Doug,

Get yourself a can of Bloxygen. I use it with BenMatte or any oil base finish to preserve the remaining finish in the can as new.
You squirt it in the open can and then cap the can. It injects a cover of inert gas over the top of the remaining finish so that oxygen cannot get to the finish and start to cure it.
Using the Bloxygen I can use an entire can with the finish remaining as fresh as when the can was first opened. The finish is unaffected by Bloxygen.

CT

Propane works, too. Just put out your ciggie before squirting it into the can. LOL.

WOB

I've used Minwax Antique Oil Finish thinned by about 30% with BLO with good result. I use numerous hand rubbed coats with an overnight dry time. It's glossy and resistant to mild exposure to water. I don't abuse it, but getting caught in the rain won't ruin your finish. I believe it is a wiping varnish that is tung oil based. Used straight out of the can results in very little working time as it gets tacky fast.

What about TUNG oil? I did a rifle and a table with it 30 years ago both are fine. the most bullet proof finish I have seen. No water rings with mugs left over night just wipe off.
Old Masters is one brand.

Great tip Searun!

Never heard of it but sound like a good idea.

And I will add a vote for Daly's Ben Matte as it is exactly what I love in a wood finish and it's super easy to work with.

Does a whip on poly give you the same “white” ding mark you get on a high gloss Browning factory finish? What if you use a low sheen poly?

Regular Minwax fast dry polyurathane
Boiled linseed oil
Mineral sprits or turpentine depending on how thick your wallet..

These are basic ingrediants for what is know in the finewoodworking community as Sam Maloofs finish! Highly prized for a long time, till he published what it was in a book he wrote..

Original concoction cal for equal parts of each ingredient . so 1/3 poly, boiled linseed, 1/3 mineral spirits..

I have finishe several gun stocks using a variation.

I am not a fan of linseed oil.. 1/3 of it in mix is way to much IMHO..

I mix poly and cut it by just under 50% then I add just a good touch of linseed, mix well
I make sure this first mixture is thin..


The way the finish is applied is to liberally coat the pieceby wiping on the mixture. I use Sotts original "Blue"paper shop towles to wipe on finish with.. You then let the piece sit, til the finish just starts to get slightly tacky.. Then you rub it ALLLLLLL off.. you rub it ALL off with a dry blue towel..

If the piece is large, you work in sections. If a section or your smaller piece gets to tacky to wipe, dont panic, just re wet with a little more finish added to the wet towel you used to apply finish..

The beauty of this finish, is is fool proof! You cant screw it up. You wipe on the finishe, let it sit a bit, wipe it off! You dont have to worry about floatining dust in the air settling on your piece. you have wiped off most all the finishe laying on the top, and hanve left the soaked in penatrating finish in the pores of the wood,

I only usr linseed oil in that first coat. I DO think it helps pop the grain a bit, and adds a bit of color,,, but after that first rubbed off coat is dry to the touch (Not long) then my next coats are poly thinned about a little over 30% with mineral sprits, repeating process wiping on, let sit just a bit ,, then wiping off excess, let dry..

Theses 30% thinned coats are correctly thininned when its easy to wipe on.. thinner, light coats are ALWAYS better.. you repeat till you get the sheen you want..

I find the poly gives great protection from chemicals (But Im still carfull when cleaning) its is a durable, waterproof finish, when given enough coats for a low luster classy sheen..

Easy peasy fool proof..

An example of a small project.

The urn in Center in front of guns is the finish..

also, gun stockss from right to left..

The first two are oil varnish mix.. you can sse the difference in sheen i wanted.. The second stock is a Model 90 winchester 22 shooter, that I wanted a very low sheen,

Then.. still going right to the ,, the first Ruger ( first grip cap with phoenix ) is the finish also. Applied decades ago! stock still looks great! Beet on many hunts in rain and snow... Ruger 77 .270 winchester,, the was knocked off the back of horse,,and stock cracked. forarm invisibly pinned at crack,, and checkering removed.. but looks nice, has held up well.

I am a semi professional woodworker in retirement.. I absolutly LOVE this finish..

Tried and True isnt near as durable comparativly..

Cabinets too..

That’s some nice woodworking!

How do you guys feel about Timberluxe? Thank you.

You can read my review here. It was positive.

https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewto ... Timberluxe

Any suggestions on the best way to obtain a small quantity of Benmatte in Southwest Idaho?
Shipping on a purchase from the manufaturer in NW Washington is pretty high.