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 Post subject: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 9:46 am 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
Good morning from the Northeast, Talc vs Graphite powder or a mix of both for lube on the Hornady 366 charge bar. And I used the Harbor F 1/2 ton press to straighten the 366 shell plate, The primers drop a little better now, I do use the MEC 9000, but i got a free Hornady 366 to try and see if i like it. I have taken it apart but could not get the pivot shaft out of the base.I am now buying some seals and shot bushing, and the MEC bushing holder. It looks like a tank of a loader. My Mec is set for 1oz loads and maybe i will set this up for 7/8th loads. The machine cleans up nice, and i used the do it yourself gun blue. I still want to take the shaft out of the base and clean it up but the Hornady tech suggested a pass on removing. So far the station 1A ,1 , 2 and 3 are adjusted. wait on parts to start the 7/8 load.
Happy Shotgunning TonyD




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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 10:42 am 
Tournament Grade

Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2013 8:10 am
Posts: 190
I use a spray lubricant that leaves behind a dry layer of Teflon after the carrier fluid dries. Don’t recall the name but I picked it up at Lowe’s and it is in a white and yellow can. I put a thin layer of super line grease on the bottom of the shell plate where it rises on the raised area of the bottom casting. There are holes in the casting where you can put a drop of oil for the rod on which the handle
Is mounted.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 12:01 pm 
*Proud to be a*
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:25 am
Posts: 4660
Location: Annapolis, MD
I use paste wax on the charge bar itself and spray graphite on the inside of the measure casting. And on bent shell plates, I recently learned they get bent from the primer drop tube being adjusted too low. I just got mine back from Hornady for the once a decade factory refurb. I sent some bent shell plates with it and they put them back to factory spex. The tech who called me said they are supposed to be a bit convex. I counted the number of threads above the lock nut on the primer tube and made a note of it so I don't make it too low in the future.

And I agree with the tech on removing the pivot shaft. Take the platen off and use some spray solvent to clean any gunk out, you should be able to do a pretty good job on it.

And, there is a great thread here on lubricating the 366, do a search for it, about 2-3 pages long with lots of good tips. I have a bookmark on it on my other computer. If you can't find it, let me know and I will post it next time I'm using it. I think there also is a 366 thread on tips and tricks sticky at the top of the reloading forum. There might be a link to it there.

Once you get it up and running, we can talk about modifications.

_________________
Ceteris paribus, of course.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 1:53 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
should have all the parts in a few weeks and spent shells. I did notice a cracked shot tube, looking for one now, thanks TD


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:25 am
Posts: 4660
Location: Annapolis, MD
When it comes time to adjust the final crimp die, there is variation depending on whether you are using a Win AAHS hull or something else. The Hornady website, under their FAQ, has some information that tells you how many threads above the jamb nut to adjust and the number is different if you are using a AACF or a AAHS. The adjustment for Rem hulls should be about the same as the AACF.

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Ceteris paribus, of course.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2020 10:06 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
Hello I just installed the new rubber powder and shot rubber measure seal. Now the charge bar is bound up and the rubber measure seal is rolling over. It is too big, I put the old ones back in and the charge bar moves fine. I will call the fine folks at Hornady and find out if the measure seal are different, is this and issue with older machines? I will give them the serial number off the 366, My bushing are in transit and I should be running the machine in a few days.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 3:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:25 am
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Location: Annapolis, MD
One way to extend the life of the seals is to flip them over.

_________________
Ceteris paribus, of course.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2020 5:26 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
I spoke with a gentleman from Hornady. I told him what is happening with the charge bar binding. They are sending me two new measure seals, he asked if the charge bar was worn down. I do not know, seeing this is my first 366, it looks fine, he did not know the measurements of the charge bar at the time of our conversation.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:07 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
My parts came in, and I reloaded 100 GunClubs 7/8 shot and 17.5 grs of RedDot. They came out nice, I did forget to put a wad in one shell, and a finished shell tipped in the final station and got crunched.I am having issue with shell tipping in the primer station and the ram nicks the shell mouth on the way down, Need to work on the wad depth, and final crimp. The starter crimp has a primer sit on top and not fall in, The book says 5/8th inch from top of lead to the shell mouth, that seems excessive, my only concern is the primer station, I did take it apart and clean it, maybe i did something wrong when I installed it. Best Regards TonyD


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:25 am
Posts: 4660
Location: Annapolis, MD
Your issue at the primer station might be caused by the hull not being centered under the primer punch. Adjusting the shell plate advance might work to center it. The auto-advance adjustment is under the platen, on the base. You loosen the eccentric bolt and advance or retard using a screwdriver.

The crimp die body should be showing between 7 and 9 threads above the jam nut and make adjustments to the center as appropriate to get the crimp depth where you want it.

_________________
Ceteris paribus, of course.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:46 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
I reread my post, one gentleman mentions a convex shot shell plate.Does that mean the ends of the shell plate flare up? I have my shell plate straight, any tricks to put the convex back into the convex shell plate? I have a press,maybe put a small nut under each hole on the shell plate ears and press the middle down, all i need to figure out the size of the space under the ears and the size of the press end fitting, I wish i had a drawing or side view of the plate. It works now,but why not go for perfection, I am most concerned with the primer seating depth. The advance is spot on, and the crimp adjustment is at 11 threads,per instructions for Remington hulls, It might e pre-crimp and center punch on the crimp station. Could the wad and shot height be causing a not so factory crimp? Thanks TonyD


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 4:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:25 am
Posts: 4660
Location: Annapolis, MD
With regard to the shell plate being convex, I was just passing on what the tech at Hornady told me when he called me while he was doing the refurb. on my 366. He said they had a machine that did it. I have no specifications and I would not have thought the plate was convex until the tech mentioned it. If it's convex, it's ever so slight. And I took it to mean the petals flared upward. The cause of shell plate bending is a primer drop tube that is adjusted too low.

And, you mention a bunch of stuff in your post and it might be helpful to break them out and elaborate a bit on each one. For instance, you mention a problem at the primer station but you don't say just what it is.

Just trying to help you get it up and running. It sounds like all you might need is an adjustment here and there.

On the wad seating, what is the issue there? Does your press have the wad pressure indicator? If it does, adjust the wad ram until the indicator just wiggles a bit and the run the ram back up about 1/4 turn.

_________________
Ceteris paribus, of course.


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 Post subject: Re: Talc,Graphite and the 366 shell plate
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:51 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 12:46 am
Posts: 83
Nebs wrote:
With regard to the shell plate being convex, I was just passing on what the tech at Hornady told me when he called me while he was doing the refurb. on my 366. He said they had a machine that did it. I have no specifications and I would not have thought the plate was convex until the tech mentioned it. If it's convex, it's ever so slight. And I took it to mean the petals flared upward. The cause of shell plate bending is a primer drop tube that is adjusted too low.

And, you mention a bunch of stuff in your post and it might be helpful to break them out and elaborate a bit on each one. For instance, you mention a problem at the primer station but you don't say just what it is.

Just trying to help you get it up and running. It sounds like all you might need is an adjustment here and there.

On the wad seating, what is the issue there? Does your press have the wad pressure indicator? If it does, adjust the wad ram until the indicator just wiggles a bit and the run the ram back up about 1/4 turn.

Thanks for the advise, I did a 100 shells today and it went well, Thanks TonyD




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