300MP vrs. 296 2 1/2"?
With Win296 what is the real hull life for 2 1/2" hulls? I get 10 reloads of 3" WIn HS hulls using 300MP but may five with the AA410HS 2 1/2" and it is the ends that just get spit and toasty.
Not been an issue only shooting 300 2 1/2" rounds per year, but am now thing using 2 1/2" for my main sporting clay load. $96 per flat verses $155 for the 3" and for competition they are required. Plus using a progressive loader that handle the primers and they are the cheapest to reload to boot.
I shot the 1/2 ouncers for three weeks prior to a shoot and know they will break any target out to 35 yards with #8.5 shot.

I just got into 410 shooting. First a 870, then because I didn't like looking for hulls to reload when shooting SCs I went to a Dickinson SxS. I wish I would have seen your post about the diference in using 410 or 300MP, and hull life. I just split a 8# jug of 410 with a friend. I would like to try the 300MP.

This will NOT answer your question, but may give you a frame of reference. I load Alliant 410 powder in Win AA (2.5" hulls) and track the number of reloads per box of 25. I reload them 8 times and them toss them without any regard to condition. As a general rule, the loss rate of hulls that get tossed before the 8th reload is less than 10%. I used to load 296 powder about 20 years ago with the older CF Win hulls and experienced the same hull life - reload 8 times and toss without regard to condition. I did try using Lil Gun powder for a short time, but hull life wouldn't last beyond 4 reloads. I then used 2400 powder until Alliant brought out their 410 powder. Haven't looked back since then. I know some real penny pinchers that will load hulls beyond what is reasonable and prudent, but I think 8 reloads from 410 hulls is a good place to stop reloading them.

I find this very interesting because it is the same plastic in both hulls.



Some of mine last 4-5 and split out the sides, others last until the crimps get crispy, 8-10.

Steve

I used 300mp for the last 2 skeet seasons. Going back to 410. Can't tell any difference in hull life. I'm pushing 228gr of shot above 1250.

My experience is similar to dubob's.
I'm using 300-MP most of the time.
I may have a burnout along the way, no big issue. I too give up on the AAHS hulls at eight reloads.
I was gifted about three pounds of Alliant 410 last year. It burned a slit in the side of a few more hulls than the 300-MP and still went for eight reloads.
The next time I need powder I'll choose whichever is less expensive.

On a side issue, I switched from H-110 to 300-MP to get the increased velocity without increased pressure. I've gone back to 1150-1200fps. I honestly believe that 1300 is great for skeet but not for sporting clays. The hotspot that you eliminate driving the shot at 1300 blows out the pattern at sporting clays distances.
I bring this up because I like the attention.

The problem here is individuals define “hull life” differently. I shoot 296 in AAcf hulls exclusively and I have no problem getting 10 reloads. As long as the crimp or what’s left of it holds the shot in, I’m fine with it. And I have chronographed some of those multi loaded hulls and find no real differences in velocities. I don’t load them hot: 15.5 gr of 296 breaks birds all day long. I’ll stick with what I’m doing as long as I get these results

What powder of the 296, 410 or 300mp, is the best for metering, no leakage, etc. I'm using h110 and it doesnt seem bad to me on mec9000, but have wondered about tbe other two. Thx

296 and 110 are ball powders and I think 300 is too. Not sure about 410. Using a good brass washer and grommet I never had any significant problems. I bought a bunch of red baffles a few years ago and they seal very well, but I hear that they are now hard to find.

Leakage with any ball powder is very hard to stop. The baffles that are available to us only stop leaks on the top. To stop leaks from the bottom, your powder bushing and your bar must be exactly the same length. The bar must lay and run perfectly flat against the measure assemble. It can not have one edge riding up on a radius from forming the measure assemble in a punch press. This was what was wrong with mine. The bar must be the same thickness across its entire 1" dimension. Not .003 thicker on the 2 outside edges as if it was gliding on two rails. Yep, I found one that way. (note paper is .004" thick)

Good Luck
Steve

So everyone knows, H110 & Win296 is the extract same powder just labeled differently for sale made at St Marks plant. 300MP is "said" to be 297 with or without (?) flash suppressant. And made at St marks too. Interesting I lose more of the flat 20/28 than the fine 300mp powder. Which is almost none. Yes 16.4grs crisps the 1/2 ounce loads while 17,0 grs does not on the 11/16 ounce loads.

The 1/2 ounce load at 1300fps works great and I love it with #8.5 shot for Sporting Clays. The small gauge events I have been to keep the shots at 30 to 35 yards max. Even for trap they step up to 14 yards not 16. I have found chokes of .007" & .009" work great. On normal SC courses .009" & .012" work fine. But I just focus on the 35 yard and under shots for the best score. I have hit 50 yard targets with #8 and .015" choke to impress some but that is not every day! 208 pellets just do not produce large dense patterns.

I might buy #8 lbs of 296 for the 1/2 ounce loads and than I will know if there is any difference in hull life. Both go to 1300 fps.

I have been loading .410 with H110 and up around 8-10 reloads I start ejecting just brass with no plastic to be found. Occassionally one dies before that or develops a split in the side but after 2800 shells fired (just started with .410 mid-last year) I figure I average 8 reloads of AA HS before they're gone.

I have been a long time user of H110/296 but have recently switched to 300MP. I find I get better hull life with 300MP. For the first time I have been able to load Federal hulls with no whislers during the first reload.

I threw all of my Federals (aprox 2000) in the trash. Never had an AAHS separate, but I’ve had it happen (rarely) with the AACF.

AAHS are a very good hull, perhaps the best currently available. Never had one split open down the side. In my experience after several reloads, the side walls just get thinner and thinner; almost translucent. Finally they get so thin that I can’t crimp the hull without it collapsing. I think that you will see this with any powder.