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scotner

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Local shop has the above mentioned Citori. The gun looks good, opens and closes tight. Lever offset to the right. 30" barrels. I made a casual inspection during my first trip then went home and did some homework. I went back today for another look and maybe to make an offer. I pulled the forearm off, no weight attached. I asked the shop owner what comes with the gun and if he has the weights. He brought out the Browning case which contained a few assorted chokes, two choke wrenches, triggers, the owners manual and a few smaller items (sight inserts, allen wrenches, etc). I asked again about the weights. He said that he had checked and the weight was not under the forearm or in the case. He was not aware of the barrel weight that should have been included. While researching the gun I read that the weights are Tungsten and very expensive. A Google search turned up a set of them at Numrich. The forearm weight is $626. The right and left halves of the barrel weight are $240 and $250 respectively so over $1100 replacement cost. Asking price on the gun is $2500. I was hoping to get that down a bit but now I wonder whether it would be a good idea to pursue this at all or put the money toward a different model. I plan to shoot skeet with it and we have a wobble trap on our range. I haven't seen that run in about 20 years but others at the range say they have shot it in the last few weeks. It boils down to I won't miss the weights for my use but it will be an issue if/when I decide to sell the gun or if it is sold as part of my estate. Any opinions on what the gun should be worth under the circumstances?
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I have a Pro Comp and I don’t think you’ll miss the weight that sits outside the forearm. It just makes the gun way too barrel-heavy. Now, the weight that is covered by the forearm you absolutely want. It’s what compensates for the weight of sub-gauge tubes. Personally, I would not buy the gun without enough price reduction to replace that weight.
 
Good looking gun and if it fits, buy the damn thing. If you need more weight under the forend, forum member @Skeet_Man makes weights that should cost you under $100. He's made several for me throughout the years and his work is flawless. Good luck and good shooting, Rey
You cannot put enough of skeet-mans weights on to equal the Browning weight, unless you want the weights to run the full length of the barrel, which I would consider unsightly.
To the OP, if you buy the gun and decide to add sub gauge tubes, do NOT pay to have trigger work done. It’s already been done. The trigger piston spring is so light, you can pull the trigger twice in quick succession and both hammers will drop. It will feel like it has mechanical triggers.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
work whatever deal you can on the price, but don’t worry about the next guy. if you like the gun buy it
I understand and agree but "I'm going to keep this gun forever" has a different meaning to a 75 year old than it does to a 25 year old. I am just trying to determine the value of the gun as is.

I have a Pro Comp and I don’t think you’ll miss the weight that sits outside the forearm. It just makes the gun way too barrel-heavy. Now, the weight that is covered by the forearm you absolutely want. It’s what compensates for the weight of sub-gauge tubes. Personally, I would not buy the gun without enough price reduction to replace that weight.
The forearm weight maintains the handling characteristics of the gun when shooting with or without tubes. If you do not have tubes would you still keep the weight in place assuming that the gun balances properly for you without it? Either way, price adjustment in light of the cost of the missing components is my main concern right now. Availability of the parts is also of interest but not a primary concern because I am not sure that I would have to purchase either one at this time.

You cannot put enough of skeet-mans weights on to equal the Browning weight, unless you want the weights to run the full length of the barrel, which I would consider unsightly.
To the OP, if you buy the gun and decide to add sub gauge tubes, do NOT pay to have trigger work done. It’s already been done. The trigger piston spring is so light, you can pull the trigger twice in quick succession and both hammers will drop. It will feel like it has mechanical triggers.
Thanks for the tip on trigger work. I am aware of that. I read everything I could find about this gun. I saw a thread (not sure whether it was here or elsewhere) discussing whether you could buy a standard gun and build it to the equivalent of this gun for less money. Trigger modification for shooting sub calibers was one of the costs that would have to be considered. I would really be interested to compare the trigger on this gun to my 425 Sporting.
 
I understand and agree but "I'm going to keep this gun forever" has a different meaning to a 75 year old than it does to a 25 year old. I am just trying to determine the value of the gun as is.


The forearm weight maintains the handling characteristics of the gun when shooting with or without tubes. If you do not have tubes would you still keep the weight in place assuming that the gun balances properly for you without it? Either way, price adjustment in light of the cost of the missing components is my main concern right now. Availability of the parts is also of interest but not a primary concern because I am not sure that I would have to purchase either one at this time.


Thanks for the tip on trigger work. I am aware of that. I read everything I could find about this gun. I saw a thread (not sure whether it was here or elsewhere) discussing whether you could buy a standard gun and build it to the equivalent of this gun for less money. Trigger modification for shooting sub calibers was one of the costs that would have to be considered. I would really be interested to compare the trigger on this gun to my 425 Sporting.
The weight under the forearm only comes into play when you have subgauge tubes. When the tubes are in, the gun balances differently than without. So, you install the weight to maintain a balance like when the tubes are installed. The gun balances pretty well without any weight. As to the trigger, it will be very similar to your 425.
 
I once had one of those. Nice gun, but kicked me in 12 gauge and I transitioned to a K80.
The idea was too use the weights for 12 gauge to approximate the weight of the barrels with sub gauge tube sets for skeet. If you want the gun specifically for skeet that may be a consideration.
If you're thinking sporting clays, you will not want the weights most likely.
Also, to take the weights on and off was a bit of a pain. I just ended up just shooting 20 gauge in the 12 gauge events.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I once had one of those. Nice gun, but kicked me in 12 gauge and I transitioned to a K80.
The idea was too use the weights for 12 gauge to approximate the weight of the barrels with sub gauge tube sets for skeet. If you want the gun specifically for skeet that may be a consideration.
If you're thinking sporting clays, you will not want the weights most likely.
Also, to take the weights on and off was a bit of a pain. I just ended up just shooting 20 gauge in the 12 gauge events.
Thanks for that info. I thought that this gun would be heavy enough and combined with the recoil mitigation it may be a relatively mild shooter. I shot a 3200 for years before switching to 20 gauge. I had a 525 20 ga and sold it. Then bought this 425 back in the Fall. Much softer shooting than 12 gauge even in a gun as heavy as the 3200 and I did not see a big difference in my results in skeet. I would like to shoot 5 stand and maybe try sporting clays once in a while. I thought 12 gauge would be better for that. I have been looking online at the Beretta A400 Xcel Sporting with the Kickoff system but they are high buck and I never have really liked SA target guns.
 
Thanks for that info. I thought that this gun would be heavy enough and combined with the recoil mitigation it may be a relatively mild shooter. I shot a 3200 for years before switching to 20 gauge. I had a 525 20 ga and sold it. Then bought this 425 back in the Fall. Much softer shooting than 12 gauge even in a gun as heavy as the 3200 and I did not see a big difference in my results in skeet. I would like to shoot 5 stand and maybe try sporting clays once in a while. I thought 12 gauge would be better for that. I have been looking online at the Beretta A400 Xcel Sporting with the Kickoff system but they are high buck and I never have really liked SA target guns.
The Pro Comp IS a soft shooting gun. It has a Gracoil recoil reducer, after all. Anyone who shot mine remarked at the light recoil. I will go so far as to say felt recoil in the Pro Comp is no greater than my Kolar with its ISIS device.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The Pro Comp IS a soft shooting gun. It has a Gracoil recoil reducer, after all. Anyone who shot mine remarked at the light recoil. I will go so far as to say felt recoil in the Pro Comp is no greater than my Kolar with its ISIS device.
Thanks. That is what I was thinking. I must have misread one of the comments.
 
Withtout the weights, the gun is an XS Sporting w/ a Gracoil an adjustable comb. $2500 is fair for the gun, you'd be over $3k setting up something similar with a CX White.
Actually, it's not the same.as an XS Skeet or.XS.Sporting save the weights. The Pro Comp has an inertia block with a lead slug and a super light trigger piston spring, to negate the need for aftermarket trigger work.
 
Actually, it's not the same.as an XS Skeet or.XS.Sporting save the weights. The Pro Comp has an inertia block with a lead slug and a super light trigger piston spring, to negate the need for aftermarket trigger work.
But that's only an asset if OP is planning on tubing the gun, which I've not seen any indication of so far.

And if he is, buying a gun without tubes and then tubing it isn't a financially wise move anyways, you're always better off buying a gun already tubed as you're paying full $ if you have it tubed yourself, but you're paying somewhere b/w 0 and $1k extra on a gun that's already tubed.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
But that's only an asset if OP is planning on tubing the gun, which I've not seen any indication of so far.

And if he is, buying a gun without tubes and then tubing it isn't a financially wise move anyways, you're always better off buying a gun already tubed as you're paying full $ if you have it tubed yourself, but you're paying somewhere b/w 0 and $1k extra on a gun that's already tubed.
No intention of tubing the gun. I already have a 425 for when I want to shoot 20 gauge. No interest in 28 or 410.
 
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