Shotgun Forum banner
  • Whether you're a greenhorn or a seasoned veteran, your collection's next piece is at Bass Pro Shops. Shop Now.

    Advertisement
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

eastwa

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am brand new to shotshell loading, I have received a used 600 Jr and have purchased the Lyman #5 manual.
The press came with (and is set up for) 2 3/4" STS hulls, and a bag of Blue Duster WAA12 (1 1/8 oz) wads.
I am considering buying 1000 1x fired GC hulls locally, so here is my question:

Page 33 of the Lyman manual shows 2 Rem hulls - the STS and a "Rem plastic w/ plastic basewad".
Are the GC's considered to be the same as the STS on this page, or are they the plastic w/ plastic hull?
Searching here says the GC and STS hulls are identical for loading purposes.
Just wondering what the Rem plastic w/ plastic hulls is.
Thanks for the site. More silly questions to follow...
 
The STS and Gun Club shells have the same internal geometry and you can absolutely use the same reloading data for both. I frequently load both at the same session, and you can't see any difference in the final product.

I have never used any Rem shells with a separate base wad.
 
eastsidewa said:
Just wondering what the Rem plastic w/ plastic hulls is.
Basically, this is any Rem hull that's not a unibody. Some of the high-brass hunting loads, the original Premiers, and other various Rem hulls have a separate basewad.

As you've already correctly concluded, your Gun Clubs load with the STS data, as they are unibodies.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies and confirmation.
This hobby seems to have a few more curves than mettalic loading.
When my neighbor found out I was going to try SS loading, he gave me another 600.
I just have to take him out this fall on a few bird trips.
His loader came with a lead charge bar / powder bushings, but the shot and powder bottles are labled steel.
Any issues there?

Image
 
No issues with the bottles, but insure that the bars are Red, any black bars are for steel, I think. Also you might want to verify with a scale that the bars and bushings that you got have not been altered to deliver more than you expect. Bushing charts are famous for being nothing but a ball park estimate.
Most experienced reloaders have found that when using a 600, the results are more consistent, if you resize. deprime and reprime as a seperate operation.
 
Shoot2reload said:
the original Premiers....have a separate basewad.
Huh? None that I ever saw. There were some 1970s era Gun Clubs with separate basewads. They were black plastic with a very whimpy pressed something basewad. They used a 57* or 69* primer, and probably had a six-point crimp.
 
Keystone-

I just dug around to see if I still had some, but they're either stashed away or more likely they've all been shot & discarded. As I recall, they had the classic Remington-Peters headstamp, smooth-sided bluish-green color and yellow plastic basewad.
 
Please get a scale to weigh your powder and shot charges. This is a very serious suggestion. Remember it is your face, eyes and hands near that receiver. Once you over come the original anxiety of feeling you have to be absolutely perfect you will get along fine.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I am up to a grand total of 5 shells loaded :D
I have 3 scales due to pistol/revolver loading the last 20 yrs.
Still playing around with the powder bushings. My "dummy" rds (fired hull with spent primer intact) have been through the powder/shot station many times while weighing charges.
 
Thanks for the pic, I snagged that one big time!
 
Shoot2reload said:
Now I want to know what they were! :?
That is a pre-Premier Remington 28, probably the last variation of a two-piece hull used for nearly 25 years. They started with fiber basewads, fiber or felt wads, and smaller primers (*69 or *57). After they settled on 209 sized primers, plastic basewads, and Power Pistons, there were still minor cosmetic changes to the shade, translucency, and flexibility of the plastic.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts