For my first post on the Franchi Forum...
I just purchased a really nice Bronze & Max-5 Franchi Affinity 3.5 (28") to replace a heavier black Benelli Nova, and I'm thinking it will be easier to operate from my 10' kayak which will double as a layout blind once I finish making the custom camo cover or blind for it.
I've read all about the dreaded "Benelli click" which then followed to every other maker who has followed Benelli's design, including Franchi. From what I've read, the causes of it seem to be (in no particular order):
* Dirty bolt head
* Dirty locking lugs
* Easing the bolt forward
* Checking if the bolt locked/chamber loaded (and easing it FW again)
* Dirty firing pin
* Dirty recoil spring
* Bumping the charging handle back
* Slamming the butt on the bottom of blind/boat (may cause above)
* Wrong lube, or lube gummed up
I won't debate the merits of all those, but they are the various causes I've gleaned from several hours of interesting research into this problem - which most posters say are "100% operator error" and not the fault of the gun or its design.
It has occurred to me that what's needed is a better way "to see if the click might occur" - and for that, I put this image together.
==>> Why not inscribe thin "Witness Marks" on the bolt head and body as shown?
--> When they align - the bolt is locked in battery.
XX And when they don't - the bolt is out of battery.
I'm open to your thoughts on this but I wanted to put this out there for comment.
Old No7
I just purchased a really nice Bronze & Max-5 Franchi Affinity 3.5 (28") to replace a heavier black Benelli Nova, and I'm thinking it will be easier to operate from my 10' kayak which will double as a layout blind once I finish making the custom camo cover or blind for it.
I've read all about the dreaded "Benelli click" which then followed to every other maker who has followed Benelli's design, including Franchi. From what I've read, the causes of it seem to be (in no particular order):
* Dirty bolt head
* Dirty locking lugs
* Easing the bolt forward
* Checking if the bolt locked/chamber loaded (and easing it FW again)
* Dirty firing pin
* Dirty recoil spring
* Bumping the charging handle back
* Slamming the butt on the bottom of blind/boat (may cause above)
* Wrong lube, or lube gummed up
I won't debate the merits of all those, but they are the various causes I've gleaned from several hours of interesting research into this problem - which most posters say are "100% operator error" and not the fault of the gun or its design.
It has occurred to me that what's needed is a better way "to see if the click might occur" - and for that, I put this image together.
==>> Why not inscribe thin "Witness Marks" on the bolt head and body as shown?
--> When they align - the bolt is locked in battery.
XX And when they don't - the bolt is out of battery.
I'm open to your thoughts on this but I wanted to put this out there for comment.
Old No7