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JamieC

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got out to the range to test a bunch of buckshot loads I recently loaded. 1st, WinAA hull, 18gr High Gun, HCD21 wad, 9 pellets #0 buck, 3x3, 1143fps, 8" spread @ 10 yards. 2nd, Top Gun hull, 29gr Longshot, BP1253 wad, 10 pellets #0 buck, 2x5, 1/8" cork under shot, 1112fps, 8" spread @ 10 yards. 3rd, Top Gun hull, 30gr Longshot, BP1253 wad, 10 pellets #0 buck, 1/8" cork under shot, 1145fps, 9" spread @ 10 yards. 4th, Top Gun hull, 29gr Longshot, BP1253 wad, 12 pellets #0 buck, 2x6, 1174fps, 8" spread @ 10yards. 5th, Cheddite hull/primer, 29gr Longshot, BP1253 wad, 12 pellets #0 buck, 1245fps, 4" spread, (except 1 flyer makes it 8") @ 10 yards. I wanted to shoot some factory loads just for comparison BUT...nailed one of the rods holding the overhead 'shades', split the back sensor in a couple of pieces, testing over, (managed to put it all back together when I got home, should be ok). This is fun! Depending on what speeds I'll get with the factory loads, (9 pellet Flite Control, 9 pellet 'brown box' cheap buckshot), I may, (probably), try adding some powder to some of my loads. Not too sure how 'good' my velocities are out of an 18.5" barrel. I have read that Longshot doesn't like to be loaded light, my 12 pellet load with 29gr went faster than the 10 pellet load, both in the Top Gun hulls. The new Cheddite hulls had more 'pop' when shooting, the speeds backed that up, hopefully someone with more experience can explain this to me. Plus, the pattern, using the Cheddite hulls/primers, looked damn near like Federal Flite Control patterns, except for 1 pellet 'flyer'. Definitely have to do a few more of those.
 
... I wanted to shoot some factory loads just for comparison BUT...nailed one of the rods holding the overhead 'shades', split the back sensor in a couple of pieces, testing over, (managed to put it all back together when I got home, should be ok).
Precisely my fear as to chronographing shotshells. By the time you back up enough to stop reading failures due to muzzle blast, you are far enough back to potentially hit the chronograph itself on occasion. Consider yourself lucky that you didn't direct hit the electronics box. I've considered firing off of a shooting bench with my shotgun clamped into a bench vice to keep it shooting straight down the middle of the twin shades if I get a chronograph.

When it's cloudy overhead you can remove the shades and just shoot over the chronograph box.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Precisely my fear as to chronographing shotshells. By the time you back up enough to stop reading failures due to muzzle blast, you are far enough back to potentially hit the chronograph itself on occasion. Consider yourself lucky that you didn't direct hit the electronics box. I've considered firing off of a shooting bench with my shotgun clamped into a bench vice to keep it shooting straight down the middle of the twin shades if I get a chronograph.

When it's cloudy overhead you can remove the shades and just shoot over the chronograph box.
Yeah, I thought shooting through a chronograph with a handgun had it's difficulties, trying it with a shotgun is another thing! 5 yards seems to work...most of the time. I wasn't sure how the pieces went back together, found out the company that made the F1 Chrony is no longer in business. Took the front sensor apart to see how all the bits go back together.
 
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The one pellet flyer. Think I saw an explanation for it once, but now can't remember what it was. Whatever the case, it is a thing. Above was 8 pellets of 00 buck stacked in 2s in an old Rem Power Piston wad. That 8th pellet may have gone thru the tape......can't say for sure........but don't think so.

As to the chrony........this is how I do it..........that is about 12 to 15 feet away......shades removed......cloudy day. Fired about 16 inches or so over the top. #7 was a slug load.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I had it set up 4-5 yards away, 2 weeks ago, shot about a dozen shots through it, no problem. Yesterday, set up the same way, almost 20 shots before I nailed one of the rods. Kinda knew it right away, got a little sloppy aiming. I don't think it's that big of a problem. *hit happens sometime, usually when one gets lazy. Pretty sure it will work fine, nothing actually broke, just split the sensor open on the seams. I want to shoot several factory loads through it to get a good comparison to my loads. I added some powder to my target loads, want to see how they do also.
 
I think the one pellet flyer issue is from the very last pellet/very bottom pellet still left in the shot cup/ wad as the wad begins to yaw in flight….at least with Federal Flite Control Wad.

Fast forward to about the 1 minute 54 second mark:


The FCW begins to yaw. Then as all the pellets are clear of the FCW (or rather the FCW falls far enough behind all the pellets) that yaw turns into a flat spin until it goes through the paper target.

That conventional wad in the Winchester Ranger buckshot ammo seems to separate a whole lot sooner from the pellets. Then it tumbles every which way until it hits the target.
 
I think the one pellet flyer issue is from the very last pellet/very bottom pellet still left in the shot cup/ wad as the wad begins to yaw in flight….at least with Federal Flite Control Wad.

Fast forward to about the 1 minute 54 second mark:


The FCW begins to yaw. Then as all the pellets are clear of the FCW (or rather the FCW falls far enough behind all the pellets) that yaw turns into a flat spin until it goes through the paper target.

That conventional wad in the Winchester Ranger buckshot ammo seems to separate a whole lot sooner from the pellets. Then it tumbles every which way until it hits the target.
There was a problem with the 8 pellet "00B" Flite Control Tactical loads encountered about a couple of years back with the gas seal pressed inward.
This interfered with the performance of the rear braking wad design.

 
Yup. They pattern good enough at 10-15 yards for "2 and 4 legged animals"...... My hallway and sidewalk isn't that long and I set my hunting chair closer to the bait pile.

And I didn't spend 3x the money in time, powder, components, and shipping.

Maybe there's something I'm not understanding, but reloading buckshot isn't that satisfying. Now, the 0.690" round balls I ordered, that's a different story, you don't find those on the shelf at Walmart. I made a box for this fall to throw at some whitetail. They throw downrange like garbage, so I'll have to adjust my hunting chair.
 
Discussion starter · #20 · (Edited)
I for one am pretty satisfied with the buckshot loads I've put together. #9 shot, 18gr High Gun, Win hull, 1141fps, plenty fast for me. Just for comparison, Federal #8 Target load, 1200fps on the box, on my chrono, 1077fps. I loaded Win Super X hulls, 9 #0 buck, 19gr High Gun, 1239fps, (these patterned real nice, a little under 5" @ 10 yards, just under 6" @ 15 yards!). Winchester #1 buck listed on the box, 1250fps, I got 1181fps. The 'brown box' Olin 9 pellet buck came in at 1281fps, these had some 'pop' to them, so did the #1 buck from Winchester and my 12 pellet #0 buck did too. Federal 9 pellet 00 buck Flite Control were relatively soft shooting, 1094fps, 1145fps is listed on the box. My 9 pellet #0, 19gr High Gun loads were relatively soft shooting also, VERY satisfied with these. The 12 #0 pellet loads in the Cheddite hulls had some 'pop' to them, didn't pattern as well as the 9 pellet High Gun loads but I can easily put all 12 pellets into a silhouette @ 15 yards, pretty good payload. I keep my 870 loaded with the standard #1 buck for HD, thinking I might have to load with the 9 pellet High Gun loads once I get a bunch loaded. Any of these loads are fine for HD, (except the Flite Control, no need for it inside my house). If I'm really pissed, I'll use the 12 pellet #0 buck loads!
 
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