Looking for an expert as I been told how critical this adjustment is, I have some info but would like to confirm or another method.
Adjustment spring in Buttstock makes closure spring tighter or looser?
Any info helpful. Just refinished stock and replaced fire pin, extractor and spring, ejector and spring and new closure spring. now reassembling.
no matter where i put the adjustment plug the bolt always has 1/8 free play and never even comes close to hitting back of reciever slot where handle recoild back into.
I guess its better to have spring on tighter side as shells ejecting real far been told thats no good? I had been experiencing a jam at times with hunting loads only - shell stuck in chamber opening after fire and new shell fully under bolt. locked fast to the only way to unjam is to disassemble.
Have procedure for model 50, but im thinking a 59 could be slightly different. ?
Thanks, rbdjr

Model 50 instructions I have was given to me from a fellow at another site.
"Pull bolt open with cocking handle and allow it to stay locked open. Tighten buffer until it just takes up on the inertia rod. To check this condition there should be a slight amount of movement in right slide to avoid jamming of parts. Then back off or unscrew the buffer plug 2 & 1/2 turns (2 1/2) to the first set of holes for the locking clip to lock in closure spring housing and buffer plug.
This will allow the slide handle to move between 3/32" and 1/8" reward from its normal locked open position. "
I have a model 59, and no matter where I tighten the buffer plug even if bottomed out the slide handle still moves and has that play and probably at least 3/8" away from bottoming out on receiver.

Have been given another set of instructions, specific to a model 50 but? very similar to above instructions but another different method?

Winchester Model 50 bolt timing adjustment

Check gun is empty

Close the bolt.

Remove butt-pad

Remove wishbone wire clip

With bolt closed, back off aluminum,screw plug with large slot, until the bolt will not stay locked in the open position.

When you get to that point, reverse the process screwing it in till the bolt locks back.

Place your finger on the operating handle and pull back and see how far the bolt will travel to the rear from that locked position.

By adjusting the aluminum plug 1/4 turn at a time till the bolt locks and you have approximately 1/16"-1/8" inch of rear bolt travel from the locked position.

Sometimes you can hit the mark on the first try.

Sometimes it takes a couple tries to get it right.

When re-inserting the wire clip, make sure it goes into the set of holes in line with the slotted plug closest to the adjustment."

Make sure the stock is secure but not over tightened.

Its tightened by the large aluminum housing that holds the action spring.

Make sure the stock is just snug FIRST! Do not over tighten! Then make the above adjustments!!

Then your gun is properly timed and should last for quite some time, watch for the hulls being thrown a farther distance, a sure sign it needs timed!

Do not file off the ejector! I've seen some closet gunsmiths that suggest this as a fix but it's a death knell for both these guns!!

Couple things backwards in that procedure listed. You screw in the buffer plug until the bolt won't lock back open. Then back out the buffer plug a little at a time until the bolt will just lock back in the open position. Then check to see if you need to back it off a little more to get that 1/16 - 1/8 travel.

As far as throwing empties. I use o-rings from the hardware store over the receiver and ejection port. Hokey I'm sure to most but it works good and the o-rings last a long time. I use these even when I've timed my gun. Only one o-ring at a time obviously

I also use the "O" idea on a Benelli shotgun I own, as they do not make a small metal clip on shell catcher available like on my Remington 1187

check the length of your spring. it should be between 13" and 11". anything less.....all the adjusting in the world wont help the bolt from striking the receiver and cracking it.
the good news is your 59 was factory modified with a hole at the end of the bolt handle groove. it helped that issue. but, the bolt still will hit the back of the receiver, cracking it back near the stock bolt attachment area if the spring is worn.

Brand New Wolf Spring as stated other new parts in 1rst post, New spring was approx 3 to 4 inches longer than original that came out.when I take plug out Im sure day or to I will get exact measurement. Im hoping eventually someone else must have ran into same thing as me on a 59

Thanks for info. rbdjr

"Just refinished stock and replaced fire pin, extractor and spring, ejector and spring and new closure spring. now reassembling."

I found my 59 difficult to work on, probably because I’m unfamiliar with it. Never did figure out how to get the stock off. Your experience may be different

Not hard to get stock of made a home made spanner socket , works well. 3/8" drive with a 1/4" adapter, comes on and off in less than 2 mins. I could tell you the size if interested

Thanks but I’m probably going to sell it, because I never shoot it and it is in 98% condition

let me know if you want to sell it Im interested

just measured old spring I replaced, was 10 1/4" new spring measure 12 1/2"

Not trying to insult you here, but seems like something is possibly amiss in the connection between the bolt and inertia rod? Any possibility of an error in reassembly after you had it completely apart? Just asking.

Im far from insulted, I did just disassemble and reassemble, ? I have made mistakes for sure in my past, more important to me to fix this than to be right?
I have worked all my life in automotive industry, GM master tech for 33 years, Auto instructor at a Vocation HS currently for last 9 years. I want to get this fixed properly.
Talked to a fellow at the range who will be back next Sunday said he has on and told me im welcome to disassemble as needed, so worse comes to worse Hopefully that will help me figure it out.

Great! So you can compare his gun to yours. Be interesting to see how his bolt functions before you do any disassembly, compared to yours now. Looking forward to what you might find out. Interestingly, when I disassembled my original owner (my first gun), the pin that tied the bolt, slides, and inertia rod was factured in half but the gun still functioned fine.

Happy hunting!

Normally you shouldn't be able to install the rod upside down - there's a bulge on the side that goes toward the bolt/top of the the receiver.

It is possible to miss the little hole in the rod and just have the rod kind of wedged between the bolt and the pin. But hand cycling the action a couple times should reveal the problem.

Thanks for the info, going to range a little bit later today, see what happens then, I definitely have the pin through the bolt and 2 slides one handle slide and left slide , I can load shells in it and manual eject and shells pop into chamber no problem as I cycle manual.

Well bought a repro paper work that came with gun "Instructions for your Model 59, and price and parts list off a auction site, just arrived in mail. I will post a picture after I adjust mine and shoot it.
Thanks all for so much help!

Model 59 12ga closure spring adjustment procedure

Personally not a fan of your posted closing spring adjustment , but that's just me. Not saying it won't work, just seems too busy.

? Its not my closing spring adjustment procedure, its directly from Model 59 Owners manual. This what the factory recommendation was. I know and you know since the gun has been produced and 82,085 units produced from 1959 to 1965, there could be a amended method that works better. but this is what I have and is a starting point.
Just got back from the range to test fire, worked and functioned perfectly. Now , I only ran Herter's target loads (25 year old shells) through it. Thought I would burn up some older shells had laying around. Now after finish cures a bit more I will buff and polish it off with BW Casey Stock Sheen & Conditioner .