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Chief4

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Are most of the 'Y' guns stocked long? Mine is 14 1/2" LOP and it catches several time going into the shoulder if I don't thrust it out just a bit. May have to take off 1/4-3/8" .
Good thing they make them a little long.
Anyone in S.W. Missouri do stock fitting?
 
Hi Chief

Yes, Y's have a long LOP, both of mine were just shy of 15" :shock:

I did cut mine and add Kick Eez recoil pads for a comfortable 14 3/8" LOP for me. Here are a few pics of my 20ga stock being cut on my table saw.
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Any competent smith can do the job for you. My Kick Eez pads were $40 each at Cabelas so I don't know what a Smith will charge you, but I'm guessing around a $100 give or take, including the pad.
 
My 20ga stock cut perfectly flat, but I had to slightly sand my 12's stock after cutting to get it flat.

In order to keep the factory pitch, I placed the end of the stock against the blade before cutting, and then matched the angle on my miter gauge, it was a 7 degree setting. Still, I think I ended up with more pitch than before, as I see a little more of the rib than I used to, but since I installed, "higher", than factory sight beads, I think it balanced out as they both hit well when I shoot them.
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Also, make sure when you lay your stock down that it's square to the table. You may have to shim it, or, tilt the blade to match the angle. Thankfully, both my stocks laid flat.
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I made a sacrificial, (crosscut sled), using a thin sheet of wood under the stock to protect it from dragging across the table, and a backer board attached to my miter gauge to reduce tearout from the cut. Also, be sure to wrap your stock with tape to reduce the possibility of tearout from the cross grain cut.
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Drill the pad holes after cutting. Center your pad, mark and drill one of the holes, put in a screw, then mark and drill the 2nd hole.
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The pads will overhang quite a bit before sanding them down.
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Take a scribe, and mark the base of your pad all the way around the contour of the stock so you have a line to follow when removing the bulk of the overhang. I don't have any photo's yet of the sanding operation as I have only sanded my 20ga pad, and still need to do the 12. Here is the finished 20ga pad.
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When you get close, install the pad and keep a couple of layers of tape on the stock, and sand the pad while on the stock to get the heel and toe, (top & bottom edges), of the stock's angle's correct. When you get close enough to start contacting the tape, (be VERY CAREFUL here so you don't go through the layers of tape and gouge the stock with the sander), stop, remove the pad, and finish it out by hand with 320 grit sandpaper and a light application of oil. I did it this way because I do not have a pad sanding jig.

Take care and let us know how it turns out :D 8)
 
That will set it off. That's one thing I always notice about the Y gun sitting in the rack among the others flavors at sporting clays course. How do you plan to do that, meaning are there generic caps out there? Makes me wonder if those $1500 Special Ls have a grip cap???

ROBinGA

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I don't know a lot about the Special Lux edition Y, never seen one in person, but it does look good in the photo's. I can't tell from it's pic's if it has grip cap's or not.

I found some cap's that look like they will work pretty well at Tombstone and Midway. I got my stock spacers from Midway.

http://www.tombstonegrips.com/mm5/merch ... _Code=Caps
http://www.midwayusa.com/find?&newcateg ... ionid=9530

The sizes vary quite a bit so I need to carefully measure the Y's grip cap area, and try to get some cap's close enough to fill the area without going over the edges.

The spacers can be ground to match the cap itself so oversized is OK for them.

I will post photo's afterwards 8)
 
DogWontHUNT said:
Nice post Y-hound! How long did it take you for that work?
Nice transitions in your pictures.
Thanks DWH :D

It went pretty quickly after I actually started the work, but, never having done it before, I was nervous, so I had to think about it for quite a while before actually taking on the task.

I did some research and reading before hand, trying to get comfortable with the idea of cutting my stock, and grinding down a pad.

However, it turned out really well, and I would not hesitate to do another pad install now 8)

I use photo bucket for posting my pic's, it works quite well.
 
The stock has a 3/4" hole running from the pad to the reciever for the stock bolt. You can wrap some cut to length, 3/4" steel rod, and insert it into the hole for a little bit of extra weight.
 
I always considered a good LOP to be going from the top crook of your elbow and your finger easily reaches the trigger. Is this a correct assumption?
 
Y-Hound said:
Yes, that is a good starting place to find out your LOP :D
I am not so sure about that. A good person to ask on length of pull would be Rollin Oswald. It might be a place to start, but I do not think it is the best way to determine it. RB {hs#
 
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