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 Post subject: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger - Updated - successful repair thanks
PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 4:39 pm 
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https://imgur.com/gallery/kyRZTD5
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I shot multiple light reloads, then 1 shell Kent Bismuth #4....trigger stops working. I was able to find the problem which you can see in the picture. The top of the trigger broke where the pin that retains the doohicky that trips the sear goes through. Clearly patterning the gun with new ammo in hopes of hunting ducks is out the window :roll:

I was able to find a part on Numrich. Hopefully there aren't multiple types of the same part, this gun is circa 1968.

My question isn't necessarily how to fix it....appears to be put the new trigger in, insert spring, insert retaining pins. More along the lines of:

Is this a common failure? Or have I done something that caused this in terms of abuse or failure of maintenance? This was my grandfather's gun I would like to keep it running and maybe kill another duck (2 ducks even) this season.

Thanks, John




Last edited by makintrax73 on Wed Sep 09, 2020 3:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 6:32 pm 
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Numrich has them. Something screwy on their website. Look under 11-87, same part. New $21.50, used $6.75. I have only seen one broken like yours in 57 years.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 6:38 am 
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Virginian wrote:
Numrich has them. Something screwy on their website. Look under 11-87, same part. New $21.50, used $6.75. I have only seen one broken like yours in 57 years.



Thanks, it did not look to be a part with any substantial load so I was surprised. Perhaps the pin was staked incorrectly with too much force and it showed up after 50 years. In any case a new one is on the way.


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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 10:12 am 
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You might want to just buy a complete used one on eBay.


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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 9:24 pm 
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RUT wrote:
You might want to just buy a complete used one on eBay.



Never even thought to look!! Brownells was out of them, so I looked at Numrich and found the part. Looks like I could've had a complete spare for $50.


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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 5:55 pm 
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I would clean up the break joint(s) with a file and then epoxy the two pieces back together. After the epoxy has set real well, use a file to smooth out the proud edges of epoxy and then reassemble the trigger assembly and try it out.

What have you got to lose other than a little time? If epoxy will hold a golf club head on a golf shaft (and it will) with all the torque that's generated when hitting a golf ball, then I see no reason why it won't work here. Use some good high-strength epoxy and clean the mating surfaces real well. Make sure the parts are aligned correctly.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 10:34 am 
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Ulysses wrote:
I would clean up the break joint(s) with a file and then epoxy the two pieces back together. After the epoxy has set real well, use a file to smooth out the proud edges of epoxy and then reassemble the trigger assembly and try it out.

What have you got to lose other than a little time? If epoxy will hold a golf club head on a golf shaft (and it will) with all the torque that's generated when hitting a golf ball, then I see no reason why it won't work here. Use some good high-strength epoxy and clean the mating surfaces real well. Make sure the parts are aligned correctly.

I had a fool gunsmith try something similar to silver-braze the hammer back together (cross-drilled to lighten it) on my Light 12 Auto-5.

Well, it fired.
Once.

Then the gun rattled again.

New hammer, not cross-drilled any more, no more problems.

You can be assured there was more surface bonding area on that Golf Club head than there is on those trigger ears.

A golf club head, on a shaft, which is heavy, and hits a real light ball, which puts very little force against the club head itself.
Not nearly as impressive as it looks on TV.

I love a good strong epoxy, I use several of them, some industrial ones at w**k, they have their uses, they are NOT the miracle glue some people think they are.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 11:45 am 
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OldStufferA5#1911 wrote:
Ulysses wrote:
I would clean up the break joint(s) with a file and then epoxy the two pieces back together. After the epoxy has set real well, use a file to smooth out the proud edges of epoxy and then reassemble the trigger assembly and try it out.

What have you got to lose other than a little time? If epoxy will hold a golf club head on a golf shaft (and it will) with all the torque that's generated when hitting a golf ball, then I see no reason why it won't work here. Use some good high-strength epoxy and clean the mating surfaces real well. Make sure the parts are aligned correctly.

I had a fool gunsmith try something similar to silver-braze the hammer back together (cross-drilled to lighten it) on my Light 12 Auto-5.

Well, it fired.
Once.

Then the gun rattled again.

New hammer, not cross-drilled any more, no more problems.

You can be assured there was more surface bonding area on that Golf Club head than there is on those trigger ears.

A golf club head, on a shaft, which is heavy, and hits a real light ball, which puts very little force against the club head itself.
Not nearly as impressive as it looks on TV.

I love a good strong epoxy, I use several of them, some industrial ones at w**k, they have their uses, they are NOT the miracle glue some people think they are.


LOL! There are so many non-comparable comparisons and irrelevancies in your post that it's amusing, but you're entitled to your opinions. :)

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 12:31 pm 
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Any adhesive in shear will be far stronger than in tension.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 1:15 pm 
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The broken part doesn't appear to be a high pressure or high stress part. There is no impact on it. It's not subject to any pounding or recoil forces. It simply rotates around the fixed pin in order to move the sear which will release the hammer. Or, at least that's the way it looks to me.

As I said above, it costs nothing to attempt this repair other than perhaps a few cents worth of epoxy and a little of your time. It's probably about a 30 minute job. It costs essentially nothing to try and it hurts nothing even if it doesn't work, so what's the big concern? If all else fails, you can spend $20 (or whatever) and buy the replacement part. It's no big deal either way.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 2:06 pm 
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Fix it and buy another trigger group. You will need it. It's an 1100.


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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 5:38 pm 
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lt0026 wrote:
Fix it and buy another trigger group. You will need it. It's an 1100.

Bulls**t.

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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:11 pm
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Virginian wrote:
lt0026 wrote:
Fix it and buy another trigger group. You will need it. It's an 1100.

Bulls**t.



C’mon ! Don’t hold back.......


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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2020 9:25 pm 
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Virginian wrote:
lt0026 wrote:
Fix it and buy another trigger group. You will need it. It's an 1100.

Bulls**t.



C’mon ! Don’t hold back....... :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Broken Rem 1100 Trigger
PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2020 3:52 pm 
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Received the parts. I was unaware that a new trigger would have to be file fit, but that appears to be the case. I had to file a bit of the nubs off the back of the trigger to allow enough movement to trip the sear.

Then the nubs off the top of the trigger assembly to allow enough forward trigger movement to engage the safety.

Perhaps a job better done by a gunsmith. In any case with a little head scratching and figuring I was able to get the trigger locked near solid with the safety engaged, while retaining enough motion to trip the sear with the safety disengaged.

Passed bench test with previously fired shells for firing when it's supposed to, and not firing when jarred against a solid surface. Will test fire, but I believe it worked out.




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