hammer spring guide heads (and the guides in the forearm) well. The full set was a few dollars on sale, part number 68459, if you don't want to grind your own (I was going to do just this).

I just bought a used browning citori that was functioning fine. However after dry firing it, I can't get the gun to function anymore.

I've been searching blogs about the potential problem and ended up here. I think it is related to the hammers within the receiver. Or the receiver itself not re-setting.

Please if anyone knows about the Browning Citori trigger mechanism, contact me. I've spent at least 5 hours trying to research this problem and I feel that due to my lack of experience w/ o/u shotguns I may be missing something easy.

Ok, here ya go:

A Browning Citori will not cock the hammers if the forearm is not on the gun.

A Browning Citori will not dryfire the second barrel unless you either firmly bump the stock to simulate recoil or switch the barrel selector to the other unfired barrel.
The opening lever must be held to the right of a fired citori to fit the barrels back onto the receiver.
Once the barrels are refitted/installed and forearm attached and locked, the action must be unlocked with the lever and the barrels lowered to the fully open position to cock the hammers and latch the lever to the right.
Lubricate the joint of the barrel and the receiver as well as the curved part of the forearm iron with a good grease. Keep fooling with it dry and you will gall the mating surfaces.

Just moving the safety on and back off again will allow dry firing the other barrel. No need to bump the stock or switch to the other barrel.

Sorry for a question on an older thread..

This is an excellent resource!

I had a trip rod break. When I replaced it, I noticed that it seemed to have a slight camber to it. The note you had in your writeup also says that it wasn't straight from the factory.

I used a torch to lightly heat and slightly bend the rod to be straighter.. It slides very freely now in it's channel and appears to be almost too lose on the hammer pin. My question:

How easily should the trip rod move? I don't have a factory citori reciever to compare to any longer. In relative terms, on a fully-assembled receiver, with the hammers not cocked, should I be able to slide the trip rod with just my finger? and should it be pretty easy to do so?

Thanks for any help, in advance!

My rods were very hard to push in (needed a tool) until I bent them straighter, then they went in with a finger pretty easy. Don't think they should be sloppy loose but they don't have to be super tight either, easy finger push in was just right for my gun.

Absolutely fabulous post!! I have a brand new 725 Trap and I am very fastidious about keeping my guns clean. I am working my way to the "receiver section" and this is very helpful. The main reason I came to this thread was I was looking for a spring compressor to do exactly what you're doing here only with the ejector hammer springs. Great idea and I will make one the next time I'm in the shop. Now I can handle the main springs easily and not worry about that.

Interesting also about the firing pins and cleaning those. I have always been very careful to keep that area clean but your article with pictures points out a real need to be aware of their cleanliness too.

Again thank you for taking your time to document your "Tune-up" procedures with pictures and all.

Best regards,

Lisa

I agree with Adam; I would love to see the process with Beretta O/U's
Thanks,
Jim

Grrr. I just cannot get the upper hammer spring guide back in. What is maddening is I did it before with just a pair of needle nose pliers. It was a pain but doable. Now I ground a screwdriver to compress the pin and the lower barrel hammer spring guide was easy, but I cannot get the damn upper barrel pin. This even when using bigjede's suggested stacked washers. They help but I still cannot get the pin in the damn hole.

Here is something you might try for compressing the hammer spring if the slotted screwdriver tip isn't working for you. Take a piece of thin but strong wire about 4" long and wrap it around the forward tip of the hammer spring guide rod. Then take some pliers and twist the wire numerous times to tighten it onto the top of the spring guide.

Now place the spring guide and spring into place on the lower end of the guide. Then take the pliers and pull downward on the wire until you have compressed the spring enough to slip the upper end of the guide into place in the rear of the hammer.

Once it's in place, you simply un-twist your wire and remove it. Job's done.