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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could anyone give me a quick rundown on the evolution of the 28 gauge 1100s, from the 1100LW model up to the newer Sporting 28s?

Do the older parts generally interchange with the newer ones?

I'm especially interested in barrels. Have all 1100 28 gauge guns always had the short barrel tang?
 

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Since 1969 the only substantive differences are the rollmarking, wood, barrel length, and chokes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Virginian said:
Since 1969 the only substantive differences are the rollmarking, wood, barrel length, and chokes.
Thank you Virginian.

From what I can tell by looking at pics online, it appears that every 28 ga and .410 I have seen have the short tang while 20s can go either way.
 

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All 28s have the ejector riveted into the receiver, a la the 870, and have a similar barrel design to the 870 as a consequence. When the first LW 20 Model 1100s were introduced, based on the 28 gauge size receiver, they utilized the same set up.
Per Wayne Leek, some LW 20s experienced issues, which led to the development of the LT 20 with the longer barrel tang with the ejector button like the 12 gauge, and the scalloped ejection port. I have personally never seen an LW 20 with an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Virginian said:
All 28s have the ejector riveted into the receiver, a la the 870, and have a similar barrel design to the 870 as a consequence. When the first LW 20 Model 1100s were introduced, based on the 28 gauge size receiver, they utilized the same set up.
Per Wayne Leek, some LW 20s experienced issues, which led to the development of the LT 20 with the longer barrel tang with the ejector button like the 12 gauge, and the scalloped ejection port. I have personally never seen an LW 20 with an issue.
I'm guessing I don't want to know what the fix would be if one were to break the riveted in ejector, if a fix even exists.
 

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It isn't that difficult really.
1) New parts and rivets and refinish the receiver.
2) Pry out pieces judiciously, squeeze or trim rivets, install new pieces, then re-rivet or drill and tap the rivets and secure with small machine screws.
Converted several 2-3/4" Wingmasters to 3" using new ejector and spring and method 2 back in the day.
 
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