I am hoping that someone could point me towards someone that could repair the stock on my Citori. Has a pretty good gouge in the bottom of the stock. I figure it will have to be repaired and the stock and fore end refinished to match.

Take some dark stain, file and sand, then color that, then touch it up with Tru oil.

It would cost almost as much to strip and redo the stock and fore end on that Citori as it’s worth.

Correct me if I am wrong, but that looks like a grade I stock. Am I correct? If so, you wont have much to loose by trying to fix it yourself. A mix of wood shavings, epoxy, and a color matching stain can be used as a filler. Somebody on the youtubes will have done a similar repair. Just so that you know, that video will be age restricted.

I would sand down the damaged area to the bare wood and mix up your filler and then fill it in. let it cure and harden. then sand down to the correct contour and stain to match and varnish. I did much pretty much the same to a damaged stock myself and while it wasn’t a professional fix, for a low grade wood stock that I fixed for free, it was a perfect repair. I would not repair a Grade VII stock but a grade I stock, you don’t have much to lose. I had never done it before but for a first time try, it came out ok. I have a grade I citrori skeet stock that looks much the same so if you completely screw yours up, I am open to selling at a very reasonable price.

So simple and so true.

First, DO NOT USE STAIN ! ! !

This isn't some cheap 1950's poplar stained to look like Walnut, it is real in the flesh Walnut. Browning does not stain their stocks, depending on vintage they are either lacquered or oiled over bare wood. Note current models feature an oil with hardening additive finishes and there was that horrible finish I refuse to remember the name of that was a total disaster that was used post 2000 for a year or two. However Browning only applied the finish to bare unstained wood so don't even consider using stain for a repair.

Looking at your damage I suspect that you have a lacquer finish and that would be good news. Because all you have to do is do some sanding and filing to blend in that damaged area and then start applying Birchwood Casey True Oil layer by layer. BTW, True-Oil is rather unique in it's application requirements. For that is area (the entire cap) you would place a single drop of True Oil and then spread it over the entire surface. Wait about 4 hours and apply another drop. Plan on building it to a point of somewhere between 30 and 50 layers and you'll have a repair that will only be noticeable by it's perfection. Warning, try to apply it like paint and you'll find it wont ever dry and you'll likely get runs going into the checkering and a huge mess. Point is you cannot rush it with True Oil, take the time to do it properly and you get perfection. Try and rush it and you'll have to totally strip the stock and do it all.