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 Post subject: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 11:12 pm 
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To summarize, my question is: Should the two legs of the link be connected (welded together etc) at the rear where they enter the recoil tube - or should they be free and seperate?

Today my brother and I went to the range and patterned his new 11-87 LH. All told there were 6 or 7 goose loads and about 4 boxes of Remington Game Loads shot through it. No failures at all; very pleased so far with this gun. Upon returning from the range this evening, we broke down the guns and cleaned them. Barrel and rings off, action bars and bolt removed, then all wiped down. We did not drop the trigger group. I was surprised when I tried to put the action bars and the bolt back in, the link seemed to be blocking the bolt travel. Eventually we got the bolt in without forcing it, but the bolt would not travel any further rearward. We then removed the bolt again, dropped the trigger group out, and found the link was not properly in place. It was off the track it slides on, and the rear of the link was not in the recoil tube. I was able to manipulate it back into its proper position by sqeezing the legs together, and the gun was reassembled properly. However I am not sure what to think about this occurance. I have had the 20 ga. Rem autos we have apart often and have never seen a link fall out of place.

This is the first time I have seen an 1100/1187 link out. I just want to confirm that it is not broken. I should have snapped a pic of it but I did not. So I will have to describe it. On page 22 of the Rem Manual, there is a parts diagram, and the link is Part 56, Link. The front half of the link is a guide to engage the rails the link slides on. In the rear, the two "legs" of the link bow together and at the end of the two legs are some rounded half nubs to better mate with the interior of the recoil tube. These legs however are seperated - not constrained by either a ring around the nubs, or a weld bonding them together. I just want to confirm that this is correct. The pic on the parts diagram shows the same link, but shows the legs squeezed together... To me this link looks fine, but right away my brother thought it was broken! He might be right, so I figured I would post to make sure... Should the two legs of the link be connected (welded together etc) at the rear where they enter the recoil tube - or should they be free and seperate as this link is?

I figured I would ask here if it is broken, before trying to check the links on the 20 gauges and end up breaking them....Thanks for any help.

Jeremiah



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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:34 am 
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The link should not be welded. The link can be set in place easiest by squeezing the legs together with pliars while holding the gun upside down with the trigger group out. Place the legs in the recess of the action spring follower. The link is curved and the hump should be up towards the top of the receiver.


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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 7:29 am 
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Was the gun cleaned prior to shooting. Perhaps the re-assembly was a bit off. Look for any scratches in the groove where the link runs inside the receiver. Take the butt stock off and clean the packing grease out of the action tube and spring. Those little knobs at the end of the legs on the link hold it in the small follower cup on top of the action spring.


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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:21 am 
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Rem396 and Nick_PCTEK, are right on target. The link is as it should be.
I have had them come out before while doing a good cleaning, its not uncommon.

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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:43 pm 
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Woohoo, that is what I had hoped. Thank you! Gun was broken down completely including cleaning the recoil spring before it was ever shot. There are few little differences between this gun and the 20 ga guns that I will have to get used to... Magazine cap (does not stay as tight without detent ball), the magazine stop, one piece piston ring assembly ( harder to clean), and that wedge/guide on the rear of the action bar assembly that seems to be there just to kept the barrel square to the receiver. These things all seem proper, just different.

One more thing does seem like it might be wrong. The front of forearm has a metal insert that is not glued on to the front inside of the forearm. This falls off the forearm each time it is removed. The 20 ga. autos either do not have this piece, or it is securely glued on. It actually appears that the 20 gauges do not have this at all, and instead have glass bedding done to reinforce that front area of the forearm. Is it common for this metal brace on the front of the forearm to be loose on a 12 ga. 1187?

Jeremiah

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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 3:24 pm 
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Yes that is the gas compensation ring. Normal to be able to remove it for shooting 3 inch magnum loads. Crank the mag cap tight and check it periodically otherwise you will crack the wood. Everything else is normal for the 12 gauge.


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 Post subject: Re: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:20 pm 
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Nick_PCTEK wrote:
Yes that is the gas compensation ring. Normal to be able to remove it for shooting 3 inch magnum loads. Crank the mag cap tight and check it periodically otherwise you will crack the wood. Everything else is normal for the 12 gauge.


I had thought this part was supposed to be glued in but was not. However since Nick gave me a name for it I checked the diagram. The part is number 45a - Gas Cylinder Collar. Am I to understand this can/should be removed for 3" loads? I don't see mention of it in the book - other than its existence.

Jeremiah

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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 3:26 pm 
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No - sorry long day - it stays on all the time except for cleaning. It is loose normally.


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 Post subject: re: 11-87 Link Question
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:14 pm 
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This is how I learned to remove and replace the trigger group when my 11-87 was brand new. (Letting the link slide forward while the bolt and action bars were removed.)



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