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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 10:37 am 
Field Grade

Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2019 2:15 pm
Posts: 82
Location: Texas
casonet wrote:
Or you can just do your own finish. I would suggest Watco oil. It contains driers

{hs# That is what I use! 1cas




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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 12:39 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:13 pm
Posts: 29
I’ve been working with Timberluxe and I’m very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it’s almost dry. I’m liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 1:39 pm 
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I add a little paint thinner to Tru Oil and find that it’s much easier to work with

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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 2:35 pm 
Diamond Grade

Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2019 1:36 pm
Posts: 1080
Location: Endless Mountains of PA
Gentlemen,

IMO this all has to due with the gun the finish is on, having different Classic American double guns the manufacturers finish is some times the only finish that really makes the gun. LeFever and L.C. Smith both come to mind, having their own classic wood finishes, the guns would look unfinished with a different work done on them.

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man

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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:05 pm
Posts: 409
1casual wrote:
casonet wrote:
Or you can just do your own finish. I would suggest Watco oil. It contains driers

{hs# That is what I use! 1cas


+2 It's actually mentioned by name in the Browning manual for stock touch up


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 9:02 am 
Crown Grade

Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:31 pm
Posts: 2458
My beard cuts through most oil finishes. CG oil finish is good maybe for 3 years. Applying new maintenance coats doesn't appeal. True-oil and BLO finishes are easier to repair is due to the fact they are softer. Being softer they get dirtier faster and are easier to damage.

A good poly finish will last for years with minimum maintenance. I suggest that a poly finish is most appropriate for field or target guns. They're harder and resists damage and dirt.

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 Post subject: stock finish
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 9:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 20, 2009 1:54 pm
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Location: Kansas
I don’t know what was in the DuPont RKW finish that Remington used on their guns for years and years, but it was tough as nails and I thought that it was quite attractive. Shiny was the style back in those days along with the white line spacers. I still like ‘em

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"We pulled the trigger, the safety went forward, both barrels fired almost together, the gun opened, ejectors kicked the fired cases over our shoulder ...the most completely automatic gun we ever fired" Elmer Keith- Shotguns by Keith


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 10:36 am 
Crown Grade

Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2016 11:45 am
Posts: 2172
casonet wrote:
I don’t know what was in the DuPont RKW finish that Remington used on their guns for years and years, but it was tough as nails and I thought that it was quite attractive. Shiny was the style back in those days along with the white line spacers. I still like ‘em



So do I, I even put white line spacers on ones that aren’t supposed to. Grip caps also.


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:05 pm
Posts: 409
seb7515 wrote:
My beard cuts through most oil finishes.


I don't know what you guys are doing to wear thru oil finishes like this. I have several oil finished shotguns I have used for decades. Many of the guys I hunt with also have oil finished guns they've used for decades as well and we don't experience this type of wear with oil finishes.


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 11:15 am 
Field Grade

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:29 am
Posts: 72
Sam Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO


Last edited by blindretrieve on Fri Feb 26, 2021 9:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 11:32 am 
Diamond Grade
User avatar

Joined: Mon May 27, 2013 7:19 pm
Posts: 1988
Location: Indian Head Country Wisconsin
Eibar wrote:
I’ve been working with Timberluxe and I’m very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it’s almost dry. I’m liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.



Nice! I’m a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it’s likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 12:30 pm 
Presentation Grade
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:12 pm
Posts: 615
Location: Oregon
Patently Obvious wrote:
Eibar wrote:
I’ve been working with Timberluxe and I’m very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it’s almost dry. I’m liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.



Nice! I’m a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it’s likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.


Get yourself a can of Bloxigen. It is an inert gas that you squirt into a partially used can of finish and the gas prevents oxygen from geting to and curing the remaining amount.
I have used it for years with quite a few different finishes and it will not effect the product you are using.

CT


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 5:48 pm 
Presentation Grade
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 1:46 pm
Posts: 501
Location: MN.
Pullandmark wrote:
I just refinished two Citoris to a satin finish using Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Here is a link to my post.
https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewto ... 2&t=528510

I've used a lot of finishes over the years. 5 years ago did my first gun an Ithaca 37 16 ga. with Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Still looks as good as when I finished it despite being carried for miles in the rain and snow. And busting brush. You made a good choice IME.

Image

Image

Image


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 7:24 pm 
Presentation Grade
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:12 pm
Posts: 615
Location: Oregon
Cold Iron,

NICE DOG.

CT


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 9:14 am 
Limited Edition

Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2011 8:05 pm
Posts: 409
blindretrieve wrote:
Sm Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO


That's what Watco Danish Oil is (from their website):

"WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish hardens in the wood, not on the wood. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. "


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 5:22 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:13 pm
Posts: 29
Patently Obvious wrote:
Eibar wrote:
I’ve been working with Timberluxe and I’m very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it’s almost dry. I’m liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.



Nice! I’m a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it’s likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.


I’ve been using a .5oz bottle for some two weeks now without any jelling of the product. However, lately I’ve been using the gas recommended for extending the life of the oil. In any case, I’m liking TimberLuxe a lot, and having Brian ready to answer any and all questions is a big plus.

My son-in-law is doing at the same time another stock with a Purdey-type formula he’s made which includes carnuba and beeswax, plus BLO and some expensive turpentine, etc. His is starting to look great. But I’m on my fifth coat of TimberLuxe today and I wouldn’t change if Mr. Purdey himself would offer to do mine. :-)


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 5:26 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:13 pm
Posts: 29
searun wrote:
Patently Obvious wrote:
Eibar wrote:
I’ve been working with Timberluxe and I’m very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it’s almost dry. I’m liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.



Nice! I’m a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it’s likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.


Get yourself a can of Bloxigen. It is an inert gas that you squirt into a partially used can of finish and the gas prevents oxygen from geting to and curing the remaining amount.
I have used it for years with quite a few different finishes and it will not effect the product you are using.

CT


Correct. I’m using the same thing with good results.


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:03 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:29 am
Posts: 72
MNGunner wrote:
blindretrieve wrote:
Sm Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO


That's what Watco Danish Oil is (from their website):

"WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish hardens in the wood, not on the wood. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. "



https://www.sammaloofwoodworker.com/furniture

Sam Maloof , has been building fine furniture for a Long long time.. (1950,or so) His finish was always kept a secret.. He finally divulged it.. During the time it was a secret, many companies tried to mimic it..
Rockler now sell the finish in a can with Maloofs name on it..

It is WAY more durable than Watco.. No comparison..

https://www.sammaloofwoodworker.com/sam-maloof-legacy

https://www.rockler.com/sam-maloof-s-fi ... paign=(ROI)_Shopping_-_Finishing&msclkid=8e4819d91abe1e6738a779e0a28f65a0


Last edited by blindretrieve on Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 20, 2009 1:54 pm
Posts: 12157
Location: Kansas
Anyone ever heard of “Arrow” oil finish? My buddy swears by it, so I bought some. It’s a true oil finish but it dries very quickly. I was quite happy with the results

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"We pulled the trigger, the safety went forward, both barrels fired almost together, the gun opened, ejectors kicked the fired cases over our shoulder ...the most completely automatic gun we ever fired" Elmer Keith- Shotguns by Keith


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 Post subject: Re: stock finish
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:26 pm 
Field Grade

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2016 10:29 am
Posts: 72
i have Maloofs finish on several shooter gunstocks. i use minwax fast dry poly as the varnish in mix.
Its Very durable after you get a decent build.. The first few coats penetrate and go INTO the wood, then progressive coats adds build and desired sheen..

I am not overly careful with common gun cleaning solvents.. never had a problem with solvents attacking the finish.. guns have been hunted in heavy rain, and blowing snow..

I LOVE the finish.. Its easy and bullet proof.. You CANT screw it up..

Image

The two gunstocks right to left have the finish. Remington 514 .22,,and then Winchester model 1890. .22 long rifle

Image

Image

Image

Image

.22 rifle stock, finish applied very sparingly over factory Winchester finish, that was very thin and worn in spots.. I did a light buff first with 0000 steel wool, wiped down well with spirits,, then wiped on a single coat of Maloofs finish.. It blended well with factory,,and I saved the covetted red Wincheser color.. (Winchester 67 ,,shooter gun). I left dings and dents in wood deliberatly, because of sentimental attachment as to who made them..... my dad.. :) You can adjust sheen to your liking. ( finish looks shinier than it is in pic.. Finish looks factory,, Finish is on cabinet doors in background .


I do own expensive spray equiptment, and spray Cat lacquer when I must,,but it now costs a small fortune to cleans guns ,, silly for a small project...

This finish only requires a few Original Scotts Blue paper shop towels to wipe on and buff off finish.. I keep a small amount of mixed Maloofs finish in a sealable lid mason jar, on a shelf in shop




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