Here is why I use Loktite on scope screws; Brownells recommended it. Listen to first 10 seconds.

If you prefer not to use it; that's o.k. with me. I knew I had seen this somewhere long ago and it is also the reason I use the blue locktite.

https://www.brownells.com/guntech/quick ... ?lid=17367

If you spend $2000 plus on a scope and $100 plus on rings then you use a torque wrench. Most precision or long range shooters are always looking for an edge so when the next latest greatest scope comes out they sell one to buy the other and when you sell one the buyers want to know that you properly torqued the rings so the tube wasn’t damaged. Also many of the problems associated with repeatability on scope travel are traced back to improperly mounted scopes. If you’re mounting a tasco in weaver rings then hand tighten and go. If you’re mounting a Nightforce Atacr in $150 rings then torque them.

I never used loctite on competition rifles scope rings however I checked torque on ring and base screws before traveling to a match.

Good video, thanks for posting it.

I always degreased the scope mount screws and any ring screws before applying blue Loctite and never had any problem with them loosening.

This is what I got from a scope manufacturer a couple years ago. His explanation of torque is a little off, though I get what hes trying to say. Fundamentally loctite should reduce the friction coefficient of the threads so there is less loss of torque due to friction resulting in higher tension in the screw, i.e. higher clamping force. I've always used blue loctite, and still do.

My question was about lapping anodized aluminum rings, but he addressed torque as well.


"The need for lapping varies from mount to mount and rifle to rifle - always worth checking. We do still require lapping on some rings even to this day - many times we've had to lap DNZ mounts. Not always, but on more than a couple occasions. Also, this will sound obvious coming from the scope company, but listen to the scope company when it comes to ring torque - A ring manufacturer makes rings, not scopes, so it's only reasonable to assume that they're not as intimately familiar with the scope and its mechanical design. 18 inch pounds is more than enough, especially with proper rings that have good contact patch around the scope's tube to hold everything firmly and in proper alignment.

As for loc-tite, people flame us for this all the time, but don't use it on the ring screws. Using loc-tite lubricates the threads and a lubricated thread will cause the torque wrench to cam over at a higher torque than it would if it were a dry thread. Basically, the screw is going in further and compressing the rings around the scope tube at a greater force when it's lubricated, even though you have it set at the proper 15-18 inch pounds. We leave our threads totally bare and dry all the time and have never - ever ever ever had an issue. If it really worries you then from time to time just give it a quick check with your torque wrench in the future on occasion. If you absolutely must use loc-tite and refuse to leave the threads dry (You're not alone if that's the case) then set your wrench to 15 inch pounds and it will likely wind up camming over right around that 18 inch pound max anyway."

Bingo.

Warne says "No, We have never found it necessary to apply any thread locker to our rings during assembly, and recommend against it because of possible damage to your scope from over tightening the screws, and ease of dis-assembly and if you ever need to remove your scope from the gun."

For bases, Warne does suggest Loctite 242.

I had an accuracy problem trying to shoot in a T/C bolt action (whichever model, the higher of the 2 grades.) and eliminated all but the scope. It was a middle-range Vortex. I sent it back and the customer service person I talked to (nice to actually TALK to a human) said he thought I torqued-down the rings too much. He recommended 18 inch pounds. So I got a a FAT wrench from Waller and re-mounted it. It worked.

I learned that the reticle sits in a sleeve (If I get the wrong, please forgive me) that is mounted on springs. When I torqued the rings too tightly, it 'ovaled' the scope tube. THis then caught on the spring mounted sleeve as is oscillated from recoil.

Something like that. Bases and recoil lugs, make 'em tight. Ring screws, look up the manufacturer's recommendations and get a torque driver.

Pheasants are over. No ice fishing. Can't snowboard b/c of 2 hip replacements. And talking about scopes gets me fired up for woodchucks.
TMI, yes, but s