I believe that you may be able to remove the bolt handle and then slide the barrel/bolt assembly as a unit out the front, after removing the forend etc.
Then you may be able to tilt the bolt body down enough to free the bolt from the shell and barrel extension.
Now get your cleaning rod to knock out that fired shell and avoid such situations in future.
As a rule, note that some bolt handles are less forgiving to the application of strikes and the brittle ones crack right off (Mossberg semi- auto, for example).
Fired shells can create a jam by having some distortion present from firing expansion that is out of round due to the chamber, and any alteration to rotation (clocking) will place that distortion in a different position, so the high spot is trying to fit in a different and less roomy area.
The problem of using fired shells from another gun is the lack of any similarity and some make no issue, and some make a severe problem where the bolt wedges before it is even closed.
Dirt or crud on the locking block of the bolt may have a lot to do with a stuck bolt, or may have absolutely nothing to do with a specific instance.
I try to get readers to understand that them having anecdotal exposure to a situation is bound to be a limiting factor in gunsmithing diagnosis.
Titlestplayer had it right in relating that his issue was corrected by the cleaning he applied to the parts, once he had them freed. He was straight and to the point and it is up to the reader to understand that the problem of dirt removal may not be the cure for their problem.
He did not state that his issue was from using a fired shell, just that his bolt got stuck.
He did not add information that went beyond his specific condition.
Details of corrective action are just as helpful as details of problem specifics, such as shell type (economy, reloads, high-brass, etc.) and gun condition (new, just-purchased used, just cleaned by neighbor, etc.) and firing environment (range, wet duck blind, etc.).firstname.lastname@example.org