Shotgun Forum banner

stock finish

6K views 40 replies 16 participants last post by  MNGunner 
#1 ·
I recently bought two new Browning over unders. They have a nice high gloss polyurethane on the stock and forearm. I also have a Fabarm that has a oiled finish which I prefer. Is it more costly for a manufacture to put a oil finish on their wood ? I find that a oiled finish is easier to maintain as small nicks and scrapes are are easier to cover up. What do you prefer?
 
#27 ·
I don't know what was in the DuPont RKW finish that Remington used on their guns for years and years, but it was tough as nails and I thought that it was quite attractive. Shiny was the style back in those days along with the white line spacers. I still like 'em
 
#28 ·
casonet said:
I don't know what was in the DuPont RKW finish that Remington used on their guns for years and years, but it was tough as nails and I thought that it was quite attractive. Shiny was the style back in those days along with the white line spacers. I still like 'em
So do I, I even put white line spacers on ones that aren't supposed to. Grip caps also.
 
#29 ·
seb7515 said:
My beard cuts through most oil finishes.
I don't know what you guys are doing to wear thru oil finishes like this. I have several oil finished shotguns I have used for decades. Many of the guys I hunt with also have oil finished guns they've used for decades as well and we don't experience this type of wear with oil finishes.
 
#30 ·
Sam Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO
 
#31 ·
Eibar said:
I've been working with Timberluxe and I'm very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it's almost dry. I'm liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.
Nice! I'm a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it's likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.
 
#32 ·
Patently Obvious said:
Eibar said:
I've been working with Timberluxe and I'm very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it's almost dry. I'm liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.
Nice! I'm a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it's likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.
Get yourself a can of Bloxigen. It is an inert gas that you squirt into a partially used can of finish and the gas prevents oxygen from geting to and curing the remaining amount.
I have used it for years with quite a few different finishes and it will not effect the product you are using.

CT
 
#33 ·
Pullandmark said:
I just refinished two Citoris to a satin finish using Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Here is a link to my post.
https://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewto ... 2&t=528510
I've used a lot of finishes over the years. 5 years ago did my first gun an Ithaca 37 16 ga. with Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Still looks as good as when I finished it despite being carried for miles in the rain and snow. And busting brush. You made a good choice IME.





 
#35 ·
blindretrieve said:
Sm Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO
That's what Watco Danish Oil is (from their website):

"WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish hardens in the wood, not on the wood. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. "
 
#36 ·
Patently Obvious said:
Eibar said:
I've been working with Timberluxe and I'm very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it's almost dry. I'm liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.
Nice! I'm a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it's likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.
I've been using a .5oz bottle for some two weeks now without any jelling of the product. However, lately I've been using the gas recommended for extending the life of the oil. In any case, I'm liking TimberLuxe a lot, and having Brian ready to answer any and all questions is a big plus.

My son-in-law is doing at the same time another stock with a Purdey-type formula he's made which includes carnuba and beeswax, plus BLO and some expensive turpentine, etc. His is starting to look great. But I'm on my fifth coat of TimberLuxe today and I wouldn't change if Mr. Purdey himself would offer to do mine. :)
 
#37 ·
searun said:
Patently Obvious said:
Eibar said:
I've been working with Timberluxe and I'm very positively impressed. I wait at least 24hrs between application and rub it with my fingers until it's almost dry. I'm liking it better than True Oil which is rather thick and as a result more difficult to apply.
Nice! I'm a fan of Timberluxe too. Only complaint is it does go bad quick once opened. Rich Cole uses it on the higher end oil finish guns he sell down in Florida. For field guns good. For sporting guns in high humidity, exposed to sun screen, and high usage it's likely not the best choice. But like any other oil finish, a quick application will bring it around. Problem is you need to crack a new bottle.
Get yourself a can of Bloxigen. It is an inert gas that you squirt into a partially used can of finish and the gas prevents oxygen from geting to and curing the remaining amount.
I have used it for years with quite a few different finishes and it will not effect the product you are using.

CT
Correct. I'm using the same thing with good results.
 
#38 ·
MNGunner said:
blindretrieve said:
Sm Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO
That's what Watco Danish Oil is (from their website):

"WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish hardens in the wood, not on the wood. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. "
https://www.sammaloofwoodworker.com/furniture

Sam Maloof , has been building fine furniture for a Long long time.. (1950,or so) His finish was always kept a secret.. He finally divulged it.. During the time it was a secret, many companies tried to mimic it..
Rockler now sell the finish in a can with Maloofs name on it..

It is WAY more durable than Watco.. No comparison..

https://www.sammaloofwoodworker.com/sam-maloof-legacy

https://www.rockler.com/sam-maloof-s-fi ... paign=(ROI)_Shopping_-_Finishing&msclkid=8e4819d91abe1e6738a779e0a28f65a0
 
#39 ·
Anyone ever heard of "Arrow" oil finish? My buddy swears by it, so I bought some. It's a true oil finish but it dries very quickly. I was quite happy with the results
 
#40 ·
i have Maloofs finish on several shooter gunstocks. i use minwax fast dry poly as the varnish in mix.
Its Very durable after you get a decent build.. The first few coats penetrate and go INTO the wood, then progressive coats adds build and desired sheen..

I am not overly careful with common gun cleaning solvents.. never had a problem with solvents attacking the finish.. guns have been hunted in heavy rain, and blowing snow..

I LOVE the finish.. Its easy and bullet proof.. You CANT screw it up..



The two gunstocks right to left have the finish. Remington 514 .22,,and then Winchester model 1890. .22 long rifle









.22 rifle stock, finish applied very sparingly over factory Winchester finish, that was very thin and worn in spots.. I did a light buff first with 0000 steel wool, wiped down well with spirits,, then wiped on a single coat of Maloofs finish.. It blended well with factory,,and I saved the covetted red Wincheser color.. (Winchester 67 ,,shooter gun). I left dings and dents in wood deliberatly, because of sentimental attachment as to who made them..... my dad.. :) You can adjust sheen to your liking. ( finish looks shinier than it is in pic.. Finish looks factory,, Finish is on cabinet doors in background .

I do own expensive spray equiptment, and spray Cat lacquer when I must,,but it now costs a small fortune to cleans guns ,, silly for a small project...

This finish only requires a few Original Scotts Blue paper shop towels to wipe on and buff off finish.. I keep a small amount of mixed Maloofs finish in a sealable lid mason jar, on a shelf in shop
 
#41 ·
blindretrieve said:
MNGunner said:
blindretrieve said:
Sm Maloof.. Oil, Varnish mix... Many DIY recipes can be found on line..

You can make the mix as durable as you require with the Varnish you choose.. I choose Minwan fast dri semi gloss Poly.. You can use any OIL BASED you like... Behlens, Formbys,,, ect ect
1/3 oil, 1/3 Varnish, 1/3 mineral sprits.. You can adjust the amount of oil to help speed drying.. I pretty much leave it out after the first coat or two. Oil will have penetrated as much as it going to by then..

The beauty of this finish it is foolproof.. If you follow application instrutions, you wipe on (I use Scotts Original blue shop towels) liberal coat, let dry till it becomes just slightly tacky, then wipe off residual. let that dry ( really fast) then repeat, till you get sheen and protetion you want... (it will build fairly fast, and each application, will dry quick.)

The finish is foolproof, becaue you wipe all residual finish off, so there is never finish left in place to attract dust and particulate..

It a beautiful finish..

JMHO
That's what Watco Danish Oil is (from their website):

"WATCO® Danish Oil is a unique blend of penetrating oil & varnish hardens in the wood, not on the wood. WATCO® Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish. "
https://www.sammaloofwoodworker.com/furniture

Sam Maloof , has been building fine furniture for a Long long time.. (1950,or so) His finish was always kept a secret.. He finally divulged it.. During the time it was a secret, many companies tried to mimic it..
Rockler now sell the finish in a can with Maloofs name on it..

It is WAY more durable than Watco.. No comparison..

https://www.sammaloofwoodworker.com/sam-maloof-legacy

https://www.rockler.com/sam-maloof-s-fi ... paign=(ROI)_Shopping_-_Finishing&msclkid=8e4819d91abe1e6738a779e0a28f65a0
Thanks for the tip, I'll give that a try. Love Rockler (and it's not too far from me)!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top