To show my ignorance of climate in that part of the world ; how cold does it get in CA? (Assuming that's where the shoot was).

I can say from experiance that Citori triggers are not effected by 10 degrees F, even if the shooter is

Claydust,

It doesn't get very cold in the area of California I shoot in. It hardly ever gets below freezing. I think it was in the neighborhood of 45 to 50 degrees F when I had my "problem".

By the way, I didn't say my assumption about the cold was a good one! I was grasping at any possible explanation at the time.

Scott

Been there, done that myself

One time in London, Ontario I was shooting a practice round of skeet an it was in the "teens" F with a wind chill.

I was stupid and was shooting without gloves.

I was using my Ithaca 37 Supreme. It was made one year before they started puting interupters on them and they will slam fire, though I never do this.

I had run them up to station 6 doubles, by that time I was losing interst along with body heat. I got my singles, then smoked my 1st shot on the doubles then there was an immediate second, unintentional shot (I am able to crank one of these things pretty fast).

My finger was so cold, I thought I had backed off on the trigger but had no feeling at all left in my finger and did not. That was the first and only time that ever happened to me. I lost interest and dropped two of the last targets, being more intersted in retreating to warm shelter as rapidly as possible.

Yes, cold can really effect us when we shoot.

Twofer, I am glad you have such a good working relationship with your guns. I talk to mine and they talk back but they usually say things like "nice shot, you dimwit." My dog has the same sentiments. I still think your best bet is to worm your way into Browning's repair center and talk to a technician. If they refer you to a local gunsmith who is on a commission to them, then he will just want it sent to him so he can make a few bucks on it. If you get ahold of one of their payroll repair folks you might likely find out who will detail the possiblities that can result in the problem.

And Ulysees is correct in that the trunk test will lead you to trapping the trigger, but only in the case that those are the only two things that may be causing the problem. If there are 29 other items that may be doing it then you are just on a long trail to nowhere AND you will have to apologize to your gun for leaving it out in the trunk.

Good luck to your and keep up the dialog with the shotgun.

BTW, as far as a lube, Brownells has two good cold weather lubricants, Action Lube Plus and Action Magic II. In my work I am generally involved with rifles and I lke to leave the bolt and parts clean of any kind of lubricant. When I do use one it is a dry type, like powdered graphite.

The changes required on the Beretta 680 series is to replace the 12/20 gauge inertia block and inertia lever springs for those for the 28/410 gauge shotgun. With the lighter springs the action becomes sensitive enough that the triggers will reset due to the vibration of the falling hammer. Note, in good well trained hands it will only take about 20 minutes to do the change over but the trigger plate screw is locktighted in and a real bugger to get loose. The top trigger plate screw is locktighted in about 50% of the time so you can get lucky there. Because of this I would advise paying a professional to do the work. Finally at some point someone who gets serious about Skeet will get tubes and need their action converted. So this modification does have a long history with very little heard about it causing problems in Safety or Match shooting.

BTW, have 2 of the 686 (12 & 20) plus my Browning Citori and would like the option of using my tubes for the 12 gauge 686 in my Browning. Note, they fit just fine in either barrel set. Now all I need to do is convert the Browning Inertia system to be compatible with 410. What I have found so far is Browning offers two different inertia blocks, have not found anything yet on springs in the inertia system.

We may have a new "Lazarus" record. Seventeen years!

Oldest I’ve seen.

Still a good read tho. I learned something.

tp

"Because of this I would advise paying a professional to do the work."

This is what you should learn from that.

I shoot a Browning 12ga 725 that was said to have mechanical triggers . That argument has gone on for a long time as they are not truly mechanical.I sent it to Briley to have tubes made and payed $200 for trigger work.It now will shoot .410 with no trouble.I have asked the question as to what Briley actually did to the triggers. It gets complicated.

This is why you eventually upgrade to real mechanical triggers.
I went browning to kemen to merkel 203 to krieghoff/blaser

Mechanical only for me till the end of times