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 Post subject: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:28 pm 
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Hello all, I've got a 15.3/15.7 and a 15.1/15.7 marking on my Stoeger Zephyr woodlander 20g. barrels for the choke. Could someone tell me what that means for my choke? It shoots nice but my only problem with it is it is very hard to break open after the shells are spent, i feel like the firing pins are catching on the shell preventing the gun from breaking open smoothly. Is this normal or is there something i can do to make it smoother? I literally have to whack the top of the barrels pretty solidly to get it to open up.


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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:41 pm 
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Those measurements are in millimeters - bore size and constricted size.....subtract one from the other for the actual constriction. IF the firing pins are not retracting, you can risk breaking them. Many new guns are stiff and hard to open - several folks I know break them open over their thigh

According to a conversion calculator, that should make them around 16 and 24 thousandths. According to this chart, that would be a M/IM
http://www.hallowellco.com/choke_chart.htm

IF I did my math right.

However, what something is marked, and what it actually does depends on your gun and the ammunition you'll be using. Go to a pattern board and see what it really is.

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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:44 pm 
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thanks, this is not at all a new gun. it was bought in 1960, is it normal for the pins to retract after firing?


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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:48 pm 
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Look at the spent shells. If the pins are too long it will show drag marks on the primers. Those guns were made by Victor Sarasqueta; a very good maker. I had a Sauer recently that was hard to open after firing the right barrel. After a little inspection, I decided the extractor was to tight. After doing a little filing and bending the little guide rod on the extractor it was fine. Also, try a different brand of shell if no marks are on the primers.
Choke markings; 15.7 is the metric bore size. The 15.3 and 15.1 are the muzzle measurements.
15.7 divided by 254=.618 which is very close to normal bore size for a 20. 15.3 divided by 254=602: difference of .015=mod. choke. 15.1 divided by 254=.594: difference to bore; .024=full choke.

http://www.colonialarms.com/chokespecs.html

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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:54 pm 
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There are little drag marks on the spent shells showing that the pins are dragging from the center firing point. the extractor does seem to extend pretty far, can you explain a little more about how you fixed the problem?


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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 8:59 pm 
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Those guns should have retractor springs, although not very strong. One of my Spanish guns pins was starting to stick a little. Removed the pin disc and pulled the pin out and dressed down some because the neck of the pin was a shade too big for the hole. If you have snap caps, insert and pull the triggers, take forend off then break the gun apart. If the pins are sticking you will see them protruding.

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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:03 pm 
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Excuse me , I told you wrong on using the snap caps. However, go ahead and do that then measure how far the pins are protruding.
(I know I'd get my thinking correct somewhere)
They are either sticking or too long.

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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:09 pm 
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the pins do stay sticking out after firing with the chambers empty. they can be very easily pushed back in though. There is a spring that should be doing this? is it difficult to get in there and take care of that?


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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:30 pm 
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You probably don't have a pin wrench. If you take a small brass punch that will fit in one of the holes, insert it and use a small hammer to TAP the punch counter clockwise as close to the disc as possible. Most discs aren't too tight. When the disc is about out, hold the receiver with the pins facing down close to the floor and remove: watch that you don't loose the spring. It will probably come out with the pin on the rear. Work the pins in and out of the disc at all different radius points to see if it is sticking some place. To get an accurate measurement of the pin protrusion pust the pin in the disc as far as it will go then measure. If the pin is too long I would dress it down with a stone in a Dremel. Just go slow and careful. Then use emery cloth to smooth the point, which should be rounded. Measure often. It is very hard metal. When my pin was too fat, I just kept dressing it with medium emery cloth: tedious.

Note correction on next post.

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Last edited by Patriot usa on Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:44 pm 
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I just removed a pin on an Ugartechea. Spanish should be the same. I was wrong, the spring is on the front of the pin. The front pin neck measures 7/32" long from the center flange.

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"I ask sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people...to disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."..
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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:57 pm 
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There could also be dirt/gum in the disc/pin assembly.

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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:59 pm 
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Great, sounds good. I can't do this for 2 weeks because the gun is in Maine, but its seems easy. Is it possible for the springs to be worn out?


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 Post subject: Re: Stoeger Choke markings
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Not likely. Before you do anything, look and see if there are marks where someone might have been in there before. If they did, they might have not put the springs back in.

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"I ask sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people...to disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."..
founding father George Mason.


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