Mods Please Sticky. The advice below I collected over the years from dealing with old school Remington gunsmiths and is valuable information. Thank you.
Re: 1100 longevity, my first 12 ga 1100 receiver lasted almost 20 yrs of hard, registered shooting (over 50,000 rds since 1981) ; plus easily four times that number in non-registered practice shooting. 250,000 rds is a conservative estimate. It was probably closer to 300,000 rds.
The magazine tube finally broke off the receiver one day when I took apart that 1100 to clean it. It's barrel lasted another three years and probably 25,000 to 30,000 rds after the receiver was junked, before its extension developed a hairline crack near the locking lug recess.
It's bolt lasted another two seasons beyond that before it, too developed a crack near the extractor recess. The original 1981 firing pin after 300,000 estimated rounds is still going strong, though I have probably replaced two dozen firing pin RETRACTOR SPRINGS that broke around the pin during all that time.
The trick to 1100 longevity is as follows:
1. Change the action spring in the stock every 10,000 rds
(some say 5,000, but I've been getting 20-25 yrs of service life
going every 10,000) This is far more important than changing the buffer disc at the back of the bolt and prevents bolt to receiver impact (from the spring tension offering resistance
against the bolt's reward travel) A new action spring is 15" long from the factory before it is installed and compressed. 14-1/2" means - it's time to replace.
2. GREASE the top, exterior surface of the barrel extension
doing this, forms a cheap, "gel" cushion that soaks up the metal to metal impact of the top of the barrel extension against
the inner surface of the receiver top caused by vibrations during firing.
3. Grease the bottom flat surface of the outside of the barrel that presses against the foream support (spring steel bushing)
doing so will DOUBLE the service life of that fragile part.
4. Grease the surfaces of the receiver where the forend support bites into - again reduces some wear and soaks up vibrations
5. After about 100,000 rounds - switch to a locking lug marked with an etched "L" (for large, or long). This takes up the space worn by the friction of the standard lug against the barrel extension over time. Once that recess becomes sufficiently worn, you will get more "peen" impact of the locking lug as its fit becomes loosened and is allowed to whack the barrel extension harder due to the increased space it has to move in.
Once you do this, you're good for about another 100,000 rds
after that, you may need a new barrel. Tell tale signs of worn locking lug recesses include: primers backing out of factory shells. I've worn at least two barrels this way and have replaced a few for other people as well over the years.
6. Inspect the gas cylinder for "ridge burrs" Ridge burrs form from the ring friction from the action bar sleeve driving everything home, hard. Smoothing them out, carefully prevents "train wrecking" of the action bar/action bar sleeve/bolt assembly - all that inertia driven by the action spring slamming the piston and piston seal, home into the "collar" or more properly, GAS CYLINDER - driving the rings into the cylinder - hard - and then having the rings get "tripped up" on ridge burrs that formed inside the gas cylinder. Smoothing out those burrs - will DOUBLE the service life of the piston and piston seal.
7.DO NOT make a habit of using STEEL WOOL or metal abrasives on the magazine tube to clean it. Doing so, WILL over time, reduce the OD (outside diameter) of the mag tube enough to cause, loose ring fit and hence, GAS LOSS leading to irreparable functioning problems. Instead, use rags and solvents, wipe dry and put a drop or two of BREAK FREE on the tube. If you have enough caked on crud to scrape off, use a PLASTIC edged tool, like a disposable plastic picnic knife or other similar NON METAL MARRING plastic tool (expired cut up credit card or something) to scrape carbon residue from the tube.
8. ALWAYS put ONE drop of BREAK FREE or similar lube on the center of the firing pin spring where it is stressed the most.
9. Using a Q-TIP - NOT your fingers - GREASE the underside, flat surfaces of the receiver rails that contact the front part of the link (the "wing" part of the link) Doing this will reduce friction wear and lengthen service life of both the link, and the receiver. Also, new links should be polished, deburred and lubed to prevent burr "snags" during cycling-which leads to broken links and greasing the rails reduces friction wear and the thinning out of the rails which, over time, allows for more MOVEMENT of the link during the firing cycle, which leads to premature link breakage
10. Lube the white spots on the action bar and grease the "fracture point" on the right leg of the action bar.
Replace the link if not broken - after 5,000 shots before entering a serious tournament; replace the firing pin retractor spring at 5,000; the extractor at 10,000, the action spring at 10,000, the piston rings at 5,000 and the forend supports and
rubber vitron barrel seal at 3,000 rds to enhance reliability.
Also, when removing the recoil pad, stock or action spring - DO NOT bear down with your weight against the butt, and the mag tube end against the floor - that will stress the mag tube and lead to prematurely separating the mag tube from the receiver, causing it to be junked.
Following these proven steps along with regular cleaning, and your 1100 is highly unlikely to break down on the line. Mine has not broken down at a trap shoot in over ten years.
The 1100 can outlast a Perazzi or K-80 between parts breakages and will be on the spot repairable in minutes if not, seconds.
Tips acquired over 20 yrs from Remington gunsmiths, service techs and employee-shooters at the Grand and the old Remington Gun Club to include: Amerigo Pagliaroli(fmr mgr: Remington Gun Club & CTA Hall of Fame), "Tex" Cavaina(Sr. Remington 1100 gunsmith); the late Floyd "Jiggs" Cochran (Remington ballistician; CTA Hall of Fame); the late Dick Baldwin, (ATA Hall of Fame) and Daniel Buhan, (fmr trap mechanic of the Remington Gun Club & 1100 shooter) among others.
Re: 1100 longevity, my first 12 ga 1100 receiver lasted almost 20 yrs of hard, registered shooting (over 50,000 rds since 1981) ; plus easily four times that number in non-registered practice shooting. 250,000 rds is a conservative estimate. It was probably closer to 300,000 rds.
The magazine tube finally broke off the receiver one day when I took apart that 1100 to clean it. It's barrel lasted another three years and probably 25,000 to 30,000 rds after the receiver was junked, before its extension developed a hairline crack near the locking lug recess.
It's bolt lasted another two seasons beyond that before it, too developed a crack near the extractor recess. The original 1981 firing pin after 300,000 estimated rounds is still going strong, though I have probably replaced two dozen firing pin RETRACTOR SPRINGS that broke around the pin during all that time.
The trick to 1100 longevity is as follows:
1. Change the action spring in the stock every 10,000 rds
(some say 5,000, but I've been getting 20-25 yrs of service life
going every 10,000) This is far more important than changing the buffer disc at the back of the bolt and prevents bolt to receiver impact (from the spring tension offering resistance
against the bolt's reward travel) A new action spring is 15" long from the factory before it is installed and compressed. 14-1/2" means - it's time to replace.
2. GREASE the top, exterior surface of the barrel extension
doing this, forms a cheap, "gel" cushion that soaks up the metal to metal impact of the top of the barrel extension against
the inner surface of the receiver top caused by vibrations during firing.
3. Grease the bottom flat surface of the outside of the barrel that presses against the foream support (spring steel bushing)
doing so will DOUBLE the service life of that fragile part.
4. Grease the surfaces of the receiver where the forend support bites into - again reduces some wear and soaks up vibrations
5. After about 100,000 rounds - switch to a locking lug marked with an etched "L" (for large, or long). This takes up the space worn by the friction of the standard lug against the barrel extension over time. Once that recess becomes sufficiently worn, you will get more "peen" impact of the locking lug as its fit becomes loosened and is allowed to whack the barrel extension harder due to the increased space it has to move in.
Once you do this, you're good for about another 100,000 rds
after that, you may need a new barrel. Tell tale signs of worn locking lug recesses include: primers backing out of factory shells. I've worn at least two barrels this way and have replaced a few for other people as well over the years.
6. Inspect the gas cylinder for "ridge burrs" Ridge burrs form from the ring friction from the action bar sleeve driving everything home, hard. Smoothing them out, carefully prevents "train wrecking" of the action bar/action bar sleeve/bolt assembly - all that inertia driven by the action spring slamming the piston and piston seal, home into the "collar" or more properly, GAS CYLINDER - driving the rings into the cylinder - hard - and then having the rings get "tripped up" on ridge burrs that formed inside the gas cylinder. Smoothing out those burrs - will DOUBLE the service life of the piston and piston seal.
7.DO NOT make a habit of using STEEL WOOL or metal abrasives on the magazine tube to clean it. Doing so, WILL over time, reduce the OD (outside diameter) of the mag tube enough to cause, loose ring fit and hence, GAS LOSS leading to irreparable functioning problems. Instead, use rags and solvents, wipe dry and put a drop or two of BREAK FREE on the tube. If you have enough caked on crud to scrape off, use a PLASTIC edged tool, like a disposable plastic picnic knife or other similar NON METAL MARRING plastic tool (expired cut up credit card or something) to scrape carbon residue from the tube.
8. ALWAYS put ONE drop of BREAK FREE or similar lube on the center of the firing pin spring where it is stressed the most.
9. Using a Q-TIP - NOT your fingers - GREASE the underside, flat surfaces of the receiver rails that contact the front part of the link (the "wing" part of the link) Doing this will reduce friction wear and lengthen service life of both the link, and the receiver. Also, new links should be polished, deburred and lubed to prevent burr "snags" during cycling-which leads to broken links and greasing the rails reduces friction wear and the thinning out of the rails which, over time, allows for more MOVEMENT of the link during the firing cycle, which leads to premature link breakage
10. Lube the white spots on the action bar and grease the "fracture point" on the right leg of the action bar.
Replace the link if not broken - after 5,000 shots before entering a serious tournament; replace the firing pin retractor spring at 5,000; the extractor at 10,000, the action spring at 10,000, the piston rings at 5,000 and the forend supports and
rubber vitron barrel seal at 3,000 rds to enhance reliability.
Also, when removing the recoil pad, stock or action spring - DO NOT bear down with your weight against the butt, and the mag tube end against the floor - that will stress the mag tube and lead to prematurely separating the mag tube from the receiver, causing it to be junked.
Following these proven steps along with regular cleaning, and your 1100 is highly unlikely to break down on the line. Mine has not broken down at a trap shoot in over ten years.
The 1100 can outlast a Perazzi or K-80 between parts breakages and will be on the spot repairable in minutes if not, seconds.
Tips acquired over 20 yrs from Remington gunsmiths, service techs and employee-shooters at the Grand and the old Remington Gun Club to include: Amerigo Pagliaroli(fmr mgr: Remington Gun Club & CTA Hall of Fame), "Tex" Cavaina(Sr. Remington 1100 gunsmith); the late Floyd "Jiggs" Cochran (Remington ballistician; CTA Hall of Fame); the late Dick Baldwin, (ATA Hall of Fame) and Daniel Buhan, (fmr trap mechanic of the Remington Gun Club & 1100 shooter) among others.