The de prime die is a fixed die(non adjustable), so this is a stroke issue. To check for full stroke on a MEC progressive check part #21, the link spacer between parts #22 and #23, the left and right link arms. At full handle down part #21 should just "kiss" the back side of the center column. If it does not not something is stopping your press from a complete stroke.

Steve

My 410 Grabber works great, after lots of work, but suddenly the other about 1 in 100 won’t seat the new primer—goes about half into the pocket, stops and locks the shell carrier. Damned if I know why. Being 410, I take my time (6 boxes an hour), make sure to fully stroke, but still happens.

Because the die spring in station 2 is weak/worn out. I have replaced mine, after calling MEC and that fixed the issue. It is the only one out of the 4 machines I own that I have had to replace, but the newest and least used. Go figure.

Steve

If you are trying to reload Remington .410 hulls there is a well known problem if trying to seat non Remington primers. I experienced this myself then switched to Remington STS primers and the problem completely disappeared

A lot of the common problems with MEC progressives, can be fixed with common remedies shared here on SGW. But that doesn't mean they are not common problems.

Like:

Adding washers to the charge bar, so the bar doesn't stick.

Adding a second lock nut to the bar activation mechanism, so the bar always travels full stroke, or else the nut slowly backs off.

Putting a double lock collar on the powder drop tube, so it doesn't back up in to the press.

To pretend these aren't common problems with MEC is just ridiculous!

I actually had a deprime tool get loose in a 9000 press once, just ever so slightly, but this resulted in some of the primers not coming all the way out. Once I discovered it, and tightened it, problem went away.

Not sure how or why, perhaps the tool was at a little bit of an angle of something, but it wasn't knocking them all out. Tightening it back up fixed it.

I backed off the crimp 1/2 turn and that from fixed it . Question is , why did it start in the first place .

Some taller hulls which could have stopped you from full stroking the machine is my guess.

Steve

Marshfield, go for it. You'll never regret it. You deserve it, are entitled to it and you earned it. Life's too short. You owe it to yourself.

Thanks Nebs. Can you do me a favor and call my wife?

It's funny that so many users responded so quickly in defense of MECs, and then there was a nice parade of MEC owners that detailed their various, but not uncommon, issues and complaints with these machines. So, I guess that these really are as delicate as moths' wings.

Your example seems to disprove your claim that MEC needs too much adjustment.

This is what you will find, when buying a different brand of reloader. Issues unique to that reloader.

They all are mechanical, they all need maintenance, at some point they all will have a part wear out or break.

I have 5 MEC reloaders.

A 20 gauge 600 Jr. (not Mark V) no issues. Added a Multiscale charge bar.

1 - 16 ga. Sizemaster, 1 - 12 ga. Sizemaster. Both have Multiscale bars.

A 9000G16, replaced the bar with a Multiscale bar, added a bottle support, replaced the primer feed with the 200 primer feed. Under warranty the gas spring went bad. MEC replaced the gas spring at no charge. The link on the sizing collet broke. The bolt on the top of the machine that the linkage attaches to broke.

A 9000H12, added a bottle support, replaced the bar with a Multiscale and added the 200 primer feed.

My complaints, the old primer feeds on the 9000 series, especially on the 9000G16 were not all that reliable. Though the 100 primer feed on the 9000H12 never was a big issue. The MEC shot bars need to be redesigned, as they never drop as much shot as they should. Powder bushings are fine.

I have never had any issues with anything else. The newest machine is the 9000H12 and it is now 26 years old. The 9000G16 is either 29 or 30 years old. The Sizemasters are both over 30 years old. The 600 Jr. is 47 years old.

The 9000's are only used for target loads. The Sizemasters mostly for hunting loads and experimenting. The 600 Jr, was used for target and hunting loads, but I don't use the 600 any where near as much as I used to.

I am always experimenting with something, which means I am always adjusting these machines......no issues getting them dialed back into the loads I normally use.

I am pretty happy with how the MEC machines work and I like the ease of adjustments to handle many different loads, shell lengths and shot types.

When changing brands of reloading machines you are simply trading one set of issues for another. NONE are perfect. ALL have issues. They are mechanical machines. Sooner or later you WILL have a problem

A final thought.

I believe the manually operated 9000 series machines suffer some issues that 'H' & Automate models don't.

Adjust them correctly, once, and they are not in "constant need of adjustment".

Bingo!
Once they are right any changes in shell crimping is a result of poor hull consistency.

Federal hulls are far worse. I once got so frustrated trying to load Federals that I got out my calipers and measured the depth. On the Federal hulls I had on hand that depth varied as much as 1/4 inch. Once I saw that I tossed every Federal hull in the trash.

With Remington 12 gage it took me a bit of time to find the "happy medium" but now that it's set I can load shells without doing an tweaking on the press and yeah I do get an occasional center jam and an occasional dog dish but from the standpoint of function I am getting 100% functional shells that don't leak. With the 20 gage it gets even better with over or under crimps being rare, perhaps about 1 in 200.

Scooter,

You are very far off base concerning Federal hulls. There are 4 different maroon Federal hulls.

(1) Gold Medals which are all plastic. The Federal Gold Medal tube and basewad are all made from the same piece of plastic, but very much unlike any other 1 piece hull.

(2) Federal Hi-Power, which have the paper basewad such as Top Gun hulls.

(3) Top Gun hulls which are like a RIO or Cheddite hull, with a separate plastic basewad.

(4)Federal hulls with .090" basewad, a very high capacity hull pretty much unsuitable for typical target loads.

From the outside all Federal hulls kinda sorta look the same if you aren't paying attention, but inside they are very different.

I reload a lot of Federal hulls. They only vary when you have a mixture of the 4 different types of hulls. Federal hulls are actually very consistent from an OAL perspective, and crimp consistently......as long as you are using only one type of Federal hull at a time.

Identifying the type of hull that you are using is reloading 101 and the very first step in successful shotshell reloading.

My $100 used 9000 was paid off 50,000 reloads ago. I took my Spolar money and spent it on shooting extra birds at the range.