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 Post subject: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:04 pm
Posts: 16
Hi guys,

I need to Cerekote a barrel set from a Citori. The process requires 300 degrees for 60 - 90 minutes.

Does anybody happen to know where the melting point on the solder used for these barrels would be?

Thanks
Jim




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 Post subject: Re: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 2:05 pm 
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Posts: 9174
Location: Rochester, NY
It may depend on the exact age of the barrels. IIRC the earliest Citoris would have been soft soldered.

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 Post subject: Re: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 3:32 pm 
Shotgun Expert
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Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2006 11:02 am
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Location: Plainfield, IL
jfreeman wrote:
Hi guys,

I need to Cerekote a barrel set from a Citori. The process requires 300 degrees for 60 - 90 minutes.

Does anybody happen to know where the melting point on the solder used for these barrels would be?

Thanks
Jim



Hot salt bluing tanks run 292 degrees F. or higher. It is called "no problem" but if you need specifics call Art's Gun Shop. https://artsgunshop.com/

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 Post subject: Re: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 5:18 pm 
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RandyWakeman wrote:
jfreeman wrote:
Hi guys,

I need to Cerekote a barrel set from a Citori. The process requires 300 degrees for 60 - 90 minutes.

Does anybody happen to know where the melting point on the solder used for these barrels would be?

Thanks
Jim



Hot salt bluing tanks run 292 degrees F. or higher. It is called "no problem" but if you need specifics call Art's Gun Shop. https://artsgunshop.com/


Except soft soldered barrels can't be hot blued either, they have to be rust blued if you want the barrels to remain in one piece. Poor advise!

I seem to recall reading somewhere that the earliest Citoris (from the 70s) were soft soldered. It appears the Miroku Dalys of that era were soft soldered, and the earliest Citoris were basically rebadged versions of the Miroku Daly. If your gun has the rounded action and screw chokes, I'd think you're pretty safe, if it's fixed choke and the half square half round action, you may be in danger.

Arts or Midwest should be able to help.

Be careful taking advise that will lead you to taking your barrel out of the oven in pieces, I made that mistake trying to GunKote a Stoeger Condor and all three ribs popped off in the process.

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S3 Smingler Shotgun Sports
Ian Smingler
[email protected]
http://www.sminglershotgunsports.com

Manufacturer of Custom Brass Barrel Weights for over/under, top single, and unsingle shotguns.


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 Post subject: Re: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 7:24 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2020 6:34 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Buffalo NY USA
Most soft solders melt between 350F and 400F. At 300F, it will not be melted, but it will be soft and mushy -- and probably fall apart from its own weight. I wouldn't chance it.

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 Post subject: Re: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 3:57 pm 
Shotgun Expert
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Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2006 11:02 am
Posts: 27173
Location: Plainfield, IL
jfreeman wrote:
Hi guys,

I need to Cerekote a barrel set from a Citori. The process requires 300 degrees for 60 - 90 minutes.

Does anybody happen to know where the melting point on the solder used for these barrels would be?

Thanks
Jim


Every time you fire a shotgun, you are putting 5000 degree F. gas through the barrels. Note the comments from Bruce Buck on hot barrels.

Quote:
My main concern with shooting the guns so hot is the solder which holds on the top and side ribs. Conventional soft solder will definitely come loose if the barrels are shot too hot for too long. I believe that your F3 has the top rib welded on, but the side ribs use a higher temperature soft solder. That should be better, but not impervious to excessive heat. Zolis use durable high heat silver solder, but Perazzis use lower heat soft solder so as not to warp the barrels when they are being soldered together. Perazzi ribs are notorious for coming loose after being shot a lot. Belgian Brownings usually were soft soldered (and thus eventually had loose ribs), but they also has come silver soldered barrels in some FN models. With the Berettas, it depends on the model. The problem with high temperature silver solder and welding is that the high heat used to attach the ribs can warp the barrels, especially if they are thin. Soft solder is much lower heat and won’t move carefully laid barrels, but it will come off sooner or later. Take your pick.

Bottom line: shooting the barrels too hot will loosen the soft soldered ribs. Silver soldered ribs last longer, but can also come loose eventually. Welded ribs don’t come loose due to heat. To be safe, my rule of thumb is that when my barrels become too hot to touch with a bare hand, I let things cool off a bit.

Best regards,
Bruce Buck
Shotgun Report’s Technoid


Cerakote is paint. It doesn't necessarily need heat at all to cure, but heat is used to speed up the process. Its use is not limited to metal.

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 Post subject: Re: Barrel solder temps on Brownining Citori
PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2021 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:30 am
Posts: 727
Location: Massachusetts
Cerakote also makes an air cure product, just sayin.




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