http://www.browning.com/customerservice ... asp?id=105


Here is some other good Auto 5 info.

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=179885

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=188286

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=216472

Cleaning link.

http://refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=69850

Worc,

Thanks for that link. I printed it and plan to post copies in our clubhouse for the occasional A5 shooter we get.

Anyone know where I can find this posted anymore? The link is dead.

http://www.browning.com/customerservice/qna/detail.asp?id=105

Seems it got lost when Browning changed the website

I had a gunsmith give a simple for friction rings: high brass double, low brass double down.

I have a "new to me" Browning magnum A5. Made in 1996, Invector Plus and therefore safe with steel. I've gotten the manual electronically with the correct friction ring settings for magnum vs high velocity (and all steel shot) loads.
I will be using 3" 1 1/4 oz Remington Wingmaster HD and 1 3/8 oz Hevi-shot (both are nominally 1450 fps) when the resident goose season opens in a couple weeks. Any advice on whether to go with the magnum setting or the high velocity? The local skeet range would not be appreciative of firing 3" shells to find out.
Thanks for any input.

A good rule of thumb is:

Try it on the heavy setting first, if it cycles, leave it.

Most 3" steel loads will use the light setting, I have yet to fin a steel load that will cycle my mag 12 on the heavy setting.

I did pattern the 1 1/2oz HD in #4's and the 1 3/8oz in #6's and they both cycled in the heavy setting.

Thanks for the info. I'll start with the heavy setting and 1 3/8 oz and work on it from there. Also thanks about the steel loads - got some of them lying around also.

The Hevi shot load should cycle fine in the heavy setting - the lighter load is a crap shoot on heavy setting - mine will not cycle similar loads. Make sure the tube and spring are clean - clean of grease and sludge. I apply a "fine" application of Break Free to the tube.

Here's a tip I recieved from Browning customer service....use a few drops 5w30 engine oil on the magazine tube to lube the friction rings. I have a 1940 A5, works great, guy at Browning said the engine oil is a little more viscous and stays put, I bought a little plastic bottle at a drug store and keep it with my gun cleaning supplies....

I pick up once fired Federal Promo hulls at my club, load 18.2 grns of Red Dot and my A5 will shoot this one ounce load all day...brass friction ring on top, the other one below the spring, bevel down.

Grandpa gave my son his A-5 Magnum. I nice gun and great legacy piece but it doesn't seem to like target loads for skeet/clays. Is this model designed to shoot only heavy loads? If so, can the gun be modified in some way to shoot the light rounds.

Best.

Here's an image you all may enjoy. It's a sticker placed on an A-5 made in 1967.

I see!

I have a "light twelve" that I've been using to hunt with but recently used heavy pheasant loads which resulted in the but plate cracking in half. I'm not sure how this happened as I have checked, and rechecked the friction ring multiple times to make sure it is set for heavy loads.

Should I not use heavy, high velocity pheasant loads with this shotgun?

Thanks for the info.I will start with the heavy setting and 18/3 oz and work on it from there.

Get the friction rings and spring from a regular or light auto five and put it in the magnum. Configure the rings for light loads and apply CLP to the mag tube like you would for any gas auto. Hope this helps!

The diagrams in the factory manuals have gone dead in the above posts and links.

What is the difference between the Friction Ring:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319065 ... 5-12-gauge

and the Friction Spring?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/789022 ... 5-12-gauge

There is also the Friction Piece and the Spring itself, but I'm pretty clear on those:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/554390 ... OBv1789022

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/830393 ... OBv1554390

This is NOT meant to be an advertisement for Midway so apologies if it comes off that way. I just don't understand if I need both the Spring and the Ring. I think I just need the ring based on the pictures I see on the forearm of the gun. I don't see a need or a use for the Friction Spring.

The spring fits over the friction piece...it's split so can be slid over the top
The ring fits between the now 2-part friction assembly & the recoil spring.
FOR HEAVY LOADS AT LEAST

Check out the A5 disassembly guide sticky at the top of the main Browning page on here...you can see what part goes where

Hi all,
and I recently inherited an A5 and would like to shoot real light loads for skeet...as in 3/4 oz...and I am wondering if anyone ever changed the spring inside for super light loads to get the gun to cycle the empties....I understand the placement of the friction rings for light loads, but I am shooting around 15 grains of 700x with the 3/4 oz. load using the claybuster wad.
thanks,
Terry