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 Post subject: Oil Finish
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:22 pm
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Location: San Antonio texas
Im not sure if this was asked before or not,if so i havent found it. But on a stock like a spartan or any other same type of finish on the stock Do u use some kind of stripper to get the old finish off or can u use something like acetone to take it off
Thanks for any help u can give



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Remington 11-87 12g.
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 Post subject: Re: Oil Finish
PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2006 9:54 pm 
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I would use a stripper, then sand lightly, whisker, and refinish.
Jim

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Finish
PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 12:13 am 
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I have always used Formby's furniture refinisher. It is formulated to remove finish without removing the stain or "patina". Generally I don't like Formby's products but the refinisher is good stuff.

Afterwards I use a tung oil finish like Daly's Sea fin teak oil.

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Finish
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:55 pm 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
I agree with Quickshot. You can buy or make your own tung or boiled lindseed oil finish. I keep a small "eye-drop" bottle of finish in my gun cabinet and give the stocks a drop or two (that is all they need) periodically, after handling them. Works great and my wife even likes the aroma! :)


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 Post subject: Easy way and less easy way.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:28 pm 
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carpe dm wrote:
I agree with Quickshot. You can buy or make your own tung or boiled lindseed oil finish. I keep a small "eye-drop" bottle of finish in my gun cabinet and give the stocks a drop or two (that is all they need) periodically, after handling them. Works great and my wife even likes the aroma! :)


Something like Linspeed or Birchwood-Casey Stock finish will go on quickly, in a single coat, easily, directions included. Formsby's Tung Oil Finish for furniture also is really quick applying, finishes well, and gives good protection to the wood.

If you are one of these that wants to "work" on your firearm instead of just get it done, strip all the way down to bare wood, get something like tung oil (I used Formsby's Tung Oil Finish on a rifle) and sandpaper in 220, 400 and 600 grit.

Start with 220, wet the sandpaper with the oil, and swirl it on the stock with light pressure, sanding up a little slurry of wood dust and oil. It will start to get tacky, and that's your cue to move on to the next spot (about a silver-dollar-sized piece at a time) until the whole stock (minus the checkering!) is covered with a thin film of this paste (and your hands and face and clothing too?).

Let dry -- here it takes about a day, other places may take a whole week. Then repeat with the 400 grit, and let dry again. When you start the swirling make sure you cut through the muck down to the wood and then let it get tacky and move along.

Then do it with the 600 grit, but you need a bunch of paper towels/napkins/rags this time. Take a square of sandpaper, wet it in the oil, and start swirling, get all the muck loosened up, and wipe it off with the paper towel. Do this over the whole stock. When you're done, it'll look REALLY good. If you want it shinier, apply the oil with a rag and buff it dry. One coat will only make it a bit shinier, so you don't have to worry about it being too shiny. Brush the oil into the checkering and blot out the excess with a rag at this point.

All this sanding-mucking up-drying is filling every last pore with dust and oil, and driving the oil in deep inside the wood. It will bring out the grain like you won't believe. Of course, take all the metal off, recoil pad/buttplate etc. And remember to refinish all the areas that will be covered -- if you strip it, it can let moisture in or out (I'm in the desert, so that can also be a problem). The covered spots can just have a coat or two rubbed on with a rag, not so thick that you change the fit.

This is way overkill if all you do is acetone strip a factory stock, but if you take it down to bare wood and sand out a blemish here and there, then this might appeal to you. And yes, this is from Jack Mitchell's "Riflesmithing" book.

And for the record, teak oil and tung oil are different -- but they are both wood-derived oils that soak into wood and protect it from water very well. Many people say to use teak oil only on teak wood, but hey, if it works, good for you.


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 Post subject: Re: Easy way and less easy way.
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:45 pm 
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JMody wrote:
And for the record, teak oil and tung oil are different -- but they are both wood-derived oils that soak into wood and protect it from water very well. Many people say to use teak oil only on teak wood, but hey, if it works, good for you.


Did not say it was teak oil. It is called Sea Fin Teak Oil Finish. It was originally made for teak wood on boats. It is a tung oil product.

Here is the website

http://www.dalyspaint.com/



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