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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 4:43 pm 
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The Fiocchi hulls are straightwall euro hulls and take the larger euro primers.

On the Remington hulls you need to cut one open, cross section, or look inside with a strong light, and see if they are molded in one peace or if they have a separate yellow, black or grey basewad.

The one-piece molded hulls are taper wall Remington Unibody, also known as STS (emerald green), Nitro (gold), Gun Club or Sport Load. They are not straightwall hulls but can be used with the Lee slugs with appropriate data.

The Remington hulls with separate base wads are straight wall, knownas Remington SP Plastic or Type 6. These hulls have their own data and take standard American size 209 primers. Many of these hulls may be marked Nitro Mag or Nitro Steel but they are not the same as the gold Nitro Unibody hull.

I'm glad to see you found theLee slug to be an easier solution to your slug questions.




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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 11:35 pm 
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Thanx for tge info.
And who said I quit on the homemade slug idea?

From what I can understand reloading slugs is yielding poor to fair results.
Don't you think that maybe there could be room for improvement?
Granted I might not be learned in reloading. And the rifling of the slugs might be a bad/useless idea.
But there has to be room for some improvements. And at least I will learn and have fun trying it.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:30 am 
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PepeLapiu wrote:
Thanx for tge info.
And who said I quit on the homemade slug idea?

From what I can understand reloading slugs is yielding poor to fair results.
Don't you think that maybe there could be room for improvement?

Granted I might not be learned in reloading. And the rifling of the slugs might be a bad/useless idea.
But there has to be room for some improvements. And at least I will learn and have fun trying it.
I think you got that idea from one guy who couldn't make his loads work. I've seen his approach and its no surprise he got bad results.

The whole point of reloading is that there is always room for improvement.


Last edited by Cerberus on Fri Jun 05, 2015 6:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:42 am 
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Lets have a big "AMEN" for that.......... Spot on Cerberus, Spot on. Larry


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 1:45 pm 
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Cerberus, I didn't re-read the whole thread so maybe this is in there. However, the first post in the thread shows cheddite hulls taking an American .242" primer; it doesn't actually work, the cheddite (at least Herters) pockets are loose. Maybe an edit to cheddite so folks don't buy the wrong primers and have to resize them all?

Basically I was able to just press the Ch209 primers into the hulls with almost no resistance. The Win209 primers I could press in with my thumb with just a bit of resistance/pressure at the end like snapping the lid on a sharpie pen. Both too loose.

I just deprimed a bunch of Herters/cheddite hulls and measured holes, they're a loose fit for their own brand of primers! I measured 5 primers each of Win209 and Ch209, turns out the Ch209 are actually a wee bit SMALLER than my Win209. If you've got cheddite hulls with loose primer pockets, you're NOT going to solve the problem with Ch209 chetddite primers!:
Win209-- .242
Ch209-- 0.240
cheddite hulls: 0.241-.242


I resized all the primer holes when I've used 12ga cheddite hulls using the trick Cerberus told me, I just use a 6" extension for a 3/8" socket wrench, put it down in the hull and smack it hard once. Viola', tight primer pocket with win or ch209.

It's a pain to resize the cheddites, but the problem is there are almost NO recipes of a Cheddite hull using a Fio616 or Rio primer. In fact, if I sort for that in my spreadsheet with all RSI, Status of Steel, Hypersteel, all advantages loads of interest to me, Alliant, Hodgdon, and Lyman loads in it, I get a single load using "MultiHull" with Fio616 from the LBC43 load sheet, and at that time I think MH was a Fiocchi anyways. Everyone publishes cheddite hull/ch209 and Fiocchi hull/Fio616. So I'm resizing the cheddite hulls to use the Win209 or Ch209 or Fed209A in their recipes. One other option would be to use Win209 recipes and replace it with NS209 primer, which NS says on their data sheets is a direct replacment for Win209 I believe, and it's a fatter primer.

Just an update, as I was sending folks to this thread for primer sizing on cheddites, and getting told it's wrong because ch209 primers just slip into cheddite hulls with a thumb; the cheddite hull is like .002 larger primer pocket and US stuff.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:20 am 
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Dave, are we talking Herters 12ga? I went and deprimed some Herters 12ga., Red and Green 6pt hulls. I could push Cheddite primers in half way with my thumb on some and 90% of the way on others, and would probably get that click you talked about the other 10% of the way. I have loaded hundreds of these using Cheddite primers for my OU and the Wife's 930 and have not had any problems with primers backing or falling out. The Herters make a real nice load.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 4:35 pm 
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AntelopeTG, yes those are the ones.
I'm using them to load 11000psi-ish 1-1/8oz 1500fps steel duck loads. Need to have a primer that is tighter in there than thumb pressure.

After one hammer peen to resize them, I didn't have any ch209 primer backouts in 25 shots, so that works fine... just strange ch209 don't fit "tight" in a cheddite hull.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:33 am 
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Speaking of Cheddite hulls, lately I've been seeing red Spartan hulls showing up at the local sporting clays courses. Only references I've found online seem to be for Spartan buck shot rounds and not target loads. So I picked a few up late week while out shooting and they appeared to be Cheddite hulls with 8 petal crimps. I took a few home and loaded them as if they were Herter's hulls, but used the 8 pre-crimp and got a perfect crimp.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:29 pm 
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If anyone is near AntelopeTG and has a bucket load of almost any weird hull you can think of you might give them to him..... he had foot surgery a short while ago and cannot do much other than set on his bu............... chair. He would probably appreciate something to while away the time with something that does not require the use of his feet.....
He has already come up with a ball bearing to use on the charge bar lever of the 9000 Mec. Works like a dream and kept him busy for a day or two.......... Larry


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:50 pm 
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llc wrote:
If anyone is near AntelopeTG and has a bucket load of almost any weird hull you can think of you might give them to him..... he had foot surgery a short while ago and cannot do much other than set on his bu............... chair. He would probably appreciate something to while away the time with something that does not require the use of his feet.....
He has already come up with a ball bearing to use on the charge bar lever of the 9000 Mec. Works like a dream and kept him busy for a day or two.......... Larry



HAHA, Thanks Larry. Hopefully this Friday I will get the go ahead to get back on the foot. Just loaded up some more Rio/PT1215 loads for the Wife. I'll keep "puttering around" on the 9000.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 3:37 pm 
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Where is the design for that bar actuator mod? Sounds like fun to make, probably looks cool too.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2015 7:27 pm 
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Here you go AntelopeTG.......... your chance for fame and fortune.... or perhaps just fame..... or perhaps just recognition................... Larry


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:15 pm 
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Hey guys. I need some help here.
I have 2-3,000 hulls and I am not sure how to reload them. It will be mostly for the Lee 7/8oz slug. The hulls I have are from Fiocchi 1oz slugs once fired. They appear to be straight walled and they are high brass.

I can't find any load data for them. Or maybe I can just use any load data that is for Rio or Fiocchi hulls?

I'll see if I can post a pic if you think it would help.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:20 pm 
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Bah, never mind. It appears I asked that question a while ago and it was already answered.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 2:45 pm 
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AntelopeTG wrote:
Dave, are we talking Herters 12ga? I went and deprimed some Herters 12ga., Red and Green 6pt hulls. I could push Cheddite primers in half way with my thumb on some and 90% of the way on others, and would probably get that click you talked about the other 10% of the way. I have loaded hundreds of these using Cheddite primers for my OU and the Wife's 930 and have not had any problems with primers backing or falling out. The Herters make a real nice load.


Ditto, same for me too. Herter's hulls and Cheddite primers with no problems in my O/U.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 2:50 pm 
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I picked up hull for a new brand (for me) while bin diving today. 12 ga "Clever Mirage Classica 28 gr/1250 f/sec" markings and out of Italy. SW'ed and looks like a Cheddite primer, but the base wad doesn't look Cheddite.

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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 4:18 pm 
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By poking around, keeping one's eyes open and listening to others it is revealed that there is a whole world of options and things to try....... I have sympathy for those that do not have the temperament nor desire to explore and try and test and discover options. The world of shooting and reloading is a wondrous place if one keeps one's eyes open.......... Larry


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:30 pm 
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leftieD wrote:
I picked up hull for a new brand (for me) while bin diving today. 12 ga "Clever Mirage Classica 28 gr/1250 f/sec" markings and out of Italy. SW'ed and looks like a Cheddite primer, but the base wad doesn't look Cheddite.
They are made by NobelSport. I really like these Nobels, just a little extra capacity for tight loads.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:03 pm 
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leftieD wrote:
I picked up hull for a new brand (for me) while bin diving today. 12 ga "Clever Mirage Classica 28 gr/1250 f/sec" markings and out of Italy. SW'ed and looks like a Cheddite primer, but the base wad doesn't look Cheddite.


Lefty,
Went to the skeet range today, where a few weeks ago I cleverly bought and left a bin painted "Hulls Only!" and "Don't Toss!" etc... It was chock full o' goodness. I emptied it into a bag, brought it home and sorted it all up.

Got 1 box of Clever Mirage T1 20ga hulls myself. The basewad looks just like Fiocchi in 20ga, it's that dark grey/black plastic. Looked identical.

Cerberus has Clever Mirage listed under "Noble Sport" on the first post, but at least in 20ga it is definitely NOT NS-- I have about a case of those too that I picked up, the NS basewad is white plastic and looks most similar to cheddite. The Clever Mirage 20ga is definitely Fiocchi--while I haven't cut it open, I did look down there in bright sunlight today and compare them, they're the same color/conformation/height on primer/hull material/brass base. I'd use Fiocchi recipes for CM in 20ga.

BTW, I also got at least a case of 12ga blue Rios, a case of clear 12ga Fiocchi, a case of 20ga Win AA, case of Herters 12ga maroon. Plus a bunch of 20ga and 12ga "Universal" win and 12ga Estate.
Suuuuch a sickness, but I'm happy it's this instead of some other perversion heh.


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 Post subject: Re: Guide to Straight Wall Hulls
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 9:04 pm 
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Edited the Guide at top to add the new Federal Import hull. This is a Rio/MAXAM hull, dark maroon with gold color steel head marked "12 GA" & "FEDERAL" with 8-point crimp. Primer size is E, factory primer copper cup with silver primer. Fired primers measure .245" at cup.

I picked up a bunch of these last night along with a few boxes. The factory boxes are bright red with black label, marked FIELD & TARGET Multi-Purpose Load. Inspection of the basewad and fired primers showed it identical to the Rio & Suprema hulls I picked up at the same time. Primers are also identical.




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