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361 - 380 of 571 Posts
Rudolph31 said:
FN made Auto-5s imported to the US had short chambers until 1947. The change was later in Other Markets. I believe Remington always used 2 3/4" chambers throughout production.
I believe that is correct as far as the American Browning is concerned. My American Browning A5 16ga made in Sept. 1941 is marked "shells 2 3/4". That isn't surprising, the American Browning is essentially a Remington Model 11 which was chambered for 2 3/4" 16 gauge shells.
 
Hello
New to the forum. years ago i picked up a battered A5 serial number 5580 at a yard sale and I finally dragged it out today. Thanks to this forum this is what ive learned so far

-It has the 1903 safety and receiver
-Serial number puts it at 1904 status so that doesnt match up

my initial questions are

-are later parts interchangeable
-what is the ballpark value of these so I dont spend $400 in parts for a $75 shotgun (this is my normal MO but im trying to grow as a person....)

Thanks for any info
 
Many later parts fit! Clean the bore, check it has the bronze friction piece and its annular spring and is set up for light loads - if it has try a couple of 28 gram (1 oz cartridges thru' it and if it works it will not cost you $40 to have a nice bit of useable kit.... ABOVE ALL DO NOT SPOIL THE PATINA OF AGE!
 
Needs are
-action spring tube and all the components, all I have are the spring and plunger and the spring looks bad.
-old style tang screw without scallops for lock screw
- new threads for tang screw to thread into (not sure on that one yet, seems small for a helicoil but???)

Wants are
-new friction assembly, this is where it gets a bit questionable, It looks as though the whole thing has been set up wrong with the friction ring going on the assembly last in between the barrel and the bronze friction piece, then fired alot so the metal to metal contact has damaged the barrel cone that the bronze friction piece was supposed to fit and on the other side beat the friction piece taper up. I have reshaped the bronze piece but cant do alot for the barrel so im not sure how things are going to work.
 
nhjohnny1.
Recutting the barrel ring is a nice challenge.... Here is a thought! In the auto business there are cutters for doing valve seats at different angles. Get a new Steel friction ring measure the angle and get a valve seat cutter for that angle. Or if you have access to a lathe first carefully hand dress the the ring filing out the worst dents and make a mandrill out of steel with the correct angle, harden it and use valve grinding paste to finish the barrel ring taper.
In extremis simply put a new steel friction ring with its flat back against the knackered barrel ring. That way you will squeeze the bronze friction piece exactly as the barrel ring's taper is intended to do the job... And do get a new bronze friction piece - they are very cheap.
As an ex-Diesel Submarine Engineer Officer who has run a 1943 built 'T Class' submarine I'd soon have your gun working.....
 
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