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 Post subject: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:51 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2005 9:58 pm
Posts: 22
I see best guns with a leather covered recoil pad and I am wondering how this cover is applied. There do not appear to be any holes in the pad, so I am really curious how the cover is applied to the pad and how the pad is attached to the stock.

Does anyone know how this is accomplished? It looks like it ought to be something that I could do at home but I've not been able to find information on how to do it.

Any advice is appreciated.

I know that there are slip-on and lace-on leather recoil pads but I am solely interested in these old style leather or leather covered pads.

Thanks for any info you have.




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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:01 pm 
Utility Grade

Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2006 4:21 pm
Posts: 6
See Shotgun Technica chapter 11 '' A Leather Covered Butt'' by Michael McIntosh and David Trevallion. Galazan and Ballistic Products carry this book. Interesting read.


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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 5:31 am 
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Posts: 6876
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kknippa, Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a copy of a great 6 page how-to .pdf file (Adobe Acrobat) with color pics. May take a few days as I'm on the road right now.

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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 7:04 pm 
Crown Grade

Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2005 9:35 am
Posts: 3477
Location: Rochester, NY
I read an article years ago explaining how to to this, I no longer have the article and remember little of it,,, I kick myself for not saving it and more for not remembering it. At the time I wasn't interested,,, but now, it sounds like a GREAT way to go and VERY classy indeed.


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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 1:02 pm
Posts: 5659
Location: Wenatchee, Washington
KKnippa,
If you find a leather covered pad that has no holes in the back, it has been glued on the stock. That is not the best method if you ever want to remove the pad and not have to replace it. I have read of a method that does not use holes and it did have merit until you had to take the pad off. The plugs do not look bad if they are done properly.

The proper way to do it is to cut two cylindrical holes centered on the pad screw holes and then cover those holes with leather covered plugs.

To begin with the pad is fitted to the contours of the stock. Then you scribe a mark around the bottom of the pad about 1/2 to 3/4 the thickness of the pad and remove that material. If you remove the pad to the thickness of the leather you will have a proud wood edge where the leather rolls under the pad. The pad is covered with the leather on a jig.I made my jig out of a small 22 rifle stock. It is smaller than the pad and allows me to wrap the leather under the pad while it is drying. The pad is covered on the top and part way down the sidew with Barge Cement, a contact adhesive. I save those wide rubber bands that come on bunches of broccoli and use those as "clamps" at the base of the pad and around the jig. The leather is soaked in water and stretched onto the pad and under the rubber bands and the wrinkles are pulled out. This takes some practice. You can do the practice by not applying the glue to the pad. After the leather dries it will be glued to the pad. I then take it off and trim the leather round the base so it is about 3/8" beyond the edge. I then cut darts and coat the bottom side of the darts and the bottom of the pad with the Barge cement. Let the cement dry and then push the darts udner the pad.

Now you have to cut the slits in the holes that you had drilled into the top of the pads. ( you may have missed me saying that because you either were not paying attention or I missed it). I use small scissors and again cut darts and applying glue to the uderside of the darts ( a bit tricky) and to the sides of the holes, I glue the leather into the holes. Then I build a plug of a diameter slighly smaller that the hole and cover it with leather in the same fashion. The plug can be made out of wood and it does not seem to be noticeable to the shoulder. I prefer to make them out of rubber if it is available.

I then dye the leather to the color I want and burnish some lines around the base to add some class to the product. The screws are then installed through the holes and the plugs are put in place.

Duane Weibe wrote an article in the ACGG Gunmaker magazine about installing pads. He said the first time he had seen them, he had asked the gunsmith what kind of leather to use. He was told to go a leather shop and ask for bulls ball sack tanned leather because it already had the rounded shape. Off he went to a leather shop and after the owner had a good laugh he informed Duane that he had been had. On that note, almost any leather can be used but the thicker the leather the more difficult it is to work the wrinkle out. I use Tandy, liner leather in a pigskin. It looks good and finshes well.

After I get the product done I coat it with some NeatLac. Apply a few coats and refresh it as it starts to look used.

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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 11:31 am 
Field Grade

Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:13 pm
Posts: 93
The leather recoil pad on a Perazzi is glued on. But a competent gunsmith can easily replace it.


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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 12:44 pm 
Crown Grade
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Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:59 am
Posts: 6541
Location: Neosho, MO
This is a picture of a leather covered pad done by Larry Feland of Cypress, TX. Larry does very nice work, but you will notice his leather covered pad does have leather covered plugs allowing access to the pad mounting screws. Larry uses Pachmayer Decelerator recoil pads to shape and fit before covering in leather. There are multiple craftsmen who do leather covered pads in this fashion.

Image

http://www.felandgunsmith.com/stock-work

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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:20 pm
Posts: 23372
Rich Cole has a you tube video where he goes from start to finish showing how he snips here and there, wets and stretches, and glues, etc. Process takes a couple of days to do.

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Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience, George Carlin


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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 3:09 pm
Posts: 699
Location: Massachusetts
Critical to this process is using VERY thin leather.


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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 5:48 pm 
Crown Grade
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:20 pm
Posts: 23372
Yes, Rich skives the leather with some specialty German tool
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JvSp0hIaNA

Worth the 25 minutes watching time

_________________
The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price has faded from memory, Aldo Gucci

Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience, George Carlin


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 Post subject: Re: Leather Covered Recoil Pad
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2021 1:57 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Mon Dec 25, 2017 10:09 pm
Posts: 32
Customstox wrote:
KKnippa,
If you find a leather covered pad that has no holes in the back, it has been glued on the stock. That is not the best method if you ever want to remove the pad and not have to replace it. I have read of a method that does not use holes and it did have merit until you had to take the pad off. The plugs do not look bad if they are done properly.

The proper way to do it is to cut two cylindrical holes centered on the pad screw holes and then cover those holes with leather covered plugs.

To begin with the pad is fitted to the contours of the stock. Then you scribe a mark around the bottom of the pad about 1/2 to 3/4 the thickness of the pad and remove that material. If you remove the pad to the thickness of the leather you will have a proud wood edge where the leather rolls under the pad. The pad is covered with the leather on a jig.I made my jig out of a small 22 rifle stock. It is smaller than the pad and allows me to wrap the leather under the pad while it is drying. The pad is covered on the top and part way down the sidew with Barge Cement, a contact adhesive. I save those wide rubber bands that come on bunches of broccoli and use those as "clamps" at the base of the pad and around the jig. The leather is soaked in water and stretched onto the pad and under the rubber bands and the wrinkles are pulled out. This takes some practice. You can do the practice by not applying the glue to the pad. After the leather dries it will be glued to the pad. I then take it off and trim the leather round the base so it is about 3/8" beyond the edge. I then cut darts and coat the bottom side of the darts and the bottom of the pad with the Barge cement. Let the cement dry and then push the darts udner the pad.

Now you have to cut the slits in the holes that you had drilled into the top of the pads. ( you may have missed me saying that because you either were not paying attention or I missed it). I use small scissors and again cut darts and applying glue to the uderside of the darts ( a bit tricky) and to the sides of the holes, I glue the leather into the holes. Then I build a plug of a diameter slighly smaller that the hole and cover it with leather in the same fashion. The plug can be made out of wood and it does not seem to be noticeable to the shoulder. I prefer to make them out of rubber if it is available.

I then dye the leather to the color I want and burnish some lines around the base to add some class to the product. The screws are then installed through the holes and the plugs are put in place.

Duane Weibe wrote an article in the ACGG Gunmaker magazine about installing pads. He said the first time he had seen them, he had asked the gunsmith what kind of leather to use. He was told to go a leather shop and ask for bulls ball sack tanned leather because it already had the rounded shape. Off he went to a leather shop and after the owner had a good laugh he informed Duane that he had been had. On that note, almost any leather can be used but the thicker the leather the more difficult it is to work the wrinkle out. I use Tandy, liner leather in a pigskin. It looks good and finshes well.

After I get the product done I coat it with some NeatLac. Apply a few coats and refresh it as it starts to look used.


I've done leather covered pads that are not glued on and have no holes. They also are removeable in a second.




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