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 Post subject: Stevens Bolt fix?
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2020 10:22 am 
Utility Grade

Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2020 9:37 pm
Posts: 2
In the photo is a old Stevens 410ga. Bolt Assembly. It took me near a year and a half of hard searching to find it. It works ok but the head is worn pretty bad and a chip broken out at the rim. In that year and half I never have come across any parts for this bolt assembly except at Numrich. But, I purchased several parts for this bolt from Numrich and none fit. Seems they have their model numbers wrong or something. Next to the bolt assembly is a bolt head that I got from Numrich. It is correct Except for that flat area ground into the side. Notice the flat area on the Numrich head is about a half inch longer than on the bolt assembly. I guess you would call that flat spot a bolt stop. When the bolt is pulled back the edge of that flat spot will hang on the trigger head and stop the bolt from being pulled back to far. Pull the trigger and the bolt can be removed from the gun. I was thinking shape a half inch piece of metal to fit and silver solder in place. Would that work? Would the solder hold? Any other ideas?




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 Post subject: Re: Stevens Bolt fix?
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:38 pm 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:56 pm
Posts: 120
Location: England.
Dublicate post.

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Last edited by Gamekeeper on Mon May 25, 2020 2:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Stevens Bolt fix?
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:38 pm 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:56 pm
Posts: 120
Location: England.
If it was my project gun, I would just keep searching for a complete bolt, even if that ment buying a junker to strip for parts.

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 Post subject: Re: Stevens Bolt fix?
PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:04 am 
Utility Grade

Joined: Fri May 29, 2020 7:03 am
Posts: 3
I am not known for doing things the easiest way, but if it was my project bolt I would make one good bolt from the two. Provided the internal dimensions are identical between the two as well, I would cut your old bolt head forward of the notch, say halfway between the notch and bolt head. Then I would turn a cylindrical section on the old bolt and then bore a mating counter bore into a suitable portion of the bolt head of the new one. Turn a small 45 degree chamfer all around the joint between the two and have it TIG welded. Then dress out the weld and make the metal finish match close as you can. This is how you shorten a Mauser bolt, but they need heat treatment afterwords. Here I think there should be a minimum of heat treat problems. I doubt the Stevens shotgun bolt is heat treated any if at all and even if so a home Casenite treatment would probably be adequate. For proper headspace the original bolt length needs to be exactly duplicated of course, but these two piece pinned Stevens types will wear at the turning point and develop some excess headspace. The usual fix is to put a thin washer in the joint between the bolt halves when this issue develops, but here that issue can be corrected at the same time if it is present. The proper headspace gauge for a .410 would be a disc the .same diameter and thickness of a maximum shell rim, perhaps with a slightly undersized body section to go into the chamber, not a difficult tool to turn. Assemble the bolt, and slip the modified bolt head halves together with the extractor(s) out. Close the bolt on the headspace gauge, and the joint, if fitted to be a tiny distance long, can be tried and shortened a few thousands at a time to get near perfect headspace prior to welding.

Is the gun worth the trouble? Probably not if you calculate your time and materials. That, however; is like calculating the cost of gas, time, and bait when you fish. We do these projects for enjoyment, and that is hardly work. Any old gun has it's charm.


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