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New to shotgun reloading, looking to load 28 gauge

48K views 43 replies 30 participants last post by  Dalee100 
#1 ·
Never reloaded shotgun before. Can anyone recommend a good resource for more information? Also, anyone have any recipes for somewhat heavy hunting load in the 7/8 -15/16 oz range? Will be using 6 and 7.5 shot. I have 250 Remington Field & Clay hulls so was hoping to use those if they are decent.

Not sure where to start as far as which powder, wads or even brand of shot. I have a MEC loader.

Thank you,
Mike
 
#27 ·
+1 on using "littlegun" and 7/8oz. I stay away from hot rodding and keep mine at around 1250 FPS and they work excellent on pigeons, white wings, mornings and euros. I recently shipped my grabber mec for an overhaul and what I received back is like a new machine. And they did the work in 48hrs and shipped it right back. I've kept their box and plan to do the same with my 45 year old 12ga mec progressive. So don't be afraid of buying something used as it can be fixed up for the fraction of the cost of new. Trainer Hale supply close to Seguin, Texas also works on mec reloading presses and they prefer them to the high dollar options. DL
 
#28 ·
I just drove thru Oxford a few hours ago on my way back from picking up an order at Powder Valley outside of Winfield. Small world indeed. I load 28 gauge 3/4 oz. chilled #9 shot skeet loads with 20/28, Claybuster wads, W209 primer. I have two MEC 28 ga. loaders one 600jr. that I bought at a garage sale and a 9000 that I don't remember where it came from. Start with a single stage 600jr. or Sizemaster to learn the ropes and then if you shoot enough think about a progressive. I think I gave $70 for my 28 ga. 600 jr. and it was in great shape. 12 and 20 ga. 600's have been bought for as little as $45 -$50 which included the auto primer feeder. The high price of shot has driven the used shotgun reloading press resale way down especially on the 12 and 20 gauges (used .410 and 28ga. sell for more but still reasonable usually). Sweet shooting gauge for sure. Good luck and enjoy!
 
#29 ·
You guys rock I am new here and within a couple of hours have learned much. I hunt almost exclusively wit a 28 gauge Remington 870 Wingmaster that I bought as a gift for myself a few years ago. I hunt Rabbits and Doves and had been buying factory ammo. Last week a friend who is an FFL licensed gun dealer called and told me of a gentleman who had some reloading equipment that he did not use anymore and asked if I would take a look at it. Ended up with a MEC Sizemaster and a 500 count bag of Claybuster WAA 28HS wads for $50.00 dollars and 20 boxes of factory 28 gauge ammo for another $100.00. The ammo was older Federal, Nobel Sport and Winchester that had been kept indoors since he bought it.His plan was to hunt once retired and reload but his health declined before that happened.Want to use the reloader and you folks answered my questions before I even asked.
 
#30 ·
I just wanna double up on the praise for @OldStufferA5#1911 and say to gather all those answers and all that experience into a small book. Seriously. The field needs a to the point, succinct beginners guide. I'm a newbie too and in a country where hand loading shotgun shells is not a thing. If you add to that the fact that I'm going to load for a 28 gauge...

I've found so much help and generosity over at 28 gauge society as well as reading posts here. Nonetheless a compact publication would go a long way to simplify the process for someone like me and I am sure countless others. Thank you again.
 
#32 ·
I am also new to reloading, using a MEC 600 Jr Mark 5 and am trying to find decent 1oz loads for a 28ga. I have new Cheddite primed hulls (209 primers) and SG28II wads. I also have a bunch of used Fiocchi, Estate and Winchester hulls. I have both L'il Gun and UNiversal from Hodgdon and IMR Blue as these seemed to the most broadly applicable powders for 12, 16 and 28 ga powders.

Figured it'd be easier to load the new hulls so I went about carefully measuring weights of powder. I started with a 7/8 oz recipe from Hodgdon that called for 23.5 gr of Lil gun under the SG28II wad. When filled and crimped, I had a significant "dish" in the crimp with about 1/4 inch of empty space....not what I was expecting. I then carefully measured out a 1 oz load of #8 by weight on the scale and lo and behold, perfect shell. I suspect that 23.5 gr will be insufficient powder - I've seen a couple of postings showing 28 gr of lil gun but I don't see that recipe anywhere. FYI I have an older shotgun reloading manual that has NO 1 oz loads.

So, more than half of the posts I read say "never substitute anything in a recipe" and the remainder say "pretty well all works so long as you aren't stupid about powder loads...." or something similar. I'd really like to understand why #1 my shell, following a published recipe, was "short loaded" and what difference it would be to load a "proper 1 oz load that fits would be a problem. To be specific, I would look to load the following:

Cheddite Hulls primed with 209
SG28II wads
Lil gun at 27 - 28 grains (as appropriate for pressure)
1 oz of either #6 or #8 lead shot (the #6 is nickel plated)

As mentioned I also have both Hodgdon Universal and IMR Blue as I intend to load 16 ga and perhaps 12 and 20 ga as well. Primary reloading will be in both 28 and 16 (which are obviously very different.....). Any thought re: this same load using the Estate, Fiocchi and Winchester hulls would also be appreciated,

FYI - my 28 ga is a 1970s vintage Mujica Spanish sxs - sweet little lightweight gun and nothing fancy but it sure is fun to shoot!

One last question - when I tried reloading the used hulls, the initial stage for punching out the primer and reforming the case left a "ring" around the base of the brass on every type hull. Is my press set too low or what am I doing wrong?

Any guidance or thoughts re: the above would be greatly appreciated. Perhaps the best answer will be to purchase a new reloading manual, and if so, that'd be great but I would really appreciate hearing from those of you who have reloaded for a long time.

Thanks in advance to responders.......
 
#33 ·
The Power Ring Sizer has to stroke ALMOST fully to the baseplate of the press, it has to go to the hull rim, so, from the sound of it, yours is likely adjusted too high.

Measure, check, and adjust (loosen lockring, screw sizer ring down a bit, re-lock, retest), lather, rinse, repeat as necessary.

Not all load recipes fit correctly, I know I know, the world shouldn't work that way, but it does.

A dished crimp is because the Stack Height is too short.
You have too little powder, to little shot, or too short a wad.
The fix is either more, or more, or longer.
You don't really want to go with "more" of either IF load pressures are already near maximum, if they are not however, there is "cushion" for increased powder charge or increased payload weight to increase pressure.

"Adding more" is only a cure for SMALL dishes, if it dishes really deeply, the wad is the basic problem, and needs changed.

Not all powders are the same density (weight per volume), ball powders tend to be very heavy in small piles, extruded flakes such as Blue tend to be very fluffy, an appropriate charge of dense ball powder that doesn't fit (stack height issues) CAN in some cases be fixed by changing to a fluffier (less dense) powder, again, at an appropriate charge level.

Loads that fit a cheddite hull are going to likely fit exactly the same in a Fiocci hull, they are made the same with the same internal volume.
They MIGHT fit that Estate hull, it depends on how thick the basewad is (internal volume again), I am not familiar enough with the construction of a Winchester 28ga hull to say much as to whether or not it will fit there, again, basewad height/internal case volume is what matters.

"Hull Identification" is the #1 importance in shotshell loading, but that ID has absolutely NOTHING to do with Ink on the outside of the case or the color of plastic (or brass/metal head height). It has entirely to do with the internal construction and thus internal volume of the hull, as to whether or not a certain stack of components will fit or not.

Also, those Cheddite hulls are going to require Euro-primners, tehyua re very slightly larger in diameter than "domestic" #209 size shotshell primers, so, you are either going to have to keep 2 sizes of primers straight (Winchesters and maybe Federal Estates vs. Fiocci/Cheddites) or isolate yourself to the European primers and force them into the domestic hulls (doesn't "hurt" them, but you can't use Domestic primers ever again, loose, they will fall out).
 
#34 ·
Oldstuffer - thanks for the info and the reply - as a newbie, it's clear I've got a LOT!!!!!! to learn. Like so many things these days, why can't the manufacturers standardize? Nothing to do about if but work with it. I am learning - need a brass crimp starter - that's one of teh things that I've learned will help. I will also be going back to my recipe and confirming weights, charges, wads, etc. Based on my initial efforts, standard charge with "recipe" components is too short while upping it to 1oz shot gets a better albeit slightly longer shell with kind of a fat "lip" or "ring" around the top of the reload. I am going to try decreasing the shot charge just a bit and see if that doesn't solve the problem of length, dish and "lip bulge". I figure as long as I don't exceed the recipes as found in various resources (Lymans, etc manuals r the manufacturers directly), going a little lighter on the shot charge shouldn't cause a pressure issue. I'll post back when I get this to work.

Oh, on the shell base issue, I found I wasn't depressing the resizer all the way - making sure it went all the way down as you noted solved the problem. Still get a little bit of vertical scoring on the brass but it seems to be from the resizing and does not appear to have compromised the shell.

Thanks again for the helpful response!
 
#35 ·
Great info dump on 28 gauge reloading. A couple of points:

I've used MEC 650s in 12 and 28 gauge for 20 years and a Grabber in 20 gauge. Yes, I have a Supersizer in 12 gauge, too. But the only time I use it is once on just scavenged hulls. I have NEVER had a case head size problem. If it worked in your gun before, it'll fit again. I like a loader without a collet sizer as powder and shot spills are a pain in the *** (or more properly, pain in the collet).

My MEC 650 seems made for Winchester AA and AAHS hulls; others don't crimp as well.

Universal or Unique for everyday target loads, Longshot for a little more weight or speed, Lil' Gun for the hunting loads.

And regardless of type of charge bar, buy a scale or two (one manual, one electronic). I find my MEC bushings throw light.

For informal practice or skeet, you may want to try 5/8 oz #9 reloads. Cheap and you'll be surprised how effective they are.
 
#36 ·
Ron Huff said:
Ended up with a MEC Sizemaster and a 500 count bag of Claybuster WAA 28HS wads for $50.00 dollars and 20 boxes of factory 28 gauge ammo for another $100.00.
Nice deal, Ron!
 
#37 ·
Nice deal indeed! $5/box for 28? All I can say is Wow! and I'm incredibly jealous/envious!!

I really appreciate the advice and suggestions - my primary concern (after periodically weighing charges to be sure they are consistent - is to make sure I don't do something to inadvertently increase pressures above safe levels. I'd rather be a little light on velocity (but not too light) and I just didn't realize that even the primers can make a difference in pressures. I just hope that the Fiocchi primers aren't too hot for most of what I plan to reload as I've got 1000 of them......... Like everyone seems to say on the various boards, follow the recipes and/or start at the low end of what is recommended and see what the gun likes. I'll check back in as I get going more consistently and will be asking many more questions before I'm done.
 
#38 ·
Lots of great advice here. I would only add that I'd start with 2028 powder as it's pretty flexible and burns clean. I find CB wads excellent for the money. Cheddite, FIocchi and Rio primers have steel cups and can create problems for some guns firing pins over the longer haul, while Win or Rem have softer cups and may be easier on your gun over the longer term. For whatever reason though, Rem primers are stupid expensive, so Win is what I personally settled on, but all primers except perhaps Rems are in pretty short supply right now.
 
#39 ·
plindquist said:
I am also new to reloading, using a MEC 600 Jr Mark 5 and am trying to find decent 1oz loads for a 28ga. I have new Cheddite primed hulls (209 primers) and SG28II wads. I also have a bunch of used Fiocchi, Estate and Winchester hulls. I have both L'il Gun and UNiversal from Hodgdon and IMR Blue as these seemed to the most broadly applicable powders for 12, 16 and 28 ga powders.

Figured it'd be easier to load the new hulls so I went about carefully measuring weights of powder. I started with a 7/8 oz recipe from Hodgdon that called for 23.5 gr of Lil gun under the SG28II wad. When filled and crimped, I had a significant "dish" in the crimp with about 1/4 inch of empty space....not what I was expecting. I then carefully measured out a 1 oz load of #8 by weight on the scale and lo and behold, perfect shell. I suspect that 23.5 gr will be insufficient powder - I've seen a couple of postings showing 28 gr of lil gun but I don't see that recipe anywhere. FYI I have an older shotgun reloading manual that has NO 1 oz loads.

So, more than half of the posts I read say "never substitute anything in a recipe" and the remainder say "pretty well all works so long as you aren't stupid about powder loads...." or something similar. I'd really like to understand why #1 my shell, following a published recipe, was "short loaded" and what difference it would be to load a "proper 1 oz load that fits would be a problem. To be specific, I would look to load the following:

Cheddite Hulls primed with 209
SG28II wads
Lil gun at 27 - 28 grains (as appropriate for pressure)
1 oz of either #6 or #8 lead shot (the #6 is nickel plated)

As mentioned I also have both Hodgdon Universal and IMR Blue as I intend to load 16 ga and perhaps 12 and 20 ga as well. Primary reloading will be in both 28 and 16 (which are obviously very different.....). Any thought re: this same load using the Estate, Fiocchi and Winchester hulls would also be appreciated,

FYI - my 28 ga is a 1970s vintage Mujica Spanish sxs - sweet little lightweight gun and nothing fancy but it sure is fun to shoot!

One last question - when I tried reloading the used hulls, the initial stage for punching out the primer and reforming the case left a "ring" around the base of the brass on every type hull. Is my press set too low or what am I doing wrong?

Any guidance or thoughts re: the above would be greatly appreciated. Perhaps the best answer will be to purchase a new reloading manual, and if so, that'd be great but I would really appreciate hearing from those of you who have reloaded for a long time.

Thanks in advance to responders.......
Can we check that, it sounds a little "warm"
 
#40 ·
cookoff013 said:
plindquist said:
I am also new to reloading, using a MEC 600 Jr Mark 5 and am trying to find decent 1oz loads for a 28ga. I have new Cheddite primed hulls (209 primers) and SG28II wads. I also have a bunch of used Fiocchi, Estate and Winchester hulls. I have both L'il Gun and UNiversal from Hodgdon and IMR Blue as these seemed to the most broadly applicable powders for 12, 16 and 28 ga powders.

Figured it'd be easier to load the new hulls so I went about carefully measuring weights of powder. I started with a 7/8 oz recipe from Hodgdon that called for 23.5 gr of Lil gun under the SG28II wad. When filled and crimped, I had a significant "dish" in the crimp with about 1/4 inch of empty space....not what I was expecting. I then carefully measured out a 1 oz load of #8 by weight on the scale and lo and behold, perfect shell. I suspect that 23.5 gr will be insufficient powder - I've seen a couple of postings showing 28 gr of lil gun but I don't see that recipe anywhere. FYI I have an older shotgun reloading manual that has NO 1 oz loads.

So, more than half of the posts I read say "never substitute anything in a recipe" and the remainder say "pretty well all works so long as you aren't stupid about powder loads...." or something similar. I'd really like to understand why #1 my shell, following a published recipe, was "short loaded" and what difference it would be to load a "proper 1 oz load that fits would be a problem. To be specific, I would look to load the following:

Cheddite Hulls primed with 209
SG28II wads
Lil gun at 27 - 28 grains (as appropriate for pressure)
1 oz of either #6 or #8 lead shot (the #6 is nickel plated)

As mentioned I also have both Hodgdon Universal and IMR Blue as I intend to load 16 ga and perhaps 12 and 20 ga as well. Primary reloading will be in both 28 and 16 (which are obviously very different.....). Any thought re: this same load using the Estate, Fiocchi and Winchester hulls would also be appreciated,

FYI - my 28 ga is a 1970s vintage Mujica Spanish sxs - sweet little lightweight gun and nothing fancy but it sure is fun to shoot!

One last question - when I tried reloading the used hulls, the initial stage for punching out the primer and reforming the case left a "ring" around the base of the brass on every type hull. Is my press set too low or what am I doing wrong?

Any guidance or thoughts re: the above would be greatly appreciated. Perhaps the best answer will be to purchase a new reloading manual, and if so, that'd be great but I would really appreciate hearing from those of you who have reloaded for a long time.

Thanks in advance to responders.......
Can we check that, it sounds a little "warm"
Yep way to hot for my liking with LilGun , maybe 3/4 oz but 1 oz usually takes 25/26 grs !
With Lead I prefer 14/15.5 of Longshot.....in a Ched hull !
 
#41 ·
Thanks for the responses....the recipe for 3/4 oz using Lilgun was 23 grains and anything else was all over the place. I can certainly load down and start at 23 or 24 but as I"m such a newbie, I didn't know if this would result in problems of too low pressure.I'll probably alos back off the shot load little bit as well to maybe 7/8 or 15/16ths oz.
I don't think dropping the powder charge a bit would negatively affect pressures unless I went way too low but you guys that have been doing this for a while have a MUCH better sense of the effects of lighter vs heavier powder charge. And fear not, I haven't loaded ANY at the recipe level in my post. Trying to be really cautious as I learn the ropes.

Thanks again to all for your willingness to share you experience - I really appreciate it!
 
#42 ·
cookoff013 said:
plindquist said:
I am also new to reloading, using a MEC 600 Jr Mark 5 and am trying to find decent 1oz loads for a 28ga. I have new Cheddite primed hulls (209 primers) and SG28II wads. I also have a bunch of used Fiocchi, Estate and Winchester hulls. I have both L'il Gun and UNiversal from Hodgdon and IMR Blue as these seemed to the most broadly applicable powders for 12, 16 and 28 ga powders.

Figured it'd be easier to load the new hulls so I went about carefully measuring weights of powder. I started with a 7/8 oz recipe from Hodgdon that called for 23.5 gr of Lil gun under the SG28II wad. When filled and crimped, I had a significant "dish" in the crimp with about 1/4 inch of empty space....not what I was expecting. I then carefully measured out a 1 oz load of #8 by weight on the scale and lo and behold, perfect shell. I suspect that 23.5 gr will be insufficient powder - I've seen a couple of postings showing 28 gr of lil gun but I don't see that recipe anywhere. FYI I have an older shotgun reloading manual that has NO 1 oz loads.

So, more than half of the posts I read say "never substitute anything in a recipe" and the remainder say "pretty well all works so long as you aren't stupid about powder loads...." or something similar. I'd really like to understand why #1 my shell, following a published recipe, was "short loaded" and what difference it would be to load a "proper 1 oz load that fits would be a problem. To be specific, I would look to load the following:

Cheddite Hulls primed with 209
SG28II wads
Lil gun at 27 - 28 grains (as appropriate for pressure)
1 oz of either #6 or #8 lead shot (the #6 is nickel plated)

As mentioned I also have both Hodgdon Universal and IMR Blue as I intend to load 16 ga and perhaps 12 and 20 ga as well. Primary reloading will be in both 28 and 16 (which are obviously very different.....). Any thought re: this same load using the Estate, Fiocchi and Winchester hulls would also be appreciated,

FYI - my 28 ga is a 1970s vintage Mujica Spanish sxs - sweet little lightweight gun and nothing fancy but it sure is fun to shoot!

One last question - when I tried reloading the used hulls, the initial stage for punching out the primer and reforming the case left a "ring" around the base of the brass on every type hull. Is my press set too low or what am I doing wrong?

Any guidance or thoughts re: the above would be greatly appreciated. Perhaps the best answer will be to purchase a new reloading manual, and if so, that'd be great but I would really appreciate hearing from those of you who have reloaded for a long time.

Thanks in advance to responders.......
Can we check that, it sounds a little "warm"
Hi,

Hodgdon lists a 1oz load with 23 to 23.5 grains LiLGun in a Fio hull with the BP HV28 wad and Cheddite or Fio primers for what it's worth.

Those who are more knowledgeable than me state that Euro Reifenhauser hulls are pretty much interchangeable if the load fits. YMMV depending on your willingness.
 
#43 ·
An ounce of shot in a light 28 ga. Is not a fun gun to shoot. An ounce is more suited to 16 ga. or even 12.
 
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