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 Post subject: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 3:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:01 pm
Posts: 58
Location: MO
Just bought a Grulla sidelock. First sidelock for me - front trigger is 6 lb & back is 3 lb. Who is recommended to lighten the front & what has to be done? Also has auto safety that I would like to change to non auto. Is this possible? Thanks for the help.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sat Feb 26, 2011 10:57 pm 
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Location: Flathead Valley, MT
Can't help you on the triggers but can on the auto safety. You will have to remove the stock from the action. There is going to be a pin or very thin rod that goes through the wood from the back of the action to the safety. Remove the rod, place in a labeled container and save it for when you finally come to your senses and decide that an auto-safety is great in the field. :twisted:

When you push the top lever, part of the locking mechanism slides backward, it pushes the rod and that pushes the safety back. I don't have a picture with the rod, but here's what my F. Anitua Discoverer looks like:

Image

Notice that the safety has a little tab hanging down perpendicular to the tang. This is what the rod pushes against. It's hard to see in this photo (right-click on the photo and open in a new window), but right between the two cocking arms there is a rectangular piece of metal just above the cutout for the trigger group that is the part of the locking mechanism which slides rearward upon opening the gun. Hope that makes sense.

Here's a pic of my Martin Ugarteburu with an identical setup. I have disassembled it and added arrows to show how the mechanism works. I've pushed the lever over, the locking mechanism has moved rearward which would push into the rod that goes through the stock and would push on the face of the safety tab.

Image

Please chime in with other advice if your gun is different.

MD

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Last edited by mountaindave on Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 6:51 am 
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Very helpful MountainDave. Well done.

Thank you for that info.

Roger.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 12:37 pm 
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Location: Lodi, CA
Lucky,

I think you have those trigger pull weights reversed. I am willing to be that the first trigger is set around 3lbs. and the second is around 6lbs. --just as it should be. Read any manual or book on doubles and you will see that this is how the best guns are set up.

The first trigger is set lighter than the second for several reasons. The first gives you a nice, light, crisp, clean break. The second is requires a little more force because it has to hold during the recoil of the first shot and as your finger drops back to the second trigger, you tend to grab more trigger with more finger thereby preventing the gun from firing until you deliberately pull the trigger.

Spanish double triggered guns in general are known for their excellent trigger pulls. I can't imagine Grulla (one of the best shops in Spain) sending a gun out with a bad trigger.

David

To the rest of the group, notice how we never see complaints on trigger pull weights on Spanish doubles with dual triggers? It's one of the things the Basques do right even on the cheapest guns.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 3:33 pm
Posts: 381
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
MD:

My Uggie SL is a little different, the actuator rod to engage the safety is actually supported by a hole drilled in the stock. It works the same way though, when you move the top lever to the right it pushes the safety on.
I never bothered to take a picture but if I ever have it apart again I will try to get a photo.

I just happen to have a couple of spanish sxs's that don't have the auto safety that I won't take to the field. It never bothered me before, but since I have an auto safety on my main guns I just forget to pull it back to safe sometime..... I don't know if an auto safety could be put on them, so I just don't take them to the field. It's simpler for me that way!

It's funny how how your preferences change over the years, at one time I didn't like the auto safety either!!

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 3:35 pm 
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Location: ILLINOIS
I agree. I used to be bothered by auto safety. Now I actually prefer it.
Even for clay shooting I don't have to think about it.
Just slide the switch forward without thought.

But try to loan your gun to a friend. No matter how many times you say "auto-safety" they
forget about half the time. It takes some getting used to.

In the field, for sure, I wouldn't want it any other way.

Roger.


Last edited by ROGER OVER UNDER on Sun Feb 27, 2011 4:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 3:59 pm 
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Location: Lodi, CA
I agree also with everything said about the auto-safety.

I was gunning yesterday for a local dog trainer and his clients with my 16 ga. Arrieta 578SLE. At times I had as many 6-7 people standing around watching as we worked and steadied dogs on liberated birds. Not only is the auto-safety a blessing in that every time I open the gun and close it, I know the gun is on safe, but the location of the safety is just perfect. I can keep muzzle control, mount the gun, swing on a bird, be sure of my target and not take the safety off until the split second before I actually pull the trigger. This becomes very important when working unpredictable dogs that might break, jump, chase, or do some other unpredictable behavior in field. For me, it's just another layer of additional safety.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 5:39 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:01 pm
Posts: 58
Location: MO
Mt. Dave - thanks for the good photo & instruction on the safety change. I shoot a lot of sporting clays & prefer non auto. All of my break open hunting guns have non auto. I have used them for years & gotten very used to them. Keep guns broken open most of the time.
On an auto it must have operative safety, but they aren't auto safeties to start with.

David D - I have shot 100+ rounds thru this gun & have put a scale on each trigger, so I know back is lightest. I have seen where front should be 1 lb (3 lb) or so lighter than the back (4 lb), but this one sure isn't. Maybe the previous owner changed them for some reason.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:12 am
Posts: 205
Location: Wyoming
I bought a brand new Garbi 103A that had a front trigger pull weight of 2 3/4 lbs; too light for me (the rear was 3 3/4 lbs.). My gunsmith set the front trigger to 3 1/2 lbs. and all is well now. He didn't need to remove the stock, since it's a sidelock, and he only charged me $80! Trigger pull weight is really important to my shooting; like Goldilocks, not too much and not too little, but just right.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:15 pm 
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Location: Lodi, CA
Quote:
David D - I have shot 100+ rounds thru this gun & have put a scale on each trigger, so I know back is lightest. I have seen where front should be 1 lb (3 lb) or so lighter than the back (4 lb), but this one sure isn't. Maybe the previous owner changed them for some reason.

Read more: viewtopic.php?f=126&t=250202#ixzz1FDPlo2mf


Lucky1,

If your measurements are accurate on your scale, you may be right and someone switched the triggers. It's not hard to do and you should be able to tell very easily if that happened. If your gun is a right handed gun, the front trigger should be on the right side (slot) and it should fire the right barrel first.

Grulla is a very high quality maker and I just can't imagine them getting something like the trigger 100% dead wrong.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:01 pm
Posts: 58
Location: MO
Gun was a one owner - like new - stiff & very hard to open. Showed absolutely no evidence of being fired over a few times. Strange.
Shoots where I look, love it. I'll live with the trigger & safety for a while till I need some routine maintenance, then make the changes with the gunsmith.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Sun Feb 27, 2011 11:22 pm 
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Lucky1, just curious as to which trigger is in the front, and which barrel fires for that trigger. The right or the left? As D.D. I can't imagine Grulla got it backwards.

Goldhky

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:04 am 
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I have a Grulla with similar characteristics. Front trigger breaks right around four pounds. Back trigger breaks somewhere under three pounds. I’ve learned, when firing the left barrel, to keep my finger off the trigger until I’m on the bird.

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:28 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:01 pm
Posts: 58
Location: MO
Thanks Kyrie, I'm not alone! This is my 5th DT gun so familiar with which trigger fires which barrel. Front =right, back =left. Maybe set up with light back for tighter choke on driven birds?
Thanks for all the comments,


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 3:11 pm 
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Location: Flathead Valley, MT
The Martin Ugarteburu I just got from Allan is a bit heavy on both triggers. They are both about the same, more than the weight of the gun and in the 7 lb range. My gunsmith wasn't interested in tackling the job to lighten them up a bit as he didn't want to mess up a pin that refused to come out. When I get a chance to soak it in solvent and re-oil it, I'll report back if there are any changes.

Life is always full of exceptions!

MD

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 94
MD - If you don't have any luck with your solvent soak, you might try soaking in a 50/50 mix of dextron ATF and acetone. Good cheap penetrating oil.
I'd be interested in hearing how your trigger job goes. Is the heavy pull a result of bad angles between the sear/tumbler or just crud build up?


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:43 am 
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Location: Flathead Valley, MT
I'm officially highjacking this thread....

Don't know what could be wrong, here's pictures of the right lock:

Image

Image

MD

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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 94
Certainly doesn't look cruddy or pitted but it's hard to tell much more without dis-assembly. My guess would be that angle the sear meets the tumbler is greater then 90 degrees so when the trigger is pulled, the sear lever has to cam the tumbler back slightly (against the mainspring) before it will release instead of just dropping out of engagement. It should be obvious what the problem is when you can isolate those two parts and look closely at how they engage.


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 Post subject: Re: Grulla triggers
PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 11:17 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 26, 2010 11:31 am
Posts: 109
Fellows,

I hope you will continue to follow this problem with pictures. I have a similar situation with a Sarasqueta that I have delayed attacking. No matter how many times I try to smooth out a trigger, I always sweat making any changes other than polish. Misery loves company. I figure the more I look at, the better I may get.


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