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wild bird shooting method

12K views 40 replies 20 participants last post by  Life of Riley 
#1 ·
I'm wondering, if you could sum it up in the simplest terms, what method you use to take most of your wild birds?
 
#4 ·
What I think Riley is asking is a survey of what type of lead technique successful bird hunters use.

For me, it almost exclusively starts out at least in my brain, as swing through; with a "move, mount, shoot", component built in.

Of course, one identifies the target (hen vs. cock; good duck vs. bad duck etc.); and ALWAYS...is the shot safe?...where are your partners, what's in the background.

Experience, opportunity, and repetition are paramount educational components in all of the above. I said I "start out as swing through" because that's what I've drubbed into my self taught unorthodox technique being an avid bird hunter for nigh on 55 years. That said, I do much more clays shooting than feathered shooting lately except for dove. I can hit with pull away, and to a lesser extent, purposeful sustained lead.

Even when I think I'm swinging through, in reality, somehow I'm getting the shot cloud into the path of the bird. I've killed lots and lots of birds of many types, in many different environments over the years. I'd venture to say I've experienced just about every general major type of shot available to N. American wing shooters. My bucket list dream would be real driven grouse in the British Isles or Europe but that will almost assuredly never happen; so I'm content reading and watching videos of those.

Since I've been coached in clays the past couple of years, if I were to think about and analyze my hits, whether they be clay or feather, they seem to almost all look like I pulled away or swung slightly through.

As you hunt more and more, your muscle memory will build and you'll likely be feeling your experiences closely mirror those of the previous posters. Wing shooting is an almost indescribably rewarding blessing. Enjoy it!
 
#6 ·
Kind of like asking a juggler to explain how he does it--easier to do than explain.

One thing I don't have to do is determine whether it is safe to shoot or not. I've already done that, with every step I take in the field. If there's any question about it, the gun stays put and I watch the bird fly away.
 
#9 ·
Whatever technique I felt was required to make the shot. No circumstance is truly the same and even in those that appear to be the same, whim may have me decide to use one method rather than another.

The varied shot opportunities are why there are different techniques used to take them. Being familiar and proficient at a couple different ones will allow one to bag more birds than being a master of just one.
 
#10 ·
I very carefully assess what technique of developing lead would be most suitable. Wait for perfect moment to smoothly mount and shoot. Cuss a lot and wonder how anybody could be SO inept and still alive! This is my proven methodology! Sheesh!
 
#12 ·
Churchill's method is probably the least useful technique for me, I find some technique that involves inserting the barrel in front of the target rather than behind to be much easier, quicker, and much more effective. Bobby's method probably worked well with the light, short barreled guns he touted but gun type and shooting knowledge has changed in the 60 some years since he published his thoughts. Getting a good running start provides enough gun speed to help prevent stopping the swing but so does a bit more weight out front with longer barrels. Or, a more aggressive move on the pull away method accomplishes the same affect but with less motion and time.

The rare occasions I catch myself using the pull through method typically sees me surprised and far out of position at the flush which has me playing catch up with the bird. The other occasion is for an incoming bird which is not very common in the uplands but is seen regularly waterfowling.
 
#15 ·
Gentlemen,

If you would like a good book on the subject, purchasing Ken Davies Better Shooting book and read the H&H method, then practice it. H&H still teaches Kens's methods even today. There are few people in the world that gunned wild birds like Ken Davies. Having gunned a lot of Grouse myself, each situation is a little different, crossers, in coming, straight aways and over head flyers are all a learned experience, techniques differ on each. There is no one technique that covers all the different situations, and each depends on how far away the wild bird happens to be from you the gunner.

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man
 
#17 ·
I always like to look for and focus on the birds head (beak if you can see it). The eyes drive the gun and if your focused on the head the gun will follow. For instance on a Pheasant that white ring around the neck stands out to me if the bird is presenting a side or incoming shot.

If it's a longish crossing shot I may mount and insert the barrel to the birds head and slowly pull away as I fire the shot. To be clear... it's not measuring how far to pull away but more of a feel. When the lead feels right trigger the shot. As with anything practicing these techniques on a skeet or sporting clays course will gain you experience on how this works.
 
#21 ·
In simple terms:
The most important part of wing shooting is a consistent motion mount. Depending on range and angle swing through, pull away, or sustained lead may be used. Generally for me though the sight picture is seen as the gun comes up. That is pretty close to where I mount the shotgun. The second bird of a double is most often swing through for me.
Willie
 
#22 ·
Willie T,

I take it sir that you are not a Grouse gunner from your description of your sight picture. When hunting Grouse your sight picture may change 2 or 3 times as you gun the Grouse as the bird flies thru the forest, instantly putting trees or other foliage between itself and the predator/gunner. Muscle memory and quickly mounting your gun properly while never taking your eyes off the bird are seriously important when Grouse gunning. In fact when done properly a Grouse hunter will have his dog retrieving the Grouse before he realizes that he has even gunned the bird. Setting up to gun the bird properly, a smooth gun mount while using the thumb safe, and never taking your eyes off the flying Grouse, along with never stopping the gun swing until the bird falls is a learned experience. The longer most men Grouse hunt the better they become at it. Young Grouse hunters who aim at the birds, shoot very few Grouse.

When shooting doubles, always concentrate on shooting the 1st bird, the 2nd birds should be totally instinctive gunning, even if the bird is flying in a completely different direction.

The other important lesson is to always trust your Grouse Dog. The dog is the hunter, you are the gunner.

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man

 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
Pine Creek Dave,
I think you may have mistaken me for someone else. I'm quite capable of describing how I wing shoot. I'm also well versed at wing shooting in heavy cover.
These pics are from this week.
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89BE7B39-FF69-47C0-B78C-2AD6F470CA95.jpeg

Shooting was 3 for 3 and included a double.

In the circle of those I bird hunt with unsolicited advice regarding ones wing shooting is considered poor form.

Willie T
 

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#25 ·
Pine Creek/Dave said:
Willie T,

I take it sir that you are not a Grouse gunner from your description of your sight picture. When hunting Grouse your sight picture may change 2 or 3 times as you gun the Grouse as the bird flies thru the forest, instantly putting trees or other foliage between itself and the predator/gunner. Muscle memory and quickly mounting your gun properly while never taking your eyes off the bird are seriously important when Grouse gunning. In fact when done properly a Grouse hunter will have his dog retrieving the Grouse before he realizes that he has even gunned the bird. Setting up to gun the bird properly, a smooth gun mount while using the thumb safe, and never taking your eyes off the flying Grouse, along with never stopping the gun swing until the bird falls is a learned experience. The longer most men Grouse hunt the better they become at it. Young Grouse hunters who aim at the birds, shoot very few Grouse.

When shooting doubles, always concentrate on shooting the 1st bird, the 2nd birds should be totally instinctive gunning, even if the bird is flying in a completely different direction.

The other important lesson is to always trust your Grouse Dog. The dog is the hunter, you are the gunner.

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man It's
Grouse Grouse Grouse! Grouse guns, Grouse dogs! Grouse gunners! It's tiring. Much of that is true of all bird shooting, and ALL of it is true for bobwhites in the south, including heavy cover and trees trees trees. If your dogs are retrieving the bird before I realize I've shot it, they're not steady to wing and shot. To each his own I suppose.

No doubt grouse hunting is a great way to spend a day with your dogs. So is every other type of upland hunting - pheasant, quail, and chukars. Hells bells, even waterfowl hunting with a great dog fills that space in our hearts. Come south some time and hunt bobwhites in the pine woods.

Your post reads like condescending unsolicited advice.
 
#26 ·
jer901,

Having hunted more than a few wild Texas Quail I have no problem with Quail hunting. Never meant to be condescending, however Grouse hunting is not like hunting Wild Quail, the methods are definitely different. We were talking about wild bird shooting methods, Grouse are wild birds. If it's tiring for you stop participating in the thread.

Pine Creek/Dave
Pine Creek Grouse Dog Trainers

 
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