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 Post subject: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:07 pm
Posts: 3
I recently bought a Winchester Model 50, and today took it out to the trap range. I really like this gun, and I love shooting it, but it didn't come with a manual or anything, and I think it is in need of some good cleaning. Hence my question:

Does anybody have any pointers, advice, or instructions on how to disassemble and clean a Model 50?

Even an RTFM response is very welcome, if you could point me to the manual... ;-)

As to my background: I have a number of pistols and rifles, and know my way around those, but I have never owned a shotgun, or any 50-year-old firearm.

Thanks in advance,

-- j


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 7:38 pm
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Location: Panhandle
Lock bolt back, remove forend and barrel, release bolt while holding handle (don't let it slam shut) and ease it forward while working out the floating chamber (tapered lookin piece out the front of the receiver).

Knock pins out and remove trigger. Remove pad, in the center of the tube holding the stock on you will see a wire clip locking the aluminum buffer plug, remove the clip and unscrew the plug, careful though it has spring pressure on it.

Remove the plug and spring-----now, there is a hole on the left side of the receiver, line the pin holding the inertia rod/bolt/bolt handle up with that hole and push the pin thru.

Look well at this as you remove it so you can put it back as is. Move the inertia rod back into the stock and remove bolt.

I use a drill, cleaning rod chucked in the drill, a 20 and 12 gauge brush, and assorted sizes of Scotchbrite wrapped around those brushes for the inside of the inertia tube, barrel, chamber, and floating chamber---with a little oil.

Do the inertia rod tube first, then polish up the rod itself. Barrel/chambers and inside the receiver. Clean the bolt and trigger group. Flush all out with brake cleaner or similar, and I go back with a light coat of Break Free CLP but any good oil will work, on all parts--inside the bolt and trigger.

The one getcha that you have left except reassembling, it is has to be timed. Oil the tube, and I-rod, put the bolt and handle back in, push the inertia rod back in (make sure the arc is up) and get those pieces lined back up and replace the pin.

Put it back together except leave the clip out that locks the plug. Screw the plug in about where it was--with the trigger in lock the bolt back.

Now, you need to screw the plug in til it bottoms out on the back of the rod, then screw back out til the bolt can be moved about 3/16" back from lock. Ease the bolt closed and locked several times rechecking this distance. Once you are certain, turn the plug back out just enough to replace the clip----lined up with locking holes.

This is a wear item, and it needs to remain about this distance, so from time to time check it to make sure it doesn't need to be reset------this is important!!

You can also remove the magazine plug and polish/clean and relube it, should be good for a long while if only occasionally shooting.

Should be ready to go. I probably missed something, doing this all by memory, ask again if something is not clear.

One other thing----check the length of the spring, I think it should be 18" long, if not, stretch it or get a new one----they aren't expensive.

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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:24 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2004 10:09 pm
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Location: IL, CA, AZ
Wow - nice instructions TT. After reading this it makes me gald I didn't buy one! :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:59 am 
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Thanks, it's no big deal and they aren't as complicated as I made it sound. Also helps that a 59 (Winlite, fiberglass barrel) is more or less identical, and was my very first gun when I was 8. But I have a 50 also.

Really good guns, if.........you keep them timed.

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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 1:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:07 pm
Posts: 3
Texas:

Great, that is EXACTLY what I was hoping for. Thanks so much for taking the time and helping this noob along with his new gun.

I probably could have taken it apart *somehow* by just trying all the obvious stuff, but then a pile of springs and associated little bits would have become airborne and I would never have put it back together.

Thanks again for your effort, I really appreciate it.

Cheers,

-- j


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 9:07 pm
Posts: 1519
shootingj - obviously good advice from TT.

I have a new disassemble/assemble Model 50 manual with picture illustrations. If you would like to purchase cheap, pm me. IMHO you will need one for the first couple of complete cleanings. Some say the SX1 and the 50 were the best autos made.


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 5:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:07 pm
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Texas:

Today, with your guidance, I took apart the Model 50, cleaned it, and put it back together again. You were right, once you know what to do, it isn't really a very big deal, but there are a few pitfalls, which I avoided thanks to your advice.

Good heavens, you wouldn't believe the amount of gunk I cleaned out of this gun. It's a miracle that it worked pretty well with all this stuff stuck inside of it. I doubt it has been cleaned a lot, if ever. Once cleaned, the action works beautifully smooth, and the barrel is like a mirror. It does not look like it has been fired an awful lot. Certainly better than I had expected from a gun from 1956.

However, the spring was 11.5'', instead of the 18 you said it is supposed to be. What would be a good place to get a replacement for it?

I have the following questions:

(a) How often would you perform a complete strip-down like this? (Perhaps as opposed to cleaning just the barrel and spraying some CLP into the action from the outside, wiping whatever one can reach without disassembly.)

(b) A complete takedown requires removing the buttplate, which is attached to the butt using two wood screws. It just does not feel like it would be a good idea to screw/unscrew wood screws in the same spot over and over again. Is that an unnecessary concern, and if not, what can I do about it?

---

4th: Thanks for the offer. Even though I think I got through the process with Texas' description, I might still be interested in the manual. I'll send you a PM if I decide to take you up on the offer.

Cheers,

-- j


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 Post subject: Re: Cleaning/Disassembling Winchester Model 50
PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 8:30 am 
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Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 7:38 pm
Posts: 12231
Location: Panhandle
Go here first http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem. ... el=0950z50

I wouldn't worry about it unless shooting 15K rounds a year, then do it every 10K or so, otherwise, if out hunting in the field and it gets alot of trash in it----blow it out/hose down with brake cleaner then blow and reoil. Otherwise once a year, let the conditions it operates in, determine need.

Now, it wouldn't hurt to pop the barrel off---give the chamber/floating chamber a wipe down or brushing and relube every couple of hunting sessions---but if using it every day I would just shoot it and learn when it begins to not feel right.

Your shooting habits/conditions is the biggest factor. An occasional few drops into the inertia tube, trigger, and bolt rails wouldn't hurt a thing though.

Right or wrong, when I use a gun enough to require taking those screws out often, I rub some bar soap on the screws, just a bit and they stay slicked up. My main shooter is a SuperX-1 with almost 187K rounds thru it, but I didn't log in how many times the pad has been off---but several, screw holes are fine.

On any shotgun in this situation, there are several fixes. I usually bore a new hole for a hardwood 3/8 or 1/2" dowel, cut to size then glue it in and redrill. Or they have stainless inserts that can be put in place as well. No biggie.

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