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 Post subject: Ugartechea 1947
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:16 pm 
Utility Grade

Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:00 pm
Posts: 4
Hello!

I recently bought a used side by side 12ga Ugartechea.

Could you help identify the model of the gun and it's possible value?

It has "Ugartechea" written over the right barrel and AYA somewhere bellow the barrels.

I also have the shooting test certificate from 1947.

Thanks!!!

Left side:
https://ibb.co/dr0Dj7
Image

Right side:
https://ibb.co/mD13j7
Image

Certificate:
https://ibb.co/euNb47
Image




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 Post subject: Re: Ugartechea 1947
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:33 am 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:07 pm
Posts: 150
Ugartechea and AyA are different companies. If you post clear pics of the markings on the bottom of the barrels and the action flat, people here will be able to decipher quite a lot about your nice sidelock.


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 Post subject: Re: Ugartechea 1947
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:52 pm 
Utility Grade

Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:00 pm
Posts: 4
Thank you for the reply. I got some more photos from the down side of the barrels, where the numbers are marked.

I was told that at a time AYA fabricated the barrels for Ugartechea, since they are from the same city and AYA had better equipment to fabricate them.

Under the barrel
Symbols: Crossed Shotguns on the left and AYA on the right
Image

Over the barrel
"UGARTECHEA"
Image

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Ugartechea 1947
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:25 pm 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:07 pm
Posts: 150
"1336 gmos" is the weight of your barrels in grams. That's about what my AyA No. 2's 70 CM barrels weigh.

18.5 is your bore diameter, and 18.4 is your choke diameter. That's pretty open, which is good. Can't make out the choke diameter on your tight barrel, it's cut out of the pic.

I like the side clips, rib extension and bolstered receiver.

Hard to tell from the pics, but is there a crack on the right side, just behind the side plate?


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 Post subject: Re: Ugartechea 1947
PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 7:28 am 
Utility Grade

Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:00 pm
Posts: 4
The other choke is 17.6 which I believe is pretty close. Unfortunately there's a little crack but that doesn't affect anything else, also that was one of the reasons why I could buy this gun for a good price.

I just can't find any other Ugartechea like this one. I believe it was custom made on that time (1930/1940). The first owner bought it brand new and shot it just a few times. I'm the second owner, since last year, and was just trying to understand a little more about the shotgun.


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 Post subject: Re: Ugartechea 1947
PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:02 am 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:07 pm
Posts: 150
18.5/18.4 and 18.5/17.6 means you have one loose barrel and one tight barrel, which is typical of an "all-around" gun.

I would send that stock out to have the crack repaired sooner rather than later. It'll be less expensive in the long run, and it will give you more pride of ownership.

Basque gunmakers have always been a very small group. Most of them are really gun "assemblers" rather than gun makers. They all mostly buy parts like actions from the same forging shops. They co-mingle their efforts, subbing out work to the same semi-retired engravers, etc. It's common for guns from different makers to have been worked on by the same people, using the same parts.

AyA is one of the very few companies that makes guns completely in-house, and as you have discovered, sometimes they sell parts to other companies.

Almost all Spanish guns are "custom" in the sense that they are fitted by hand, and not constrained by assembly lines and not much by model numbers. They didn't build many guns for sale "off the rack". When they got an order, they would of course incorporate whatever the buyer wanted and was willing to pay for, and then tend to fit whatever parts were conveniently at hand. So it's not rare to find high-end features on mid-grade guns.

Modern guns are made with materials that are most conducive to machining.

Vintage guns like yours were made with materials that were the best for their purpose. They are relatively simple mechanisms, and they are precisely fitted, so wear is minimal. And they can be tightened up when they do wear. So as long as you don't let it rust or abuse it with too-stout loads, it'll easily last another century.




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