Courtesy Of Mr. Conman 37..
https://www.shotgunworld.com/images/BROW ... SEMBLY.pdf

Finally dared to open up my A5 - it hasn't been cleaned since 1972!
These instructions helped a lot.

ps. Remarkably, it wasn't so dirty. Guess I'll wait another 40 years to clean it

This was a BIG help.. I never realized the receiver would be so sharp where the trigger assembly is. I was cleaning inside and cut the snot out of myself. So be careful

I was given a 1956 A5 that my Uncle owned and it hasn't been shot since 1972 and after looking at
those directions....it is going to the Gunsmith. I can tear apart a John Deere, but this is a bit too
much for me.

It's really not as bad as these instructions make it appear to be. For a good internal cleaning, you only need to remove the trigger group, carrier and bolt assemblies. The other parts in the assemblies can be cleaned with an old toothbrush and some solvent. My carrier is the old one pc. design, which makes it alittle easier too. There's a very good video on Art's website showing the steps involved. The video shows you real time how easy it is.

I'll have to check out that video. I had the A5 restored and took it out once to shoot two rounds
of trap. Performed really well. I bought the new spring kit for it and the cycled perfectly. The
gun sure has a little kick to it. I think I'll clean it and oil it up good and keep it as a safe Queen
from now on though.

The videos are more for his refinishing process, but you get a good tutorial in taking down an A5. Mine is a 1953 model with the one pc carrier. I bought a new spring kit and ring set for mine and it cycles like a brand new gun. When you see him prying out the action spring plug, he could have been filming me. Mine was the original wood plug and more than alittle soft after 58 years. You shouldn't have any problems.

ok guys this is a question for the world of browning guys i have a 1941 browning 16ga youth a5 on the link at the top of this fourm it goes into detail on page 13 to remove the bolt carrier group in the first pic to remove the pin using a punch through the ejection port......well mine is missing the cut at the edge of the port???? plz help!

1941? It might be Remington manufactured. I don't know much about the differences, but there were a few. I defer to the experts.

Could you post a picture or two of the left and right side so we can see the issue?

I wouldn't even take the trigger group out to clean it. There's no need to risk marring those beautiful screws or the side of the receiver with a screwdriver. If it is really filthy, remove the butt because the spring will surely be filthy as well. But with the barrel and butt off, you can soak the receiver in your favourite solvent for a day. Use a pressure washer if you want to blast out everything inside, or brake cleaner. Drop it in clean solvent again to remove any water, and blast it out with air. Lube it up, air blast out any excess lubricant and put it back together.

Gunsmith screwdrivers are not that expencive. They uasually ask more for the word Gunsmith. but anyhow. I have completely disasembled my A5 with just a diagram. Trick, The bolt comes out the front of the action after you take the op. lever out. The large screw in the rear of the action that has to be remover to allow the bolt back far enough to remove the op. lever.bolt falls out. I had to replace the fireing pin.. Under ten bucks from Browning (at the time I did it) and yes ,Brake clean is one of the better solvents, works like carbin tect. Best to have a mag cup for all the screws. Engraved lock screws are pritty arnent they. Pain in the a$$. My A5 is a grade 3, 16 gauge made in 1933 W/ barrels

Question:
Step 34
What years are "earlier guns" and what is the "special tool" referred to?
I have a 1933 model.

I think the change from screws to roll pins took place in the early '60s, and the special tool I use is a jewler's screwdriver.

Thank you for the reply.

Beautiful instructions and illustrations. Much thanks.

Does your gun have the speed loading feature? I read in the Browning book that that feature wasn't install until 1934. So I am curious if that is true.

I shoot Remy II's and Browning Auto 5's. If indeed there was no speed loading feature on pre-1934 Auto 5's then the only diff between the two manufactures would be the Shell Stop, which no one uses anyway.

Speed Load, late 1953. The Shell Stop gets used every time. Magazine Cutoff use is optional.

That is interesting. I thought that the shell stop and the magazine cuttoff were one of the same and it is so stated in my Browning book. So, what is the difference? I have never switched that magazine cuttoff switch rearward, except to just flip it back and forth, and frankly I don't know what happens if I did and then loaded the gun.

While I love my Auto 5's, I am about equally crazy about my Rem Model 11's, but I do appreciate the speed loader when shooting skeet/trap.

It's easy, even for those experienced working on them, to get the terms mixed up. The Shell Stop is that part visible on the left side of the receiver. It is held flush with the inside of the receiver by the barrel when in battery. As the barrel recoils it moves into the path of the next shell--stopping it--untill the barrel moves back into battery.

The Cutoff is useful when hunting and you need to unload to cross a fence. Instead of removing the shells in magazine you can flip the switch and simply remove the one in the chamber. Browning mentions being loaded for ducks and being able to quickly switch to a goose load.