I have a Beretta 390 and the LOP is too long for me. I called my local gun shop and they said the only way to shorten the LOP was to get a thinner recoil pad. They said they couldn't cut down the stock due to how the recoil pad attaches to the stock by screwing into 2 anchor points. Once you shorten the stock you cut out the anchor points.

Well, why not just glue in some new anchor points???? One could always use that plastic weld stuff that they sell in just about every hardware store. Is this guy just being lazy?

Has anyone done this? I know there has to be a way. I am not going to drop $200 for a wooden stock.

yea, you can do it your self. but you dont want to go too short cause the stock will get smaller as you go. if you make a template on where to mount them you should be able to get them to align in the right points for the recoil pad to go back on. doing things like this is what makes me tick, I love taking stuff changing it, and making it better than it was before.

to get the old holes out find a thin blade saw, (we used these in jewelry class in high school) or a band saw would work good.

for the glue, id get some jb weld or some kind of epoxy. it will heat up, and basicly melt its self into the plastic, forming the two pieces together.

good luck, take some pics id like to see how you its done.

thanks,
-Tim

*edit*
just thought of a better way to get it done. take 2, 1/4" piece of plastic and shape both to fit in the inside of the stock. this way you can drill your own holes with out worring about if the pieces you cut off will line up or fit right. then glew them in the stock.

I was planning on using the bandsaw I have access to. Heck, I have access to a miter saw, hacksaw, chop saw, table saw etc. Many ways to cut this sucker down

As for the anchor points I was going to get a piece of plastic dowel of appropriate diameter and cut off two pieces that I would glue to the inside of the stock in the same manner you describe. This really does sound pretty simple. I was pretty surprised the guy said he couldn't do it. When I asked if the only reason was because of the mounting points, and he said yes, I couldn't believe it.

go for it,:wink:

when your done with that, you'll most likley have to attach the pad, wrap the stock in masking tape, and put it one the belt sander, so it will match the contours of the new, "custom" stock

-Tim

p.s. ill be sending you a bill for $200 + tax

jk good luck

did ya do it yet?

Did this work??? Inquiring minds want to know.

Well, here are the results. I finally got off my lazy butt and cut down the stock. It turns out that I didn't need to relocate mounting holes for the butt pad since I was only shortening the stock a little to accomodate a reduced LOP and a butt stock plate adjuster. It is all pretty self explanatory. Tools used were a ruler, marker, band saw and belt sander. It turned out pretty well and took all of 5 minutes. I'll be putting on a Kick-eeze pad and taking it out to the range to see how it fits. If it needs to be chopped back again, no problem. All in all I took off 1/4" to accomodate the thickness of the adjuster plate, + 1/8" for reduced LOP. Lets see how this turns out. Being charged $50 for this at a shop is like highway robbery. Everyone has to make a living though, I guess.


The penny is there to make sure that the buttstock stays flat as it travels through the blade







Here is another thing that we are currently making for a turbo VW:

If you had cut past the anchor points you can add a piece of wood shaped to the size and shape of the stock where ever you need to cut it,then just drill the mounting holes for the pad.You can epoxy it to the inside of the stock and you are in business.Thats how I did my synthetic stock. sj

Good idea. Luckily the anchor points go pretty deep.

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