In a week and a half I'm going to see a smith who does stock work and has for many years. My gun is a browning CXS which is supposed to be a neutral stock, which I'm not sure if I believe(I think it has a touch of cast). Anyway I've shot it for a touch under two years. My scores seem similar to my field guns which are leftys(benelli). I really believe an adjustable comb on the CXS will help me, because at times my mount is a touch off without enough cheek pressure, not quite straight down the rib. My biggest question is on looking into an adjustable pad. I'm thinking either a little cast or cant on the toe will put the butt in my shoulder pocket better. It seems like a lot of these come on a recoil reduction system, gracoil, RAD, etc. I've read a lot of old posts on these on this website and there is a lot of different opinions. I understand that a gun that fits properly is a gun that produces less felt recoil. This is my primary goal. I just figured I'd post this in case there's anything I forgot, or any questions I should ask the stock man. If I was sitting on a mountain of dough I'd go and get a custom built stock from scratch, but at this point in my shooting I'm going this route of adjustable add-ons. Thanks everyone.

Have you had a session with a coach to check your stance and mount are right?

Fitting a gun when your mount is inconsistent is not a way to heaven and high scores

Is it a long drive for you to see this guy?

What kind of recoil issues are you having?

I would usually recommend creeping up on a situation like this. First thing you would want to establish would be the correct Length of Pull and pitch. Then do your adjustable comb and make sure he knows your thinking about a recoil device if needed so he can plan enough space for it.

The LOP and pitch may be a big part of the recoil issues you’re having. Also an adjustable comb may well place your pad in a different location than it is in now; so your pad may sit in a much more comfortable spot.

A real fitting includes live fire at the plate and at targets. Anything else is a waste of money. You can't fit a gun indoors in a showroom. Not all smiths are fitters and visa versa. You also need your mount checked.

I had two shotguns "Fitted" by the head gunsmith of the company that made them. Neither shot were I actually was looking and thinking the shot was going. When I got with an experience instructor, he was able to get them adjusted (the stocks had adjustable combs and ribs) I started to shoot them much better.

When I got my K-80 it was fitted in the showroom than pattern on a patterning board than re-adjusted, shot on a field with me mounting as I always do and re-adjusted a last time. I am now very happy, but I agree the correct way requires someone who really knows what they are doing and more than looking down the rib when you mount the gun.

Bob

And form/stance may need some changing also.

Life of Riley All the above posts are good advice. I have fitted many shotguns over the years and the Olympic skeet shooters (because of the low gun address position) take gun fit to another level. There is a (rather lengthy!) article about gun fit on my web. site. on the drop-down underneath GUNFIT.

www.peteblakeley.com

A real gun fitter will also use what is known as a try gun.

lt0026 Correct. That's what I have used for the last 40 years. Picture on my web. site. Many "gunfitters" don't have one.

lt0026 is spot on. You should be shooting the try stock for a period of time and then going back to have the finished product done.

Also, remember that the stock your are shooting today is fit to who you are as a shooter today. If your stance/mount/body change, so too will the fitting of the stock.

There are a lot of fake "fitters" and they are happy to take your money. they need a try gun , for you to shoot at a pattern plate(board) , and shoot actual targets.

Is your form pretty well in place?

Good luck.

I notice that in one of your posts from several months ago, you wrote "I've got 7 boxes of 3 dram 1 1/8oz. through the gun." You then went on to say something about trying even heavier field loads through the gun when you got a chance.

My suggestion is simple and doesn't require any money spent on gun fitting or new guns.
Shoot lighter loads!

The anticipation of recoil can cause all kinds of problems... not the least of which is flinching and jerking of the gun just as you get ready to fire. Your REAL problem may be related to vision, bad setup, bad technique, improper stance, or several other things which have nothing to do with gun fit.

Life of Riley What Sera says here is 100% correct. Notice in the article on my web. site I say that you should be relying on tactile assurance that tells your mount is good, not visual assurance. Any shooter can mount any gun and wriggle their head about to squint down the rib, but it's the wrong way. That's why the mirror doesn't work. That's why I answered a post on here about the beads, as others did.

Hey Ulysses, if you read my old posts, you should read them completely. That was concerning a Fabarm L4S initial HUNTER. I was trying to break in a GAS FIELD gun.

I haven't been shooting field loads through my citori

Life of Riley If you are what i call a "standard" sized guy ie. between 5'8" and 6'2" and medium build, at this stage, you probably don't need a gun fit. Why? Because all the manufacturers make off the shelf guns to fit Mr. Average. And rather than take your money I would tell you that if came to me, but many others wouldn't As I say in the article, you need some "shotgun technique" and if you can't shoot before the gun fit, you won't be miraculously turned into a George Digweed after it.

I will call and ask about shooting at the shop both pattern plates and targets. To try and answer everyones questions, it is a 45 minute drive to reach the shop. I haven't had much coaching due to the fact that there aren't any coaches that I'm aware of near me. If ever a good coach swings through MN/WI/IA I would try and book a lesson. Not feasible for me to fly across the country a few times a year for lessons. I would say my form is in place. That's one reason I've shot the gun a lot before looking into this. I practice my mount daily and shoot as much sc, 5 stand, and trap as I can. I've posted about this already but have read(and reread) stock fitters bible, shotgunning the art and the science, and a half dozen other books on shotgunning and gun fit. I have checked references on the shop and they are positive. I have thought about this for a long time. There is another gunsmith in MN who specializes in shotgun work and I will get in contact with him. It doesn't hurt to get multiple opinions. I'm not the expert but I really feel that a slight bit of cast at the comb would help me as a left shoulder/eye shooter and handling my gun for a good period of time. I will probably go with an adjustable comb and hold off adding an adjustable butt plate. I will update as the process continues. Thanks everyone for the advice.

P.S. I'll ask about a try gun too

Life of Riley I think you already said you have a copy of Successful Shotgunning? If so, this subject including pattern plates/try guns is covered in Chaper 6.

Good luck!

What a joke. When was the last one made? 70's? What company?

A try stock from a custom stock builder is a totally different thing.

A real gunfitting.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrnT_BfmC3Q

It isn't necessary to use "field loads" to begin anticipating recoil when shooting clay targets. The 3 Dram, 1 1/8 ounce target loads will work just fine for delivering more recoil than a person needs on a regular basis. I know that some people CLAIM to be unaffected by recoil, but the few who can continue to do that for a couple of decades without affecting their shooting are the exception, not the rule. So, what loads do you typically shoot as your clay target load? Also, what clay target game do you shoot the most loads at?