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jonnyo55

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello to all. I found a really nice old Ithaca Model 37 (12 ga.) at the fun show last weekend, and am conflicted as to what to do with it. It's a 349,xxx s/n, which indicates 1952 production, and is in excellent all-original condition...perhaps 98% blue. So far, so good...the problem, if you could call it that, is that it's got a 30" full choke barrel. Not a problem in and of itself, but far too long and tightly choked for my taste/uses. I'm not a waterfowl hunter, nor do I shoot trap (though I may end up frequenting the skeet range)...just looking for a nice, well-proportioned home defense/ occasional pheasant or grouse gun. The collector in me recoils (no pun intended) at the thought of altering such a fine piece, but they aren't all that scarce, and I'm definitely in it right. Ideally, I'd like to cut it back to 24" or 25"...that would, of course, leave it as a cylinder bore. Would that be too open a choke for the occasional hunt? What was the shortest non-riot barrel offered when it was new? I'd like to at least modify it to a factory barrel length. I think the shortest sporting barrel offered was 26"...at least that was the case in '56, according to that year's "Shooters Bible". The other alternative would be to find an old-style (pre-s/n 855k) barrel that's already been cut and have it fitted/headspaced, but matching the finish, etc. might be a problem (and then there's the cost involved...) What's the collective wisdom here? How difficult IS adapting a second barrel to these early guns? Does anybody have a "donor" barrel that they'd part with? Any ideas?
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
The plot thickens! When I went to (routinely, I thought) clean the bore, I noticed a 'shadow' about halfway down the barrel; needless to say, it's a ring...a very slight ring, almost completely unnoticeable from the exterior, but a ring nonetheless. I'm assuming that, as the barrel is somewhat compromised, that less barrel (and certainly less, or, better, NO choke) is a good thing...
 
The answer is to leave that one alone and buy another one. The pre 855,000 M37's aren't worth the cost of rebarreling, and they don't need rebarreled. A very slight ring bulge, halfway down the barrel isn't something I'd be worried about at all. It's a goodern, or else that stuck wad would have blown her up! That old Ithaca will kill birds a lot father away than you can hit them with that full choke, using lead shot, and it can't be improved by cutting down the barrel. If you do choose to cut it down to 26", then you'll still have a very usuable shotgun for ranges out to thirty to thirty five yards. The best compromise would be to leave the barrel at 30" and have the choke reamed out to about .715 constriction (light modified) as a compromise between a tight pattern that can kill out to sixty yards and a wide open gun that's better for skeet.

But what I do is just buy another one. You'll get addicted to them, I swear.:)

Welcome to shotgunworld. We really do try to be friendly around here.
 
I would cut it to whatever length you desire and have choke tubes installed. Best of both worlds. If drop in barrels were available I would likely go that route, because 30" full is okay for some things, but since they aren't I would definitely want something shorter and open.
 
Another good choice would be to send it to Polychoke and have a Polychoke installed at whatever length you want the barrel. It depreciates the gun, but the gun's not worth much anyway.

Another way to add choke tubes is to send the gun to Mike Orlen and have him put a sleeve on the barrel so that the gun can handle Winchoke/Invector/Mossberg standard choke tubes. This also depreciates the gun.

I am always opposed to having thin wall choke tubes put in old shotguns. They work, but it's a bad thing to do to your barrel. Those thin tubes won't handle steel shot, and they leave the muzzle area thin where it's easily damaged or the choke tubes stripped out. Others disagree with me, but I'd either Polychoke it or have it sleeved for standard choke tubes if I was going to spend that kind of money on the gun.

Having the existing choke reamed out to light modified is cheap, and you could then shoot small steel shot. Choke tubes are overated, in my opinion. I leave the IC or Light Mod tubes in all my guns nearly all the time.
 
I have Polychokes on guns that are 50 years old.

I also have Poly IIs on guns less than a year old.

Polychoke has resurrected quite a few guns with amputated/damaged barrels.

I love them and use them. Pretty they ain't. But most of the guns introduced within the past few years are ugly as sin anyway. Guns are tools and anything that improves their performance is good in my book.
 
In this case, the cheapest way is probably the best way. Send the barrel (only) to Mike Orlen and get him to open the choke to IC or LtMod. There isn't much difference between IC and LM anyway, and either will be fine for your intended uses. Leave the length alone - you will soon learn to prefer long barrels - you will shoot better with a long barrel than a short one, because it will swing smoother.

Mike Orlen won't charge much for the work, he will get it back to you quick, and sending only the barrel means it does not need to be shipped as a "firearm". Mike can also put your mind at ease by giving you his expert opinion on whether it is safe to shoot the barrel with that ring bulge.
 
SuperXOne said:
Another good choice would be to send it to Polychoke and have a Polychoke installed at whatever length you want the barrel. It depreciates the gun, but the gun's not worth much anyway.

Another way to add choke tubes is to send the gun to Mike Orlen and have him put a sleeve on the barrel so that the gun can handle Winchoke/Invector/Mossberg standard choke tubes. This also depreciates the gun.

I am always opposed to having thin wall choke tubes put in old shotguns. They work, but it's a bad thing to do to your barrel. Those thin tubes won't handle steel shot, and they leave the muzzle area thin where it's easily damaged or the choke tubes stripped out. Others disagree with me, but I'd either Polychoke it or have it sleeved for standard choke tubes if I was going to spend that kind of money on the gun.

Having the existing choke reamed out to light modified is cheap, and you could then shoot small steel shot. Choke tubes are overated, in my opinion. I leave the IC or Light Mod tubes in all my guns nearly all the time.
Poly chokes are the best :) I have one for my mossberg never going back tried trulocks and am not a big fan of chokes so gonna get my A5 A poly choke
 
I also vote to send it to mike and open the barrel. If you really must cut it then just ship it to mike and have him install choke tubes, its only a few more bucks then the reaming and then the cost of chokes.

CYL will be great for HD and Skeet. It will be good for grouse in the woods too.
 
I too have an older 37 with a full choke (49-ish) and have often thought about shortening the barrel and adding choke tubes. The older Ithaca's full chokes were extremely tight and this is the go to gun when the birds are in the stratosphere. I know this is heresy to some but the guns value is in it's usefulness, it will never be a true collectors piece,, not to say that I don't love my 37,, it's a great gun.. . So I recommend getting the tubes,, let us know how it worked out and maybe I'll send mine some day..
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks, guys...you've been a big help. I've pretty much decided to cut 'er back...might eventually add a Poly choke; they WERE en vogue back when she left the factory!

My next question deals with the mechanics of cutting the barrel. As a full time student, I'd like to leave as little money as possible in the pocket of the local gunsmith. Accordingly, I've heard that one can cut the barrel oneself using a tubing cutter. I'm a pretty accomplished basement gunsmith, so have confidence in my abilities, but are there any downsides to this technique?
 
I had Mr. Orlen install threads for thin wall choke tubes in my 1950's, 30" full choke Model 37. The barrel was cut back to 27 inches. Before I had the work done the gun was useless except for turkey hunting. I purchased an extra-full turkey choke and an improved cylinder. Now I have a better turkey gun as well as usable upland gun. Not suitable for steel shot which is fine with me.

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I go with the people that say go with the Poly Choke.
Even if you have it cut and threaded for choke tubes get a Poly Choke ll then and you will not have to buy a bunch of choke tubes and carry a wrench.
Its like having nine choke tubes in one you can go from X Full to Cylinder Bore with just a few clicks.
My two Ithaca model 37 Deluxe Ventilated Rib Models in 12 and 20 gauge that I bought new in 1967 both wear Poly Choke Ventilated style.
My Remington 1100s, 1187 Premiers and my 870 Wingmasters all wear Poly Choke ll Ventilated Style.
You either love them or hate them and I like the way they look.
Nothing to me is more ugly than extended choke tubes on a shotgun.
Each to their own, that what makes the world go round.
I only use screw in choke tubes on my side x side and over and under shotguns which I don't use that much.
I love the semiautos or pumps.
Good Luck with your Ithaca 37 you will love it great shotgun and since it is made before 1975 you can pump fire, slang term (SLAM FIRE) it.
Fred
 
I have a poly-choke on a synthetic stocked 2010 BPS. I love that gun. It patterns great too. They are a great company to deal with and will do the work in a timely manner. Is poly-choke it.
 
Not to disparage those that have the original Polychokes, but if one wants to add one to an existing gun, it would be crazy not to go with threading the barrel and adding a Polychoke II.

The original Polychoke, permanently installed, will drastically cut any re-sale value, should you ever want to sell the gun.

The Polychoke II will let you switch to threaded chokes if yo desire I believe.

Personally, I like flush chokes and extended chokes for a variety of reasons. I'd either go that route or with a Polychoke II.

If an older Ithaca is choked Mod or less, I'd leave it the way it was. If it is choked full, and not a dedicated turkey gun, I'd have it opened up to LM or MOD in a heartbeat, or have it threaded for choke tubes.

Mine are 28" MOD, so I'm happy with them exactly as they are.
 
I had the barrel on my 1950 vintage cut down to 22" and had chokes installed 5 years ago. Cost me $150. It is now my favourite grouse gun. I also installed a synthetic stock to replaced the cracked factory one.

Go for it and don't look back. Did the same with my dad's 870 wingmaster.
 
aaronberls said:
With a poly choke, is it age appropriate for that year gun? I think it would be "normal" to see a poly choke on a gun that old.
:arrow: "age appropriate" :roll:
When was 5-6 years old my dad used a old j.c.higgens bolt action 12 gauge with a poly choke on it! I turned 67 last December......................so I'd say it's more then "age appropriate". :mrgreen:
 
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